adam 32

you can also use hydroflouric acid. this also works to get water-marks off windows. its very toxic stuff but just spray on and wash off...

you will see a slight performance gain as he bigger wheels of the VG30 will flow more air at the given pressure as opposed to the RB20 turbo. it wont be much though...

yeh i went round to the mechanics just then lifters so may need to change to redline oil or something anyway not as bad as i thought

when i get home tonight i might jack it upo and check the bolts etc. hopefully will be something obvious thanks for all your help! adam

hmm ok well ill get it looked at next week i think. its the auto salon this weekend and everyones very busy ive got an HKS exhaust manifold and dont want to wreck it, should i try to drive the car as little as possible?

so not exhaust leak exhaust manifold gasket.... out of interest, why would one of these blow? excessive heat?

well exhaust leaks normally get worse with heat so im guessing its not that would a blown gasket stop making noise when the engine gets warm?

shouldnt lifter noises always be there as well? they wouldnt quieten once the engine is heated up...?

definately a tick tick noise ok thanks. someone suggested it could be a crack in the exhaust manifold. how am i going to be able to dinstinguish between the exhaust gasket and a crack in the manifold?

zahos: this is what it sounds like i think its not from the block at all but from around the turbo... how much did that cost to replace? if not repaired immediately can this cause any engine damage?

is this bad? ie long term engine damage? is there anything i should be doing about this problem or just ignore it?

what about the injectors? how/why do they make that noise and only when cold?

i know i always post the dumbest problem, and not wanting to dissapoint, heres another!! the car is making a strange ticking sound when cold, the ticking gets faster with more revs and you cant hear it on when the turbo starts to spool (4000, i dont like reving the cold enigne too much though) its coming from the left hand side of the engine bay, so possibly turbo. it goes away completely when the engine warms up, any ideas? thanks everyone! adam

shlt... i used the clutch factory in welshpool for my clutch. it still works fine 2 months later... i didnt choose them, per4mance turbos used them as it was at that time the engine was being replaced... fingers crossed nothing happens to my car but i think ill be going to auto-clutch. have heard great things about them. cheers guys!!

yeh ive got one on my car, it does the job... its not very loud and doesnt attract too much attention as you can drive around under 3000rpm without it making a sound.

its not so much hp, more boost pressure stock ones leak when theres too much boost pressure running through the inlet pipes, the SSQ should handle 25psi at least

they are a cheap way of stopping the car from running rich due to bigger pump and increased fuel rail pressure. personally i dont think you need one, there are better ways of management such as remap, AFC, or full replacement ECU

the choo choo choo sound you are referring to is air not being released by the BOV due to low boost instead the air passes back through the turbo, the sound you hear is air being 'chopped' by the turbo blades and exiting through the filter. it has nothing to do with the BOV my recommendation is HKS SSQ and if you put it on the intercooler pipe after the intercooler core then you will only need 1!

im asking for a friend with a 300zx and a fried clutch! is there anywhere in perth who will do reconditioned clutches with heavier pressure plates for a reasonable price?? thanks everyone! adam

yep standard but to be sure you can get them flow-tested. i think stock ones are 270cc

thats the same turbo as ive got on an RB20 im using a HKS external wastegate and its on HKS exhaust manifolds. full boost is around 4000rpm so not TOO bad. it does come on boost fairly hard though! im currently making 230rwhp in a very badly tuned state. thats with 12-13psi and a bosch 910 fuel pump hopefully with a remap and 1 bar should be pushing the 200rwkw mark!! if you can get it cheap and dont mind a bit of lag then yes its a good turbo. just make sure you sort out your management and fuel system as well, ive blown one engine already due to too much boost and not enough fuel!!! good luck with the turbo/car! adam

the new blue screen AFC has 8 points of tuning, and a blue screen this is a small black box with 5 points of adjustment

ive wrapped the sections of cooler pipes near the pod with thermal wrap. keeps them cool and doesnt make the box fitting a bitch!

but they look funny surely the comical value will outweigh any 'explosions' we may encounter :uh-huh:

dont get an RAC battery, they suck!! sounds like a battery problem in which case youre not going to need the worlds greatest electrician (macka will do). as chris said take it down to kmart or the local garage, they will be able to sort u out