Harey

Yeah I am still sorting some things out. As Tao said lots more to try. We also just discovered the front injector is causing a boost leak so that will need to get fixed before any more testing. I will have more results next thursday. We have a few more wastegate settings to try as well as dropping the exhaust as its suspected to be a bit restrictive. That 279rwkw is actually at only 15.8psi so plenty left in it. Its a bit different to Tao's demo car cause all these things are sorted and you get a direct comparison.

Thanks for your experience, only difference is you are running a turbo with a 3" inlet so using the standard intake would be an obvious reduction in diameter (2.5"). Also it just wouldnt fit.

Thanks Tao, I know your advice and I do value it. I dont see the difference between: pod > 3" afm > 3" pipe to 2.5" turbo inlet pod > 3" afm > 3" pipe to 2.5" pipe to 2.5" turbo inlet The only difference is that the standard pipe reduces to 2.5" (same size as turbo inlet) 8 cm earlier. I understand completely if the turbo inlet is bigger than 2.5" but I just cant see the logic yet. If I lost less than 10rwkw I would accept that as my engine bay looks completely factory with a pod (my intercooler is also very hard to spot). Oh well we will find out next thursday if it will max out.

You could just get a 4" -> 3" reducer straight off the turbo then a 3" metal intake pipe to the afm. Just do it all in black. Not sure about squeezing the stock intake pipe over the 2.75" inlet. I think the general rule is try to ensure that nothing in your intake is smaller than the turbo inlet if possible. Reducing from 2.75" to 2.5" might be a bit of a restriction. Here are a few of my lessons: - First thing do not buy an autobarn88 intake pipe for your R34 GTT as it does not fit with an afm, I had to return mine. - Make sure your blow off valve does return to the intake. I tried blocking my bov off and also using a 1 way valve but Trent reckons the R34 ecu is too smart and is hard to tune around. Even after it was tuned around I still had some popping with gear changes etc. So ensure this is plumbed back to the intake if you do go the custom intake route. I reverted back to the standard intake but I only have a 2.5" inlet on my turbo (of course as its a stock comp cover). Are you goals 280rwkw and as stock looking as possible or 300rwkw and a little consideration for stock but not too worried? That will answer your question I think. From my other thread in this section, it doesnt look like many people have gone past 280rwkw on the factory intake pipe, even if it is sleeved. I hope to do so next week.

First decision is will you be running the afm in the intake? If you are it makes the 4" a bit of an overkill if you are going to reduce it down to 3" for the afm anyway. The main advantage of a surge slotted compressor housing is that it will resist compressor surge. All you would need temporarily is a 45 degree bend with a 4" -> 3" reducer to drive it down to the shop to get one made up. Have a serious think about the afm location because if you can move it to the cooler piping you can then run a big 4" intake. I am guessing from your turbo choice your not too worried about stock appearance anyway.

Thanks guys, i am running a hiflow with the standard comp cover so standard 2.5" intake, so I cant see the value in anything bigger than the factory intake pipe. Tao from Hypergear made 302rwkw using the same turbo but with a 3" metal intake pipe so I am just curious to hear some other real world results. I am hoping for 290rwkw.

Hi All, I am wondering what is the most power someone has made through a standard RB25 intake pipe? (it can be sleeved with pipe) Mine is currently making 279rwkw and i am wondering if it has much left in it. I am running an apexi pod filter, it can be either airbox or pod as long as its running through the standard intake pipe. Any help much appreciated.

Interesting, whats the most power anyone has made running this sleeved factory intake? I have a pod filter though. Hoping someone has got close to 300rwkw.

Hi All, After my recent upgrades I am selling my standard R34 GTT Injectors, Fuel Pump and Air Flow Meter. Injectors $80ono Fuel Pump $40ono AFM $40ono Located in Melbourne. Jeff 0400648813 Have pics but cant get them off my phone at the moment. Happy to email them, everything is in great condition.

Agree full throttle at 13psi is still going to cause you issues in the wet.

I have a similar problem except I have a big 0.82 exhaust housing that i know can hold 18psi flat. I am thinking mine could be restrictive catback exhaust, I am getting it tested today.

R34 GT-T RB25DET Neo Hypergear ATR43G3 hi flow, standard nissan compressor housing with 0.82 exhaust housing. 3" Turbo back exhaust Custom 3" to 2.5" intake with Apexi Pod Filter Trust Turnflow Intercooler Z32 AFM Nismo Fuel Pump Deatschworks 800cc injectors Nistune BP Ultimate 98 279.5rwkw @ 15.8psi, couldnt get the turbo to hold 17psi to redline. Should be some more top end power once we sort that out. HUGE thanks to Trent from Status Tuning and Tao from Hypergear!! The amount of time they both spent helping sort out issues such as twisting intake pipe, changing spark plug gaps, trying different actuator settings is much appreciated.

So you would prefer 230rwkw compared to your current 320rwkw? Yeah right

What a strange post. It makes a big difference if its fulltime 4wd or not. In the car world, all wheel drive means all wheels are being powered all the time (not necessarily equally). So no its not the same shit. Do you understand what lag means? Questioning how long it takes to get from 2500rpm to 4500rpm does not change that there is a delay in response ie lag. If this response is acceptable to you then fantastic, enjoy it. I too dont mind a bit of lag but I dont argue that its not laggy. Not sure how many people running GTRS's on an RB26 wouldnt have a tune??

Guys 300rwhp is roughly equal to 225rwkw. That is the rough limit of the standard injectors with the standard fuel regulator. Troy is asking for 250rwkw ie 330-340rwhp.

Your tuner would have had to adjust the fuelling to change from 98 to E85. It wouldnt make the power it is now if hadnt been done. If the timing is a little low thats great for a track day, extra security. The low boost of 15psi is also good for the track day extra security. Give it hell on thursday and you know in the back of your mind there is plenty left in it.

No, the 20-40kw gains are on the same boost level. E85 allows more timing and/or boost due to its higher octane.

More confused that some people strongly recommend 10W40 and others 10W60. Seems like a big difference to me!

You do realise he owns/works for a turbo company Hypergear and that car is a demo vehicle...

Lots of people on this forum seem to be using this oil in there RB's, including some pretty serious setups. The oil thing has me sooo confused.

Exactly, I wouldnt think 740cc injectors would be holding you back! Joeyjoey... has 320rwkw with E85 on 555cc injectors (pretty sure anyway). What duty cycle are the injectors running at?

Someone said before that the KU36s were sticky right out of the shop, geeze mine are deadly when cold. Have to take care in the wet. Cold and wet is just suicidal haha. Although warm and dry is good

What does it sound/feel like when it hits map sensor protection? I am running a bigger turbo with 18psi but still on my standard turbo 10psi tune so am being very careful until its tuned. I gave it a little bit and it made a bit of a 'pop' noise. Was a little worried but everything feels fine afterwards.

Thats pretty keen changing them every 5,000km on a stock car!

Here is the answer to the thread. Its the turbo. Thread closed.