bubba

Intake pipe: stock is known to suck closed above certain power levels, you can get full silicon pipes (JJR etc sell them) that have plumback fittings for breather and bov. I'm running a piece of 3" stainless pipe that I picked up off the forums for cheap cheap. Injectors: head over the the national For Sale area and have a look in the Group Buy section, there was a group buy for injectors that had a lot of info on Bosch and Siemens injectors and fitting for different applications. Diffs: 1-way means it only locks on acceleration, 2-way means it locks on accel and decel, 1.5-way means it only locks half as much on decel as it does on accel. I run a Nismo GT Pro 2-way, nice unit.

Hangon.. you reckon the gate is fine now? You posted up that you were having a problem with the gate.. it sounded funny when on boost, like the gate was moving up and down rapidly? But now it's fine? ok.. but you're still arguing? Have you solved your problem or not?

Yep sure is, same basic setup across most of the Nissans of the era, just size and resolution differ.

Probably? it is definitely true.. there are two separate sensors, one for ECU and one for gauge. Does it fix itself the instant you rev it? or are you giving it a few revs (and thus could be a time based thing)? If the ECU temp sensor is fkd, after a short while the ECU will just assume the engine is up to temp and normal driving can ensue.

3076 will NOT look stock.. IMO, this is what I would be doing: Hypergear highflow in stock housings (or go see Grant at Per4manz) 3" metal intake pipe z32 afm Siemens 60lb injectors (stock injectors will get you to about 220-230rwkw but any more won't be safe) NIStune Make an easy 240-260rwkw and look as close to stock as possible, except for a couple of shiney cooler pipes and a pod filter. Another point, don't waste any more money in Iridium or Platinum plugs.. NGK coppers work perfectly fine for a fraction of the cost. As for the 2-way, I have one in my 32 and while I love it, it's not really a daily driving diff.. unless you enjoy a good clutch stab and lots of sideways, probably best to stick with a 1.5way for a daily.

It is the specific adapter to plug a Type-4 board into our ECU's. Type-4 boards cover a range of different Nissan ECU, of which there are 4 main types, ours use Adapter C.

Temp gauge and ECU don't use the same sensor.

The point everyone is trying to make is that Chinese knockoff gates aren't the best quality and while sometimes the quality of the knockoff stuff doesn't matter, when it comes to wastegates it does. The operating conditions are extreme to say the least and often the materials used in the manufacture of the diaphragms etc is not up to the task. What about when it shits itself and sticks shut, pumps 40psi into your engine and grenades it, are you still going to defend the special fried rice?

Interesting, I have a couple of spare blue sensors at home.. when I get the 32 up and running I will swap a blue one in and see if it reads any differently.

Anything that doesn't leave a residue behind will work on the afm. The Type-2 NIStune board suits R32GTSt/GTR (among others) and is a daughterboard that is plugged into the stock board (that is putting it simply). It gives you full tunability in realtime over the consult port

Well you'll have to! Got an email late last night saying the boards are programmed and packaged ready to go but they need to knock up five more C adapters, once they are done (he said hopefully today) they will be on their way

RRP for a Type 2 NIStune board is about $260 delivered. Hunting is probably a dirty airflow meter. RB20 ECU's are pretty tolerant, with stock turbo mine handled 14psi without throwing a fit. It will just run rich and not make as much power as it could be making.

The profec B also doubles as a boost gauge I passed the pits fine with my profec B and the control unit is on top of the steering column so not exactly hidden. As for bringing boost on earlier, I fail to see how a spring and a ball can do that better than a solenoid which is either open or closed.

Boards ordered

Indeed Paul, this thread was originally posted in Forced Induction though

35psi is well low for that size.. Optimal pressures will vary according to tyre brand/size.. I usually run Federal 595s in 235/40/18 and they like 45psi, just put some Nexens on the back and they are happier at 40-42psi. When I was running 595s in 235/45/17 they liked 40-42psi and back when I had 16's, most tyres I would run 36-38psi. That is for my cars, with their particular suspension setups and my driving style... you need to experiment to find the optimal pressures for your setup.

Or maybe neil_se and mungy could send their boxes to each other...

When you snap the pivot, the pedal will go to the floor and not come back up without help. Had to drive home like it was an 18spd road ranger box

Fair enough, and an LS3 conversion, while cool, would need custom bellhousing adapters and all sorts of crazy shiz! Just to address your point of it looking like an RB20.. I run RB25 cam covers but the RB20 timing belt cover (says RB20 on it), unless you were very experienced with RB engines (or looked at the engine number), there is no way you would tell it wasn't an RB20 Good call, I would put some decent aftermarket rods in there while you're at it too.. build the bottom end properly from the get go! Forged pistons Aftermarket rods (usually come with ARP bolts) Stock main and head bolts are fine ATI balancer Balance all the up/down/rotating bits People have different opinions on bearings, we run NDC bearings Stock oil pump (if it's old old, shim the pressure relief valve 1-2mm) Restrict the feeds to the head If the car is driven on the street at all, stick with the standard water pump (heaps of discussion threads on this) Have good times.

Coolant temp sensor for ECU and gauge (they are separate) are at the front of the plenum, just before the water outlet to the radiator. Some info that I have gleaned: RB20/26 use a yellow sensor. RB25 uses a brown sensor (different resistance to RB20/26, when I ran a brown sensor with RB20 ECU it thought it was in cold start all the time). RB25 Neo uses a blue sensor.

Hyperdrive or Allstar Garage are my picks

Cheers kark!

That's just the way it is Trent, until the new shims wear in, so.. just go give it a hard time for another week or so

Any black smoke coming out the exhaust? I've borrowed wheels for tomorrow to get to the workshop, if I can I will try swing past on the way back. If the mrs lets me borrow the laptop I'll bring that too, PM me your number dude

Yep everyone elses cleared fine, just giving the fella some time coz I don't like being an asshole