MBS206

How high do you plan for the spacer to be?

Blown cooler pipe.

+1

You want decent sized mufflers thrown on. Mid muffler, at least a 5" body on it, with fibreglass packing. Rear muffler at least a 7" body, you only want a 3" out let on it though. Fibreglass packing again. You also want them as long as possible, for both. Don't let anyone tell you it won't fit. I have photos of mine all fitted up, and running, with ZERO ground clearance issues. And REALLY quiet, and high flowing. If you need help with getting the exhaust done, PM me. And a good high flow cat.

Hey man, Not good to hear that Bezerkly has now closed. Any chance though, you could post up what things are actually needed to make this fit exactly? From what I read on another thread, it's new engine mounts, notching the cross member, gearbox mounts, and a new clutch master, plus the electrics, piping, and custom exhaust etc... Anything else you can enlighten me on?

From what I've seen, R33 VS R32 manual, = same diff ratio. This is from multiplewebsites I've read this... Also, if you're revving an R33 manual to 6500RPM, and want to get it out to that same speed as what you'd normally be at at 7000RPM, you want a 4.1 diff.

Pioneer only does it when the radio is on.

If you're blowing fuses, you've f**ked some electrics up somewhere, and hence, why it won't start.

Toffy, th eR33 RB25DET runs a 4.363 not a 4.1

The link you posted is accurate, except it gives all of it's speeds in MPH, not KMH, so you need to convert.

I can fit a decent esky in the 33, so long as I don't have sub + amp in there. If I mount the amp properly, it'll fit. But won't with amp+ sub floating... That, and I also have a rear seat to fit shit in...

R33 manuals run a 4.363:1 final drive. I think it becomes "slower" if you're running a larger turbo, as if you punch it at 2000RPM, it say might take an extra second to get into your boost range... Hence, you're slower to get moving.

If you're pulling it down, and rebuilding, don't put stock gear back in. Put in good H beam rods, good set of bearings, and some forged pistons. Then if you really want to play it "safe" stick to the same rules as have been stated above, and you should easily get 10+ years from it.

So you're saying your 4th gear (Top gear) in your auto, is a 1:1 gear? As 4th in the manuals is direct 1:1... If this is the case, you should already have lower then the 4.3:1 ratios. Also, from all my research, some of those numbers in the above table thing posted, are slightly wrong. Also, I believe it was Cubes who stuck some 3.9s into his RB30DET, and found it slower as it took longer to wind on boost. I believe he's now back on 4.363:1... You can do a search and find a very good thread with people who have actually done this, and I believe all of them have reverted back to stock diffs.

New coil packs, plus a new coil pack loom will most likely solve the issue...

He wasn't enquiring about the -7 he was asking about the -9 being a direct replacement.

Pull RB25 out. Replace with an LS1. Leave LS1 standard, be happy with around 180RWKW or maybe a touch more...

Actually, all he stated in his first post, that him running a FMIC was legal, and running a panel filter was legal, and that he wanted to keep it on the legal DB side... All 3 of these things apply to NSW as well. He didn't state at all that he could only do one intake mod only...

Do some resistance checks on the Engine temp sensor. It's in the top radiator pipe. The one with 2 pins. Make sure it's plugged in, if it is, make sure the resistances are correct for the temperatures (You'll have to search for what the resistance should be)

Mine used to feel the same when I was running that sort of boost. Would just snap from 6000 - 7000RPM, reason it was doing it like it was, was because between 4 - 5K, torque was coming on strong, but 5 - 6K I dropped off in power, then over the 6 - 7K range I was picking up 30 - 40RWKW within about 100RPM (6 - 6.1K) and it'd pull it's hardest to redline.

R31, It'd be handy if we actually knew the person was from vic. Nothing in the post states location, and the only way we can assume he's in Vic, is being a Vic club member, and hey, they could have moved or anything since becoming a member. Maybe get the board admin to show everyones state at least...

I think the poster about losing boost wasn't referring to losing it out the exhaust, more so eluding to the fact the exhaust might be a large restriction causing a drop in flow, causing a loss of boost. As to a legal exhaust: You will want a 3" exhaust, with a 3" high flow cat, a 5" bodied mid muffler, with some decent length, and then you will want as large of a rear muffler as you can fit. I would also say to put the twin tips on the exhaust, and have them painted black. I run a 5" mid, and a 7" end muffler (Cannon style) except they're not stainless, and not all shiney, and the whole exhaust, when looking at it from the back any more then 2 metres away, and it looks invisible, matched with a nice and quiet exhaust note, no issues there with the plod. My mufflers are also 650 and 550mm long respectively. You want LENGTH AND DIAMETER for a good muffler. And yes, mine are both straight through and are custom built.

Dirt Garage: There's a VERY large difference between a company outsourcing something and getting it built to their standard, and a company going "Oh, I like the look of that product, lets buy it at an agreed price, rebadge it, and sell it for our price and claim it's ours" As to your question would Link allow it. Well hell yes, why wouldn't they? They send out this new "u-beaut" product, to another company, that HAS to offer support, and allows THEM to find all the bugs, and make them look like f**king fools for releasing "problematic" hardware. When you can cut say $50 of profit off each from selling it to Vi-Pec VS wholesaling, but you save $100 by doing so from not having to offer the service and help for it, you end up making $50 more profit... And when you're releasing a new design, this is a VERY big thing... In all, I'll be sticking to the Adaptronic ECU, whilst it may not offer the capability of an AFM, I know the guy who owns it, and if I want, I can walk through his workshop, whilst his boys are developing the new ECU. Only thing that gets out sourced is the bulk building of the boards, so their team can develop, and also run the service and help desk (Which, may I add, is top notch!) Oh, did I also mention, it's cheaper then the Vi-Pec, offers more features then the Vi-Pec, and is plug and play with the R33 (And R32 from memory) Skyline? Also, if it is a Link, like you're now basically saying it is, then your thread title is very mis leading, as it still isn't "Aussie Made" in the end, the profit goes back to New Zealand. PS: I believe Link do sell a plug in ECU for the Skyline that doesn't require any wire cutting... http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-man...san-plugin-ecus Oh, you also claimed this ECU was twice as fast as an Autronic I believe it was... Can you give us processing speeds of both to prove this of the processor alone, then, can you give me the code from both the Autronic, and the Link/Vi_Pec so we can see which code is more efficient? Big claim to be able to say it is twice as fast... Especially when you only claim it's twice as fast because it's a 32 bit processor... Means diddly squat...

Mate, in the blocks there is no difference from an "RB30DET" and an RB30ET and an RB30E. The RB30DET is a HYBRID motor. You can't buy one from the factory. Hence to get an RB30DET you need to put an RB20, RB25, or RB26 head on it. This RB30 block has no head, hence, it currently can't be an RB30DET.

It has to be from your intercooler pipes. You can't have a boost leak, from the exhaust side. It doesn't get boosted.