Stinky Rooster

yEA... copper does a thing known in metallurgy as "work hardening" which means that the more pressure or vibration is is subjected to, the quicker it goes brittle and useless as a seal. The best approach is to get it to seal with the least pressure possible, at least that way you have the option of maybe being able to nip it up a tad if it starts to weep. Also, new or rebuilt turbo's SHOULD be assembled with preassembly lube, so its only really important to splash some oil into the cartridge if its a second hand jobbie that has been sitting. New ones are usually OK to let spin until they get oil pressure, but stopping it with your fingers is a bloody good idea for second hand ones.

You dont need to bleed them Hugh. They arent a closed system so they should be fine just off pump pressure. If you are really paranoid you can try getting some oil in there manually, but you dont need to get the air out before the oil can get in. Just give it a few minutes at idle before revving it up just to be on the safe side.

I am SUCH a peer pressure whore voted.

*runs out crying*

I am down like james brown my man. Just gimme a day and time, and if we are both free I am pretty sure I can talk Sean into dropping by as well. I am always bang up for getting grubby. If you have a lappy I can bring my consult cable and whizz bang new timing light, and we can reset the base timing (including mapping the advance curve )and stuff as well.

there are at least 5 threads on this forum dedicated to that vid its still pretty horn but

tighter than Ryan after Karl got back from the strippers, I would wager....

these opics have been around since JC was playing fullback for Jerusalem, but I will stick em up for you anyway...

I MAY decide to grace you all with my shinning countenance. update on negotiations with the Chief of Domestic Policy to follow.......

I would be more inclined to look at your plugs - if it was dodgy coilpacks it wouldn't go away under a milder boost. Sounds to me like the spark is being "blown" out at higher boost levels. Either look at moving up to iridium plugs, or try gapping the copper ones down to 0-7. Might not work, but give it a try. (IMO, a "miss" and R+R are 2 very different things)

I'm not feelin' teh lurve brah jealousy is so unbecoming of you.

Imagine what he could do in a pulsar!

I'm naked in Kelmscott call me, call me now!

I bought my stagea through Reagan, and I can say it was the most positive experience I have ever had with a car salesman. I had 2 issues throughout the warranty period. The first one was fixed inside a day (still got NFI how he got the parts so quick) and the second one turned out to be nothing more than my paranoia, but he still organised to get the car to a place near me and got thoroughly checked out anyway. IMHO he is a top bloke to deal with and I cant recommend him highly enough.

with a set of these http://www.justtools.com.au/prod5511.htm $35 and a drill and it should be a snap. (pun intended )

Nope - different tail lights too

Get a consult cable on to it and check the TPS output voltage.

ever used a turbo timer? *and so begins the flaming...*

Sig worthy post of the YEAR mofo's!!!!!!

well, in that case you wil DEFINITELY want a RWD stagea complied in australia (the RWD stageas have a completely different shock tower arrangement and a little more room in the engine bay - this is what you will need for a wide angle LS1) Stageas were offered all the way down to a RWD only powered by a NA RB20E *shudders* although why you would want one that spec is a little beyond me....

I can't believe no one has suggested a pulsar Get yourself a nice clean SR powered N14 or N15, spend your P plates on learning how to drive it properly and then boost tha mofo. Or don't, but they are a pretty quick car to start with (well, quicker than a stock lancer) and one of the most rewarding cars to mod I have ever come across. Insurance is a HELL of a lot cheaper than a skyrine too. Other than that, +1 to everything Dan said.

The RWD and AWD stagea's are quite different structually, and while you CAN run an AWD stagea in RWD mode, there is no real advantage because you are still carrying around all the extra weight of the attessa system. You COULD get your hands on a NA version, but if you are in Australia you will never be able to get it complied as they don't get covered under our SEVS ruling.

OK - what about a retractable parking thingy for short people that cant see the end of the car? You can get them as AM accessories to screw onto a bumper, but I have to admit that I have never seen a retractable one.

At your own peril man - Since that post that you quoted was written, it has been discovered that the ATTESSA system sends at least 5% of drive to the fronts at all times (The "knocking" I was referring to was only audible when the front was under drive NOT just while the front wheels were turning) Can you possibly scan and post where it says that in the R33GTR manual? Because most of us were under the impression that was only the case for the R32 GTR. It may make more sense looking at the R33 GT4 manual, as that is the same AWD platform as the stagea - not the GTR. You can tell the difference by comparing front shafts (among others)

Um, stagea is only 1680kg's, and not over 1700kgs as previously stated. I used to own a stagea, and I have spent a bit of time in Mitch's as both passenger and driver. Now *dons flamesuit* I have to say that I would prefer the leggy myself. The thing is, the stagea is NOT a sports car and never will be - its a luxo barge. The leggy FEELS much lighter when you are driving it, it has a bucket load more kick from a standing start and the triptronic is light years ahead of the stagea IMO. I also dont believe that you can point at them and say they have crap gearboxes. I think, also as previously stated, that it is more of a maintenance issue than a reliability issue, but no matter what car it is, ALL imports share the same risks in this area. A S2 ("facelift" model) S type would be my pick - but def try and get the hi-vis dash at a minimum. They are teh shizz.