MBS206

Mate, just because yours didn't go swimming in water through all 6, doesn't mean his couldn't have. You're a fool, there's no where for the water to drain to once it's in there, other then once it fills up, and flowing in to the other coil pack areas. And maybe I should "shut my farkn mouth", but have you thought about learning to 'speel' or use the English language appropriately? You sir, are a fool, and a keyboard warrior. I have provided more input then what you have, especially with your "It can't be the problem you just said because I had the exact same problem just not as severe" (PS, have you cottoned on to that part yet?)

I bought, and already paid for.

Dropping another RB20 in, VS picking up an RB25... Will be a bit more for the RB25, BUT you'll see MAJOR amounts more torque. Much better engine all around.

If you already have the manifold, you WILL need to find out what flange is on the manifold, and then buy a turbo that uses that flange.

Don't count. Line the exhaust cam gear up on its mark. Line the inlet cam gear up on its mark. Line the crank up on its mark. Put timing belt on. Turn crank over twice. Check marks. If all marks still line up where they were originally, well done, job complete. If they do not. Take timing belt off re align everything to their marks, start again putting belt on until after two turns of the crank, all of the timing marks line up. This is the proper way to do them.

You'll see a much better gain by bolting up the whole RB25. What is said above is correct also, water galleries do not line up. The RB20 head flows no where near as much as the RB25 head. So it would be a huge backward step to do to the RB25 bottom end. Considering you can grab a cheap RB25DET and drop the whole thing in, and your old turbo setup etc will bolt to it (If you're using a stock turbo, use the RB25DET turbo!)

Remove the boost controller completely and test. Does boost hold stable? Is the waste gate flap hitting the dump?

So you're using a Serial RS232 to USB convertor? Is the driver for the converter installed? Which model converter are you using? Have you googled to see if it's a common problem using that ECU with that converter?

It should ALL be an in out job. Shouldn't need to actually modify anything.

And when you need a shit load of grunt to come up, you just have to squeeze... Not go fumbling for some stupid switch/button... My R33 used to have a dual stage, 6PSi, and 10PSi... It bugged me if I needed power in a quick instance to duck through a gap, as you had to fumble for the switch, by then, the gap was gone. In the end I always drove on 10PSi, after that I swapped to a boost controller that only had one boost setting...

So his can't be an issue because maybe 6 coils are now swimming in water? Do people around here not have common sense? What you've just said is: I had my car in the same condition, and it can't be what you've said, because I had happen what you said, just not quite so severe... Smart...

I'd be mainly looking around the coil packs. Pull the coil pack cover off, and see if any water is sitting down under there. It may have been in the rain before, but depending on how hard it's raining, the motor may have been hot enough, with not enough water coming in previously to cause issues, as it'd just boil the water off. The other night, may have just been way too much water, and it's flooded the top of the motor. But I'd be mainly looking at the coil packs, and their connections.

1992: The race was stopped on Lap 145 because of numerous crashes in the heavily rain-soaked circuit, including the car of the leader on Lap 144. The race was wound back to the previous completed lap 144 as per the usual red flag rule, however in doing so it was discovered that some of the vehicles that had crashed during the storm-burst had crashed prior to the race leader completing the 144th lap. In this rare instance the race was wound back an additional lap so all involved vehicles could be classified as finishers. Now... Who won the 1992 Bathurst and in what car? Shit... Couldn't they handle an AWD car in the wet or something? As to the introduction of the chase... "The Chase", a large three-corner chicane, added in 1987 to the straight to comply with the FIA's regulations regarding length of straights was dedicated to Burgmann with a plaque embedded in the concrete barriers. It was not added because of the death, it was to bring the track to FIA standards, but was dedicated to Mike Burgmann, as he died there the year earlier.

Is it just me, or are you guys missing the REAL basics? You have a vented bonnet, it was pissing down rain. You've filled something electrical in the engine bay, most likely your coil packs, with water and they've stopped working. You're going to have to disconnect everything electrical and spray CO contact cleaner in there, then put it all back together. Bitch of a job, but it's the only way, unless you wait about 10 days for the water to evaporate.

The procams with 10+ mm of lift, are for solid lifters. The ones with < 10mm lift are for hydraulic.

Any water in the oil? Lots of steam out the exhaust (more then normal)? Only other way to really check is to pull the head off, which means you replace the head gasket if blown or not.

Our cars are prone to changes in voltages. If you have a loose connection say on the alternator, when it's dropped out, the battery is running the show. Add to that the big "fat beats" you were "pumping" when the sub kicks, it draws a lot of amps, and as such, the batteries dynamic voltage will drop. It could have dropped down to around 9 or 10 Volts dynamically, which is not enough to keep the ECU happy, and it shuts off. When you're stopped and measuring the volts, it may read 12 or 13 volts, then when you crank it, it will drop to around 8 or 9 volts. Hence, again it's not enough to keep the ECU happy enough to start the car, but JUST enough to get the motor cranking. Check your alternator out, and all connections.

You don't just set the cams to Zero degrees. They NEED to be dialled in properly. Also, running different sizes from inlet to exhaust does different things with the engine. You will most definitely HAVE to dial them in to make the most of it, and this is why your power will be out and your ignition timing.

Is it like a high pitch whistle or a howl? If it's more whistle like, it'll be a gasket blown. If it's howling, bearings shot, etc...

Every engine burns oil. It is normal. As said before, it depends on whether it's noticeable in 5 - 10K kms. If the engine didn't burn oil, that means oil doesn't stay on the bores, which means the rings would rub hard metal to metal, and wear out insanely fast. since a small amount stays on the bores as the rings slide past, when the cylinder is ignited, that oil is burnt off, and then recoated on the next revolution... Hence, oil burnt. Also with turbos, it can be EXTREMELY common to get hot oil vapour etc sucked into the catch can.

If I knew you had the wing when I bought the seats, I'd have bought it too... Hrm... Lemme see what I can swing $$$ wise but most likely not until after Christmas...

Skull drag it with another car...

I have to ask, with your choice of ECU, does the Link do a lookup comparison between MAP and TPS? With ITB, you'll find that at different throttle positions, you get the same pressure behind the throttle body (Headed for the motor) but, you're actually getting different air, especially since you get a lot of air turbulence. This is where you'll LOSE out on your throttle response, and get a drop in power, if it's not able to be tuned properly. The Adaptronic which was mentioned earlier, does exactly this. The GTR doesn't have to worry about anything of the likes until you go MAP sensor on it. And then it sees the exact same issue. Also to the person saying the Adaptronic runs unreliable drivers... I'd like to ask, SINCE WHEN?

Used to do it all the time in the old Camaro that the olds used to own... Mind you, it also topped out first gear 112KM/H. Also, if it's an auto, it won't snap down to 1st gear at 50km/h. Complete lock out from down shifting once above 45km/h in the autos. You guys seem to like to argue about shit too. Personally, I'm looking to sell my Skyline and buy an SS. Why... Doesn't stand out, plenty of grunt from the big 8 with just as much, if not more potential, and the FE2 suspension, from the factory, is unreal IMO. I haven't found ANY factory suspension that really matches it.

Clutch