MBS206

Sounds like the wires off the oil pressure sender IIRC.

I failed the HPT the first time I sat it... I forgot my glasses... Couldn't see the f**king computer screen properly so couldn't see shit. ROFL.

Quite a few times over also...

When you replace coils, on stock boost run a 1.1mm gap.

Yeah, my GPS has always read what those mobile speed test signs read. So now, factor in the over read in your speedos, PLUS the allowance we already have, and how far over is your speedo actually reading before you get pinged? Stop whinging people!

The column runs what, a 25 spline? If it's out a tooth, it's going to be 15 degrees out... not 5. 5 Degrees would be an alignment issue, most likely the car is crab walking when you drive it.

No other cylinders have coolant? Check all of your piping up around the plenum, if you've cross the TB heating system with a vac line, you'll be pumping coolant into the intake.

Sounds more like your whole wheel alignment is out.

Doing it yourself will save you around $2000+ in labour (And the markup mechanics put on parts!) I paid $330 for a 25DET VRS kit which has everything you need to lift and replace the head. I paid $560 to have my head crack and pressure tested and then fully serviced. At the same time you should do your water pump, timing belt, and all idlers. At a shop, doing everything you should do (To save you doing it within a year anyway) would probably be around $4000 I would guess (Parts for bits like water pumps, timing belts etc, plus all labour, plus rebuilding the head) But you need to find out why it popped first.

Actually, the RTA wants to lower the threshold to only 4KM/H (Thus means the threshold is currently higher) people I know in the police force, currently put the threshold at around 8KM/H. Considering at 100KM/H most cars have around a 6KM/H over read, to be busted, your speedo is over 14KM/H over the limit (IE, 124KM/H in a 110 zone!). There's a bunch of streets around me at the moment, where I've driven a few cars down that currently have mobile speed readouts. 50KM/H zone, all of these cars read either 45 or 46KM/H 80 Zone, all reading around 74/75km/h Not just one make/model, but a few! Secondly, how long do you guys stare at your speedos for? I check all mirrors and my speed in under a second. That's why they call it GLANCING. You can look and get a very quick idea of what your speed is without staring at it and doing your 6 times tables. And the only people I know of being road raged for sitting on the limit, are the dopes who aren't over taking anyone and ar ein the right hand lane, and there are others who want to break the speed limit and don't mind getting caught. Those who get rear ended are normally in the above circumstance and attempt to stop suddenly

You will find, that when they're on a running car with exhaust gas flowing, they will open at a lower pressure. Why? The exhaust gas is also exerting force onto the diaphragm through the actual gate... The R33 connected direct to the actuator should not run over 5PSi. When the solenoid activates it bleeds off some air, meaning the pressure the actuator is seeing, is lower then what is really there. IE, if it's really at 7PSi, the actuator is only seeing 5PSi still... If you give it full pressure, it'll open further, and reduce pressure until it sits back at 5PSi...

It comes down to the tune and how you drive it. My first one let rip with oil surge on a track, mixxed with an over rev when it stepped out in second gear. Well that was the initial thought. Now it appears that the thrust bearings had worn out massively allowing the crank to float and just annhilate everything. The second motor let rip with what appears to be a cracked oil pump. But this motor spent a shit load of time living life on the hard rev limiter at a motorkhana (Big turbo, very hard to get it to keep the tyres spinning at part throttle without hitting the limiter, if it didn't hit the limiter it bogged and died). If I drove these motors peacefully, I'm near on 100% sure the second one would still be together today (The first one, probably not... It was a PITA from the get go) If you can break rods, you're going well. Pistons may let go if it's not tuned properly. The biggest killer is normally oil control, get a good oil pump on there and doa winged/baffled sump especially if you plan to do ANY form of drivig events (Even if you only do one!!!)

I think really everyone should stop crying and stop speeding... I was taught to drive that in a 10 second period you should have checked all three mirrors and your speedo. EVERY 10 seconds... I managed this the whole way back and forth from Canberra the last few weekends I've been (3 hour drive) When I'm in the city, I also throw into that mix checking my blind spots once every 10 seconds... Guess what, I've only been caught speeding from being a douche before (And forgetting the road had changed speedlimits... LOL) You know why? In that 10 second period, if your car accelerates more then 5KM/H... You'll FEEL IT! SRS, you people are acting like a bunch of toddlers that have just had a lollipop taken off them!

Oh, and to give a comparison, I could have babied mine around like a grandma, but all of my Kays were driving to and from driving events and at the events. I did 2 track days on one bottom end (Well, actually 3 sessions at half pace each day) and then one texi. The other one managed to get tuned on the dyno, then make the 3rd session at a track day and everything let go.

Hey there big spender!

Would only do it when running. If it's off majorly, it'll do it by hand also.

Slappers on big turbos do NOT last long... I've broken 2 now... With a max of 1000KM on them... Pushing 1Bar (14PSi) through TD07S housings, t66 front and a t04r rear wheel. Nothing below 4000/4500RPM, then everything ramps in over 200/300RPM... Rev limited at 6600RPM. On the dyno it made "250RWKW" wheel spinning like a spastic... Using fuel consumption and AFR it would be making around 360RWKW... (69% inj duty on 880cc injectors)

I would say they're worth about half what the RTA actually wants for them.

The only people I've heard of that have reverted, haven't changed the brake pedal ratio.

I'll find out for you in regards to the alternator... I'm being lent some top secret information that should have that in it...

Andrew, I think brad makes looms for exactly what you want. Secondly, get a kmon and hook up the knock sensors so you have knock warning. Ditch the charcoal canister, just get rid of it. Like GONE! You should look at converting you brake to have no booster as well. Also my turbo mani and dump are off for you along with lines. It also looks like part of my oil issue with that turbo is oil pullin in the return just out side the block which would have popped the seals.

You sure those lil' bits of steel are going to hold that big chunka bar up for the whole rally?

Look for the person who has a phone nber called mum and ring it! It's not moniques, and Duncs and Neil so far haven't claimed to have lost it, so check through your passenger list...

Keep at that power level, and just learn to thrash it hard! No point going for more until you learn (I learnt this the hard way... now I'm changing cars!) Throw some good tyres on, and a good set of pads. Should hold up for a track day fine. I ran Project Mu HC+ pads in Shell's car, and they only had one drama, and that was when Shell and I did a stint back to back at the end of the day, and I really hammered them! And 1:15 isn't bad! About what I was managing in the stocker... And I had a ball!

In my experience, screw that! Step1: AWESOME TYRES! Step2: Sort out every ounce of the suspension first Step3: Big Brakes Step4: Big Reliable Power.