Col-GTSX

Ska i had black and i went back.... after having 3 black cars it was rasier to pick another colour rather than wash it like 4 times a week. Also i saw a set of those door trims in Japan but couldnt bring em back as they didnt fit in the suitcase and they wanted like $130 to ship em separate. I thought this was mad cause i paid like $20 for em in the first place. On the back of mine they were stamped "Option garage" I bought mine second hand. Now their in a garbage can at the airport near Toyko.

Thats a "fully sick" (thrope said so) 180B.... Love the idea.... All you need is a baby on board sign and you are done.

Well there is only 2 things you can do guys... 1. Grow up (not having a go at any of you, i was refering to age and maby driving history) or 2. Get a common car

???? not sure.... Ill try it.... LOL

Yeah.... that el do...

Silver R33 S2 at BP Albany Creek this morning... Forgot the number plate already.... Had a website sticker on the rear back quarter...

To clairfy... You get to set the scramble time & boost setting up or down There is no hold button function.

Sorry roy... forgot to mention... You set the scramble to a higher setting for a set amount of time. You can also make it go to a lower setting if you wish. The unit also had a fail setting. If the boost goes over a limit setting then it will go to a lower boost setting for a set amount of time. EG. I run 10psi I have boost fail set to 11psi (this will flash and beep if 11 is reached) Then it will run 7psi for the next minute. This has only happened once when the ID-III read hose got crimped by a zip tie. This caused it to over boost and react slowly. All of a sudden i had 12+psi and i was rocketting down the road then there was a beep beep beep and the boost dropped off to stock and i scratched my head. Pulled over and looked at the boost graph and it all made sence.

So i thought you were changing from auto to manual at the same time... sorry... I found that the r32 manual box was shorter than the r31 auto box so had to get a custom one made up for it.The brakes you have are legal however i found the 4 pot calipers were a vast improvement. The mod it self was not a problem as all. Just forgot about the 5 stud wheels... LOL I had the car up on stands after a few hours of work we realised we needed a set of r32 gts-t wheels.... Also then we had to upgrade the rear hubs also so i could run the same wheels front and rear.... I didnt budget a set of wheels into this mod and it pushed the bank account a little.

I have done this conversion twice now to my old lines. 1. It needs a few little minor tweeks (like brackets to mount power steering pump bracket) You will also have to swap over with a silver top wiring harness, all wires will be fine. You only have to splice into the a/c for the compressor. 2. NO you will need to custom fabricate a new tail shaft 3. Its perfectlly legal to use the brakes you already got 4. ???? Guessing 220rwkw

I still stand by my Blitz ID-III as the best ive used so far. I now have the optional power meter as well and with both put together its an awsome combo.

Copper sheet is widely used because of its unique properties. Copper sheet is one of the best conductors of electricity after Silver. Copper is more often used due to its lower cost. Copper sheet is a very good conductor of heat. Copper sheet can be shaped into any form easily as it does not crack when hammered, stamped, forged or pressed. Copper sheet is resistant to corrosion and does not rust. Copper sheet is environmental friendly - it can be recycled. History of Copper The name Copper is derived from Cuprum, the Roman name for Cyprian Metal. Copper is probably the first metal to be used by mankind. Copper is a soft and reddish-orange metal. It is one of the best conductors of heat and electricity. The alloys Brass and Bronze are formed when Copper is combined with alloying elements such as tin, aluminum, silicon or beryllium. When copper is exposed to moist air containing carbon-dioxide, a protective greenish film known as Patina is formed. This film prevents the surface of the copper material from further corrosion. But platinum lasts longer under temp and electron passage. In english they will fire more consistantly for longer.

Its a normal screw with a special head. You can buy them from Autobarn. The screws and heads.

I dont have hicas so im good..... HAHAHAHAHA

Happy B'Day Jay for yesterday.... Sorry im late...

use torque screws

Re gapped the plugs to 0.9mm I am now experiencing a little more power. Cold nights in Brisbane help this also.... Had another long chat today about heat guides on NGL spark plugs.... After taking all the varibles into account i personally believe that everyone has a different opinion. HAHAHAHA Thats the safe and most correct responce. But i will continue to use 5/6's in my car unless future mods change the needs for spark.

I agree with the faults thart can occur i just think its crazy that some would run as high as 8... Thats just wrong... My R33 is mild and has the usual bits and pieces everyone has plus a few extras so 5's are great for day to day round Brisbane. I dont race it and dont do power runs in this car. Its just a little booster so 5's are good....

Oh....

Richard dont get me wrong im a nice guy... But im gonna believe the NGK rep as to which plugs to use.... Look at their website and punch in a gts-t 33 and you will fint 5 is the recomended heat rating... Higher heat ratings (colder plugs) will have trouble in hotter climates.... The hotter the intake the hotter the plugs you need... If we lived in temps between -15 and 20 degres then 7 rated plugs would be normal..... Here in humid Brisbane it very HOT HOT HOT.... I have an intake temp monitor and on a stock intercooler i have seen temps hit 80C (thats bad) with 6/7 heat plugs at these temps the plugs wouldnt do anything, it would miss and carry on. If one or two plugs were to fail at 5000rpm at 80C under full load the fuel would pure out the exhaust. The O2 sensor would read rich as buggery and the ECU would lean it out as far as possible...... Keep doing this and you can understand what would happen.... Cheers Col

I saw mud this morning... No front number plate and i was day dreaming.... AGAIN I did wave but i left it a littel late as i was dreaming man.... The car is looking good with the eye lids and looks realy slick when its raining.... I was on my way home after working 30 hours straight....

No leave it there.. Apexi put it there so i reckon theres a reason.....

anything around the 90-110 is fine.... as ferni said on the track 125... this is normal for track use.... Remember its not water so its not going to boil at 100... LOL

Just the one fuel filter needs replacing in the engine bay... Make sure you get the right one not a universal type.

Most autoelec's do... LOL Its always good practice to do bearings when servicing an alt... Shop policy here otherwise we will sell the reg and you do it. The labour on an r34 would have been the reason for the $200 part of the job. Ripping an alt down and working on it will take $50 worth of parts and about 20 minutes if nothing too serious. Its the pulling this off to get to that and then putting it all back together which is where most of your money went. But $269 is good....