Col-GTSX

NOTE: You will also need to cut a slight amount of the fuel line to fit it nicelly.... So it doesent chaff....

GOTO the diy forum and look at the pictures on my install... You will see i cut the bottom of the bracket off and bent it slightlly. Mine now sits at the same height as the pickup and dont have to worry about running out of fuel.... Please use stainless clamps and not zip ties as they can slip and contact the power against the fuel tank.... (<<<BANG>>>) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79865

I have the newer HKS gear and its fine.... Didnt gain anything at all... Just got a few more km's per tank and smoothed out the top end.... No jerky action inbetween 6-7000k.... AND more importantlly i got FLAMES>>>>> LOL

It will be the AFM... with out doubt.... Clean the aac valve works 2% of the time...

I have done both turbos suggested... I recomend both... but it all come down to your budget...

If you aim for 250rwkw you can half that bill (7k easy) diy.... Thats what i did... 300kw is over rated lol

Go the fc... I found the SAFC to do the job however the difference inbetween price/effort and outcome. The fc does it everytime. I mean its worth saving the bickies to go the fc for future mods and cost saving in fuel has paid the difference within 6 months...

ohohoh me first 1. $550 2. High flow turbo, 3" turbo back w/ hi flow cat, HKS timing gear, 040 fuel pump, 6 x S15 injectors, Z32 Afm, Blitz id-III, fuel pressure reg, HKS SSQV. 3. APC 4. About 4 hours 5. Very happy with the tune, had to take back once after timing gear was done to re-adjust but this was only $100 cause it was only a half and hour to re-do. NOTE: This was first done 2 years ago. So price is old and now could be more or less... I dont have timeto shop around too much so i ask others where and how much. Reason i ask is that i fryed by pfc due to a bad jump start so i am back in the market for a new one so ive ordered the d version so i can go to a MAP sensor and ditch the afm. So i need to get it done from stractch again. APC is far from home now and id like someone closer if possible. Please post results and price from all areas of AUST as this is now a tech thread for others to be able to go to the right place first time. Cheers Col

This is a guide to help people make an edcuated desision on how much a PFC costs to tune and where they can get it done. I ask for each entry to include the following info. 1. COST 2. Mods you have done (mechanical mods not stereo mods) 3. Where u did it 4. How long it took 5. Comments (was happy was not happy and why)

R32 GTR at Haverys Aspley also R33 GTS-T at mobile Aspley (already forgot the plates, i know u saw me)... Yes i was the tool in the bright yellow line

I would have to suggest breaking down for parts man. Your quite unlucky cause the damage to the turbo and block says you may as well do the whole engine. Also the damage to the chassis is very worrying... I have seen the damage caused by a shattered flywheel however i dont think this has happened in you case otherwise you would have shatttered the bell housing and the starter motor will be in pieces. I think you will be best off getting rid of it to a wreaker as a whole car... You might be lucky to get 8.5-9k... Cause from the list you put up as damaged i see 7-8g's worth of diy repairs (would not to the chassis myself) but yeah 12g for the car and 7-8k for the repair work and its a 20k gtr. Like every other r32 gtr round in the 89 vintage. Sorry but this is the way it is. I saw a 93 R32 GTR with mods and 63k on the clock go for 13k FOB. By the time to bring it back and comply you are looking at a nice new grade 3.5 GTR for 18-19g's.

3 days to go and its at $50.... All r32 owners here is your chance to buy a heavy timing belt for cheap cheap as they say...

Well your welcome to come and join SAU QLD anytime you want man. Ive been a long time reader of the japan section of the forums and envy your location. But nothing beats Brisbane as home.

I feel left out again.... No happy birthday for me..... HAPPY BIRTHDAY THO.... WOW 34 thats like half past OLD.... LOL Nah your not OLD till you cant pee by your self....

I guess you want the link yer... LOL (too many rum's already and its only 7pm) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

Selling it on ebay now due to unpaying buyer... Dont miss out its got to go.... Current bid is $1.... Get in there and buy it please....

To keep the budget down you will need to do allot of the work yourself (like all of it). I dont wanta pay on your idea as your looking for help so ill help. (Personally i wouldnt bother and id go to forced induction straight away... but) OK. Strip the head and send it in for a blueprint. Reset the valve springs with heavy duty springs (XR springs are no different you know (i used to work for ford))... I would spend all the money on ecu and head work. You will be best of going with a whole new ecu (this will cost big money due to tuning cost)... But if you need it to be N/a for the challange ro insurance reasons then i will continue. Larger injectors ie. from an xr6t and a custom cold air intake with basic k&n pod. New throttle body for the plenium. Infact id replace that crapy standard plenium with an after market jobbie. Then use a largish 100mm+ throttle body. Time to get another drink.... one sec.....OK im back... My neighbour has an AuIII XR8 and we just finished the capa charger and ecu install. It was a pain in the asre even with my 4 years with ford this was like re-inventing the wheel so if i get side tracked again its cause im a little un-sure... :confused: Anyway... If its auto then have it serviced to change up later and harder (any auto shop can help with this) If its manual with i think you said it was then go to a brass button clutch (custom jobbie again). The button clutch is the most effecient clutch there is around thats why most rotaries us it. Unfortunatlly its a bastard to hill start and get heavy on the leg.... Anyway also look at you diff ratio's. One of the cheapest way to increase 0-100 time is to tinker with the final drive. You will lose a chunk of top speed but who cares.... It how fast you get to the speed limit that matters.... So cost is up to you but id start with the diff and clutch for safety reasons.... If you were me id sell it and buy something less common.... Like an R33... LOL No really pick up a HR31 thats where i started.... their worth 10g's in good condition in turbo format.... Standard all you need is a bleed valve ($30-100) and your beating most cars again.....

Go the VOLKS.... Yeah you want a set for a GTR i assume.... Cheapest way to get some is either find them for sale in the forums or contact a parts only importer who can buy them direct foir you. Also might want to check out the sponcers in your state as im sure you have a wheel shops as a sponcer and they offer discounts... My 2c

Gotta say all of em look sweet as..... and i would love to get one but dont have the funds for some reason. I thought my credit car was good???? But im voting for the ferrari as i have always had a passion for them and will own one in the next 10 years.... Quote my words. "One day i will own a F360 spider" as its the most affordable good looking one...

Yeah you need to take the top cap off to put the dust covers on... My understanding is that beilstein have a 5 year warranty on the top seal for extra re-assurance. I wont own the car for 5 years so that warranty is enough for me... Its will get stolen before then... LOL

Dude you gotta read the rulz... There is a whole section "for sale" Please read the rules in there as you need to include details of the car and price....

Yeah pretty dumb some of em...

Yeah gord... I reckon the guy in japan who used to own the car has picked up the nismo shocks and springs from a wreaked car from a snow'y area where they use salt on the roads to prevent ice. So they were completelly stuffed. As for the 040 i cut the bottom off the standard bracket and bent the bracket slightly it does sit at the same height as the standard pumps pickup. So it will run out of fuel at the same time as the standard one would. What did you think of the bracket and install of the fpr??? Oh and i just relized i made a huge mistake when fitting the cam gear. I have not moved the cam at all. All i did was tighten the cam belt. So next weekend ill be pulling her apart again... GREAT.... Oh yeah the dust covers... Didnt bother... Fulcrum had a set but the belstein shocks are designed not to use them. So i didnt.

Thats got to be harsh on the stock internals....

I do... MY 0-100 time on the g-tech was 4.8 seconds.... My 1/4 mile time was 13.3 seconds... First time at willowbank raceway i got 13.7 and by the third run i had 13.23 @101 So i reckon the g-tech is pretty acurate (not as good as the real thing of course but its a great indication....