Murray_Calavera

If you can control the flow rate of the fuel pump, you can supply the required amount of fuel and limit the amount that needs to be returned by the fuel pressure regulator. I think the idea from Joshuaho96 was that you could keep the stock fuel pressure regulator by keeping the flow rate to something that it can handle. Another benefit might be that the fuel temperatures are kept lower. If you were say sitting idle in traffic with your fuel pump flowing full tilt, a lot of fuel will being pumped on an around the world trip through the engine bay, being heated and returning to the tank. So slowly the temperature of the fuel creeps up as more and more of these trips are completed. Having said all that, my fuel pump flows 525LPH and I have it setup to run full tilt all the time. I haven't had any issues and I've been doing this for many years. To save space in the engine bay I've got one of these which goes on the rail in the stock location. I don't think I'll ever outgrow it either, it can handle over 1,200LPH. http://www.radiumauto.com/DMR-Direct-Mount-Regulator-P1951.aspx

So even though I got the original blower motor working again, the ticking noise was a bit much. I took a chance on the patrol blower motor, works perfectly. The only difference is the connector location, however the connector reaches no problem. So a brand new blower motor for around half the cost of a used item. $45.30 well spent! https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133102428683 Please ignore the google search tags: Heater Fan Blower Motor For Nissan Patrol GU Y61 1997-2012 Air-conditioning Cabin - R33 skyline blower motor

If skylines are actually selling for what they are asking for on carsales, now might be the only time you can actually get what your car is worth. Very strong chance it would be the best R33 gtst in all of Aus on the market if you put it on carsales now

Please please please strongly consider picking up an IC7 dash rather then using the old school CAN gauge. That CAN gauge is not cheap and is very limited in it's display. The dash can display/output so much more plus it is sexy, makes coffee and cures cancer. I'm sure it also has other superpowers I haven't discovered yet.

This should help too.

The hoses can be bought in different sizes, just buy the correct size hose.

Just some more data from this setup as I wanted to change from e85 back to 98. Drove until there was about 15 litres left in the tank. Parked next to the fuel bowser and used the fuel pump to empty the tank (I'm glad the petrol station staff were cool, I checked with them that this was OK before hogging the bowser). Once the fuel pump stopped flowing fuel this was the result - 56 litres to fill the tank. Mixture went from e80 to e10. Slightly disappointed it couldn't draw up the last 9 or so litres in the tank, but it is what it is.

That sounds good too. I'm glad there are options for when the time comes to pull the trigger on the ECU upgrade and DBW setup.

Nismo 740cc side feed injectors up for sale. Less then 5000 km's on them. The injectors were getting very close to maxed at the power level shown (flirting with a bit over 90% duty cycle if my memory is correct). I've tuned stock, these Nismo's and ID1050X injectors now, I'm happy to discuss these in detail before a purchase is made if you like. I'm also happy to share my Haltech maps using these injectors. Price is $650 and location is Brisbane.

Best sounding? Serious speakers? Seeing as no budget was mentioned, have a look at these - https://focalaustralia.com.au/product/ultima-3-way-components/ Don't forget the amps to drive them!

From the Nankang website - Optimum operating window 71-104 degrees celsius Optimum camber settings between -1.0 to -3.0 degrees HOT Pressure settings <800kg 23 - 27.5psi 800-1000kg 24 - 32psi 1,000-1,400kg 27.5 - 37psi 1,400kg> 34 - 42psi If you are having handling issues, please see the table below which may resolve your issue, remember to do this in small increments at a time To reduce Over steer Reduce rear pressures or increase front pressures To increase Over steer Increase rear pressures or reduce front pressures To reduce Under steer Reduce front pressures or increase rear pressures To increase Under steer Increase front pressures or reduce rear pressures

No, the only thing stolen was the car. There are many different ways to have a car transferred into your name WITHOUT using the rego papers your talking about. Obviously I'm not going to mention how it is done, I don't need this to be some Fraud 101 guide. What I am saying is, everything can look on paper to be perfect, but really it isn't. Trust your instincts and use common sense.

No, the paperwork is real. In my scenario, all of the paperwork was real. What I'm saying is this: Car is towed away/stolen. Real paperwork gets lodged, title of car is transferred into thiefs name. Thief sells car, provides real paperwork to the buyer. Buyer lodges real paperwork transferring the car into their name. Previous owner of the car discovers their car has been stolen. Now there are 2 "owners" for the same car.

Oh I forgot to add, I'm not trying to scare you Silviaz. Everything you said sounds like a good plan. Once you have done all of that, trust your instincts. If something feels wrong, don't be scared to walk away and find another car. Just having a car in your name with the associated paperwork doesn't legally mean the ownership is 100% yours and cannot be disputed.

I'm going to give you the worst case, super duper rare, but still happens scenario. The car is parked up long term, maybe the owner is overseas then got stuck in covid isolation issues. In any case, the car has been sitting for months.... Someone notices the sitting car and casually tows it away to their mate who owns a car yard. The car yard processes paperwork and poof! The person who stole the car is now the "owner" on paper. They now have registration paperwork that is in their name and by all accounts is the same as everyone else's legitimate paperwork... Our new friend sells the car ASAP to someone who has no idea the car was previously stolen. I mean, they have rego paperwork in their name, can prove their ID at the time of the sale, everything looks good right? Then our friend finally manages to get back into Australia... hang on, where's my car? And now, the car has 2 legal owners. 2 people have paid for the car and both believe they are the owner. Welcome to local court to dispute the ownership. Please file all paperwork, see below. https://www.localcourt.nsw.gov.au/content/dam/dcj/ctsd/localcourt/documents/practice-notes/25622pdfAnnexure_D_-_Pre-trial_Review_Sheet.pdf

Is there any reason you can't just pick up a factory one from a wrecker?

What do you think each one of these things do to the car so that it makes the claimed power?

Well I'm excited! https://outsidergarage.com/products/complete-rb-r32-dbw-adapter-kits?variant=40968923971745 Complete RB DBW Adapter Kits for OEM Nissan RB20/RB25 (coming soon) Nice!

Hey all I'm about to mount up an ID750 fuel filter on the offside strut tower, if you can picture the stock power steering reservoir bracket, it will be like a mirror image of that with the fuel filter where the reservoir is. I expect the way it will be mounted would interfere with most forward facing plenums. As I will want an e-throttle setup in future, does anyone know of anyone running DBW on the stock RB25 intake manifold? I've seen plenty of adaptors but they all say they suit forward facing plenums only. Other then the adapter, would there be any other speed bumps with running DBW on the stock manifold?

I'm not surprised given how old these ECU's are. My Haltech pro plug in can't even do knock control. Sure its listed in the spec sheet and when you go in the software you'll find it, but it's garbage. It wasn't until the Elite ECU's that the knock control actually worked as intended (provided you also had knock ears to calibrate/verify what you were seeing in the ECU data).

What is your reason for getting a set of coilovers? If your reason was for sure 100%, "I just want to lower the car" and you don't care about, ride quality, performance on road, performance on track, etc. Yes, you could go with cheap China coilovers, they will indeed lower the car. If I was strapped for cash and wanted to lower my car, I would get custom king springs with the spring rate and drop that I want. Fit the springs yourself and keep saving up the $. Then I'd buy a set of good Koni shocks and take everything to a good suspension place that has a shock dyno. They can valve the Koni shocks to match the spring rates. When I was a young lad I did this exact process with my turbo swift, I found that custom king springs cost the exact same price as of the shelf stuff and getting the Koni's revalved was about $80 per shock. This might have been about 15 years ago now but surely it can't have gotten much more expensive then that.

They look really interesting. It's a real shame there is only one size in 17" I feel the world forcing me to get 18" wheels. It's crazy that these days some tyres smallest size is 19".

I've got a 2013 Impreza so not 100% sure if this will help you out. I've attached the workshop manual for my Impreza here. I used a cheapy OBD2 bluetooth scanner and a phone app to check the gearbox oil temp the last time I changed the oil.

I have a magic rock that keeps away tigers. I am prepared to sell you the magic rock for the bargain price of $2,000.

Aramith, unfortunately you're going to have to take our word on this. You have a large knowledge gap with regards to how engines and ECU's work. The thing on Ebay is 100% a scam. It does not do what it claims to do. The power increases your claiming with an ECU/tune alone are not possible. The power figures on a dyno can easily be manipulated by the operator, they could take your money and give you a dyno printout with that increased power figure showing. Only problem is that again, it's a scam. If you are keen to learn about how all of these things actually work, there are heaps of us here that can point you in the right direction of where you can go to learn about these things.