Murray_Calavera

Still post pictures though, I'd like to see the setup

Yep. Dyno before and after, done at a place that DIDNT sell you the ECU chip/tweak/pluginmagicbox. Or 1/4 mile time slips before and after. The dragstrip never lies.

I run radium everything, rail, reg, 2 x fuel pulse dampers in the rail... I can confirm the quality is on point!

Ok this is the final, final update (hopefully). So as I had a V1 Haltech IC7, my internal pullup resistor built into the dash for AVI 4 was only 1,000 Ohm. Using this resistor, I had a working voltage range of 0 volts full to 0.0X empty (X as the value fluctuates too much). Haltech updated their V2 IC7 to use a 240 Ohm resistor, the closest I could get was 220 Ohm so I used that. This gave me a working voltage range of 0 volts full to 1.6 volts empty. A huge improvement and I could have left it like this. I thought that going to a 100 Ohm resistor might double my voltage range to about 0 - 3 V, so I gave that a shot. It did improve it again, 0 volts full to 2.5 volts empty with the 100 Ohm resistor. I'm happy with this setup, the voltages are quite stable at this resolution. And my dash communication extension cable came in so I've got that mounted on the dash now

So on my previous attempt to drain the tank, I must have had those 9 litres in the other saddle tank. Turns out if the car is driven normally and the venturi is working as intended, this setup can run the car empty. I was trying to run the car low to calibrate my fuel level gauge and in the end ran the tank down to 5 litres remaining. I was driving around relatively quickly and got zero fuel surge. So in the end I am thoroughly impressed with how well this setup works. I can't believe that it's possible to have 5 litres in the tank and not experience any fuel surge!

You might be interested in having a look at these - https://rennstand.com/ https://jackpointjackstands.com/

This would look fantastic in there https://www.peracing.com.au/products/bosch-motorsport-abs-m5-kit-clubsport

I'd watch a couple of youtube videos of people bending the pinch welds back. It won't be perfect so at least you'll have an idea about what level of repair you can expect and what tooling is involved.

Just driving around town normally, which involves being on boost as often as possible without driving like a dick, I get around 10L/100KM on 98. I'm running a Haltech pro plug in, ID1050X injectors, 60mm turbo. Fuel map is what you'd expect to find with one difference, the very very low load areas (think like 1% or 2% open throttle) I run those parts of the map quite lean, around 16AFR. Oh and the idle is set to about 600 rpm. To answer your question, about 30% saved on fuel?

You can always hit up the local wreckers. I grabbed a good 2nd hand stock fan setup from Skyline spares a few years back now, can't remember how much it was so it couldn't have been that expensive, everything has been perfect so far.

holy shit, I didn't even know that was a thing =/

I've got a quickjack as well, I use their pinch weld blocks stacked on top of one of their regular blocks. Has been working well for years now. Quickjack have recently released a new model, the "TL" series which raises the car another 3 inches. Doesn't look like quickjack Australia is stocking it yet, but if you go with this option it might be worth waiting for it to be available here. On a side note with quickjacks, if you do a bit of googling you'll find quite a few quality control issues with them. Personally, I've had a proportioning valve fail (so the lift would raise unevenly) and an o-ring fail so it leaked quite badly from the power unit. Most people seem to have issues with the lines leaking but mine have been fine. Having said that, both issues were resolved under warranty without too much drama and it's been fine for years now without issue.

Nice, that's a good outcome.

If your concerned, why not take the block back to the machinist that originally did the bore/hone? They would be able to advise if the hone needs to be redone.

If the chattering does bother you, maybe have a look into WPC treatment. (personally I like a little bit of chatter lol) https://motoiq.com/special-treatment-part-1-all-you-wanted-to-know-about-wpc/3/#:~:text=WPC works wonders on LSD,maintain speed while drifting better. https://wpctreatment.com/about.htm https://www.facebook.com/wpctreatment/photos/a.173652742667143/716767121689033/?type=3

I would go to a quality paint supply store and have them match the paint in person. Just having the paint code might not be exactly what your after if your paint has faded etc. I don't know where you are located but I've found VG Auto Paints & Tools in Girraween to be really good.

I think he is referring to the shock load that occurs on launch. Big sticky drag radials, engine on limiter/2 step, then bam, huge shock load through the drivetrain on launch.

Do you have an aftermarket ECU? If so I don't see how anyone would consider getting anything other then a dash that talks to the ECU over CAN in this day and age.

I use one of these, the picture quality is good provided there is light and you hold the camera steady. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/384797712333?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1zz0Be6vuSQaRZ5rCDMTA6Q23&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=384797712333&targetid=&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9069120&poi=&campaignid=15984321586&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300814&merchantid=7364522&gclid=CjwKCAjwwL6aBhBlEiwADycBIK5EbdejstPcx13b5IOGikCmoij2n0jYOPk0drs-nJ9vXj9pswi9VhoCRPMQAvD_BwE

It would help if the pictures you post are actually of your car.

Started with the easiest power steering fix first, popped a shim in the solenoid. I'm happy with the level of power steering assistance with that setup so I'm calling it all done!

Hi all, I was hoping there was someone out there running individual wheel speed sensors who wouldn't mind posting photos of there setup. In the back of my mind I always thought it would be easy to setup. Bracket off the diff housing, read the abs ring. Bracket off the front knuckle, read the back of the wheel studs.... All seemed like such a good plan until I read the sensor requirements on the spec sheet for the hall effect sensor. I'm looking for some insight, is anyone happy to share photos of their setup? These are the specs I was referring too - https://raceworks.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/LR-RWORKS-DATA-HAL-501.pdf

I wired the Haltech GPS signal output into the 2P / VSS ecu input - I think it's pin 16 on connector B. In the ECU manager software, in the main setup inputs, I changed the following - Calibration speed to 60 KPH and the pulses per KM to 5000 pulses. I didn't touch anything else and the speed was 100% accurate when measured against my phones GPS speed on Google maps. Shame you can't remember how you did your SGI box. I was driving around trying all of the different outputs on it, I tried a calibration similar to what your showing there... nothing. Speedo never budged when driving

I originally bought the SGI box so I would have a speed signal to the ECU. I was pretty confident that the Pro plug in couldn't read the raw gearbox speed signal and I was planning to use the SGI box to convert the raw gearbox signal to a square wave signal that the ECU could read. Yeah I'm surprised it doesn't come up more often when people are talking about deleting their dash. While I've been googling the issue, seems like the most common way it comes up is when people are deleting their HICAS ECU. I'm hoping the solution is something as simple as, send constant power to the rack.

I haven't been looking forward to this job but I can't put it off forever... Here is where I currently sit. Handbrake, parking lights, blinkers, high beam and fuel level signal all straight into the dash. Alternator exciter module - wired to switched 12V, charge light and my dash battery LED. This is the module I used - https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/alternator-excitor-led-warning-signal-module Haltech GPS module - wired to switched 12V, ground and the factory ECU speed signal input. Haltech Pro plug in calibration, in the vehicle speed, calibration speed 60KPH, 5000 pulses per KM. The calibration was perfect right off the bat. So, I originally planned to use the Dakota Digital SGI-100BT: Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface, to get my speed signal (the same way SLVRBAKSLPZ did) but I failed the idiot test and couldn't work out how to do it. This is what I tried - Into the SGI box I wired, switched 12V, ground, the VSS signal wire (pin 15) into the input and I tried every output into the ECU speed signal input. The SGI box lets you send a test signal, when I did this the speedo moved and I thought I was on a winner. When I started driving however, there was never a speed reading. Playing with every output and setting within the device, I couldn't get a speed output. Clearly I wired it up wrong... The instructions are far from helpful and appear to be written for someone that doesn't need instruction. Have a look, I'll post them here. So now the only thing that needs sorting is my power steering. The power steering is now permanently heavy which is a bit of a pain. If anyone has any ideas about how to tackle the power steering, please let me know. If SLVRBAKSLPZ wants to post up how he wired up and setup the SGI box, that would be amazing too.