Murray_Calavera

I really didn't want to pull the hanger out if I didn't have to, so I haven't checked to see if the sock has fallen off. Would it be possible for the pump to be fully submerged and yet unable to supply fuel because the sock had fallen off? I can't picture why it would work with a full tank and not at half tank when in both conditions the pump is fully submerged.

Hi all, So I have an issue where the car appears to run out of fuel with half a tank left. Basically everything is perfect, then when fuel drops to about half a tank, fuel pressure rapidly drops to 0 and the car stalls. Once the tank is filled everything is 100% perfect again. This is not a fuel gauge/level sender issue, when refilling the tank to full it only took 28 litres. I had a look around inside the tank today and confirmed the fuel pump is exactly where it should be and I didn't see any other issues. My thought process now is, if the fuel pump is unable to supply fuel while being completely submerged, the fuel tank must be building a vacuum as the tank empties. Does this sound correct? I'm thinking a check valve has failed somewhere in the EVAP system that is allowing a vacuum to slowly build while the car is running. I'm thinking the next step in diagnosis is to run the car until it stalls again, then disconnect the charcoal canister at the line that connects to the fuel tank and see if that removes the vacuum. This is only a guess though so would appreciate any thoughts on this matter!

Thanks for the help everyone. I kept spraying silicon til 1.5V turned the fan over on the bench. Works perfectly in the car now. Fingers crossed the bearings don't dry out too quickly.

I'm stuck again. I can't for the life of me figure out how to pull this thing down any further to get at the bearings or brushes.

Sounds like a plan. Where should I be spraying the silicone? I'm not very familiar with electrical motors and don't know where the bearings are. Should I spray into any of the areas I've indicated?

Ah, I think I misunderstood you earlier. I bench tested the motor again putting 1.5V through it, when it didn't spin I gave it a nudge and it started spinning. When you mentioned the PCB issue, I assumed there must be an external control unit for the motor and as it still failed on the bench then I thought it wasn't a PCB issue. There might be a PCB inside, but I'm not sure how to further strip the motor down. This is only as far as I've got. I tried to gently pull the motor assembly upwards but it's pretty snuggly in there.

Thanks for doing the leg work in FAST. I'm thinking I'll just roll the $50 dice and see how I go.

Yep, its a great track. The change in elevation is really fun.

Hi all, I have an issue where my heater blower motor stopped working. I removed the blower motor (and cleaned the 30 years of filth out of it) and bench tested it by putting 12 volts through it. Worked like a champion. Tried to test it again with 1.5 volts, wouldn't turn at all. I connected it up in the car and turned the fan on. Nothing. Turned up the fan speed, nothing again regardless of the fan speed setting. However once I gave the fan a little nudge, it would spin up like a champ. All 4 fan speed settings worked once the fan was already up and running. It's just an issue of getting it to initially turn on its own. There is one other small issue though, once the fan is up and running, it makes a slight continuous tick/clicking noise in operation. So I was wondering, does anyone know if the GU Patrol heater blower motor fits the R33? Looking at photos it seems identical and they are only about $50 on ebay. Failing that, are there businesses that are able to rebuild my blower motor? I'd prefer that to picking up a second hand part and I can't find anyone that stocks new R33 blower motors.

Where did you source that little beauty?

This might be the way you can keep your .6 motor https://bulletraceengineering.com.au/shop/rb30sx/ Now it's 3.6 litre xD

There will be a heap of mechanics that have tooling to make up hard brake lines. I would bet that any workshop that specialises in older cars, say restoring old MG's, would have tooling to make up hard lines. It should be cheap and easy to get something made up for you. Having said that, I don't know anyone that has bothered to make up hard lines when there are braided lines readily available that do the same thing.

https://au.gktech.com/products/brakes/brake-lines/r32-gts-t-braided-brake-line-set Should do the trick

I'll just leave this here

The dry sump tank can be install in the engine bay, this might be some inspiration for you - https://jordanleist.com/2018/06/15/the-power-and-the-passion-an-1181rwhp-nissan-r32-gtr/

I'd love to see photos once that's done

Looks really good, do you mind putting up some photos of how it was mounted?

Number 8 sounds pretty sexy, do you know if it can start/stop logging to PC or does it only start/stop logging to onboard memory?

To be fair, I went looking for a rebuild kit for the RB25 clutch master cylinder... Couldn't find anyone that had one. So I just grabbed a new one from GKtech for $86 and figured no one sells rebuild kits for them when you can buy an entire new one for such a low price. https://au.gktech.com/products/gearbox-clutch-components/clutch-masters/hfm-clutch-master-cylinder-s14-s15-r33

Trust me mate, you've got way more important things in your life to spend your time thinking about. Both rims are 18x8 with 30 offset. Put some tyres on and forget about it.

Cars all over the world are frequently having the wheels rotated front to back to even out tyre wear. I'm thinking a front rim and rear rim is something like a right handed and left handed screwdriver. You didn't have to measure your rims, they are both 18 inches rims, 8 inches wide with a 30 offset. What were you measuring when you were trying to find discrepancies between the rims? Looks like the only thing you need to sort out is a matching set of rubber for them. But if this was just a troll post, good job mate you got me.

Nice, I haven't seen that done before. Is there an advantage of using a 4D table vs a compensation table or is it purely an ease of use thing?

Is the car still on a flex setup or is it straight e85 now? Looking at the base timing makes me feel anxious (thinking there is more timing in it from the e85 compensation table) but if that base timing is pretty much the total amount of timing then I can sleep at night again lol.

Yep, master cylinder failed about 10km from home. So it was a cheap and quick tow home. I'm becoming an old man, I'd rather just get it towed then stuff about trying to drive it without a clutch lol.

Just did a round of time attack at Lakeside, unopened RB25 making about 350KW on E85, at the end of the day I cracked the drain on the catch can and not a drop came out