Stinky Rooster

well, if nothing else, we have proved how inaccurate these polls on here are .... I dont think anyone has won this election, especially not WA. We have at least 4 years of backbiting and political points scoring to look forward to in our state parliament, secure in the knowledge that in the rare chance that anything does make it through both houses it will be due solely to backroom "deals" verging on corruption. Just what we need in the middle of the biggest economic boom this state has ever seen. Yay

SUCH an awesome opportunity gone to waste If they had just put a little extra work into the C pillar and last window, that could have been something pretty special IMHO. I would love to know where that tailgate came from. (the height of which, is obviously why the roofline was raised) Oh, and did away with those stupid looking guard cutbacks.

I'm pretty sure you could only get the 4wd with either the RB25DE or the RB25DET. AFAIK the RB20DE was only offered in the 2WD Just look under the bonnet for front driveshafts - but if you see an RB20 dont bother.

Um,. AFAIK its not an issue if you have a manual conversion. There will be no signal from the trans telling it when to break ignition so I very much doubt it. The only KNOWN issue I am aware of, only concerns the R34 GTt PFC and you need to perform the "secret squirrel tweak" to stop the traction control output triggering the check engine light. as explained here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3208663

It can be done, a few of the stagea guys are running PFC's in their cars, (stageas are 97% auto's) but it usually done with a shift kit added to the trans. The only real issue is that the std ecu actually disrupts the engine ignition during gear changes to soften up the shifts so they don't have to be done under full hydraulic pressure (hence the comment about changes being made too harsh with the PFC) and the PFC has no way of emulating this, while it works, it will drastically reduce the life of your gearbox - just the ticket if you are planning on a manual conversion...

*shrug* Its not like the coppers would be able to catch me in a chase anyway, so you have to give them SOME sort of sporting chance

LOL John Hopoate FTW!!! Sick twisted f**kers. I hope they get hung from the town gates by their balls.

Road flares are compulsory in Japan, unfortunately, due to the fact that they are not here, there are a few pyromaniac dock workers tying them to their willy's and doing cartwheels about the docks trying to impersonate a catherine wheel. And on that mental image, I will leave.......

Lucas pads FTW!!!! They are pre-baked so the break in period is bugger all compared to other pads. Not too dusty either IMO. A member here in WA gets his brake pads rebonded for about $60 per set so maybe PM chuckie for future reference.

Nope - Australia produces about 60-70% of its own oil (which is actually a better grade of crude than most places) and the rest is imported via the singapore exchange (hence the effect of the exchange rate on petrol in australia) . The actual amount of M.E. oil in Oz is somewhere between nil and bugger all. Oh, and WA only has 1 oil refinery - set to crack the crappest grade of crude there is, funnily enough.

My meager effort on a still camera @ Timberten stage (chicane 1) today Oh, and a vid of the lambo popping flames at the same chicane (the sound that thing made is pure pron)

A proper leakdown test needs to be your next move to see what is dropping the compression. Most difference acceptable (in any engine) is 10% between cylinders, and yours seem to be a long way from that. As for the 4WD light, without more info it is gonna be hard for anyone to make any suggestions other than the obvious ones about checking fluid quality/levels and getting the system properly bled of all air. The results of that compression test would worry me before all else though.

The transfer case shares the ATF of the trans, but if you want to be really specific, the fluid in question (if it is the ATTESSA resivoir we are talking about) ends up at an actuator at the back of the transfer case, but it gets there via a pump just above the rear diff.....

Only the S2 2wd came with HICAS

Uuuuuuuuuuse the search Luuuke....... Its the ATESSA fluid, for the 4WD system.

^ what he said My money is on the fact that the licensing dept has seen what has been happening with the auctions of private plates, and are planning a new release of limited editions to make some moolah. fkrs

LOL @ gympie diesel. Not what you expect to see on a dyno sheet Nice work though.

maybe you mean invincible? I would hate to be invisible. Streaking would be MUCH less fun Only silly thing I ever did, was juuuuust catch the bumper on a road sign as I was reversing off the verge and turned my front bumper into a big phallus Thankfully I was in a $500 datsun sunny at the time, so I just kicked it back into place.

I never thought I was invisible in the first place ....

What we need now then, is some lovely member who has FAST onboard to post a hi res screenshot of the transfer case to get an idea how far the driven shaft goes into the clutch packs on the transfer case main shaft. It may be snapped inside.

*shrug* dunno. Personally, I would get new bearings and reco what was there, rather than take a risk with more imported parts, but I guess its up to you. There are plenty of donor parts cars in Aus if you want to go that way. (here in WA at least)

The front driveshaft was the only thing that went on mine, and the GTR shaft slotted in like a bought one The only difference between the two (being that the S1 Stagea carries the GT4 driveline, not the GTR) was a step down in diameter about 2/3rds of the way along the stagea version. Depending on what end of the driveshaft is whipping around, your problem is either going to be the output shaft bearing of the transfer case or the pinion shaft of the front diff. The front shaft uni's are not supposed to have any discernible "play" in them, so you should be able to isolate the problem by hand. Just be glad that you got the shaft fixed before you snapped a uni, they almost always kill vital gearbox pieces (and in some cases clutch and bell housings hey Leshy?) when they break loose and start flapping about under the car.

I dont get this myself, I mean, if you are confident enough to remove the spark plugs you have all the skills required to change a timing belt, and it doesn't take that long really. The ONLY golden rule to stress about is making sure the crank/cams aren't rotated if the timing belt is off, other than that, it is really simple to do. Best way to learn is by doing.