Stinky Rooster

basically all of it. There are 2 sections (in front of and behind the rear diff) that will need a little extra welded in to make for the longer wheelbase, but other than that, not a great deal has to be done to make it fit. Chuckie here in WA already has one fitted, so hopefully he may be able to shed some more precise details.

I would really recommend getting at least a couple of full size spares if your wheels are 17" or larger. The chances of getting a tyre replaced half way up aren't real high. You wouldn't want to get stuck having to do a couple of hundred kays on a space saver wheel *shudders* and with ATTESSA, its not like you can just bung on whatever is available to get you going. Make damn good use of the roofbars too.

L20B's have an alloy head, ergo they already have hardened valve seats so its not really an upper cylinder lubricant you are chasing. You may, however, want to think about knocking a degree or two off your static timing to eliminate detonation due to the lower octane rating of the unleaded crap (or, run premium at a minimum - 98 or better preferably) Oh, and make sure you keep right on top of the oil changes. The oil delivery system to the cam in those things is ridiculously small and they can lose oil supply to the top of the motor way too easily.

Thats what you have to keep in mind though. The visual differences have nothing to do with it. It was the change in ADR's that make them a separate compliance issue. Falcodores may be worse emission wise, but at least they DID actually comply to them when new. Thats all the gubberment cares about, otherwise we would all need to change our cats every year by law at a minimum. Oh - and Ryan. Baby jeezuz cries everytime someone drills a swaybar

need more notice than that to book my ticket man

+1 IMO it only works on pillarless 4 doors. Being a show car, this probably did not apply to the above pics, but for a road car, you will, at a minimum, need to be able to provide proof that your modifications will meet or exceed ADR 29/00 http://www.comlaw.gov.au/ComLaw/Legislatio...NAL+FRLI%5D.pdf Not an easy thing to do IMO

^ this man, he knows

So you didn't get a chance to show off your sexeh green rocker box cover? GL getting it sorted out man.

The reason behind this, is because ADR's concerning emission's were changed after this date. Japan didn't change anything and ergo cars built after this have have yet to be proved to be able to pass the later emission standards. While technically it COULD be done, you would need to find a damn near perfect car, and then bring it over and TRY to get it tested and passed before the 12 month limitation on compliance kicks in. It would be a very long, tiresome and extremely expensive process. You would receive maximum kudos for your efforts from everyone to import one AFTER you, but

WGMG - the complete lack of customer service in this stinking hole thinly disguised as a city FFS I just tried to go to the post orifice, and I can't because the line for service was out the door. So how the hell am I supposed to go in and get what I need, then get past the "anti-shoplifting" thingo's so I can join the back of the queue to pay for it? Perth REALLY shits me sometimes. Sif have the only post orifice in the CBD with only 1 person on the counter 3.5 weeks out from Christmas! *packs up and moves to Melbourne*

LAWL!! Ever taken much notice of an N15 Pulsar grill? I'll give you a hint

*waits for Ska to pop up with offer of body parts* Seems like a great price man. GL with the sale, and may it go to yet another appreciative owner.

Have you seen the physical size of the 5 speed? Apart from the fact that it is made to bolt up to a V6, the bloody thing is MASSIVE compared to the C34 box. Not having closely examined the possibilty myself, I cant say for certain, but I can imagine that the trans tunnel would need a fair bit of modifications, shifter position and connection would need to be looked at, you would need to look closely at the departure angles for the front and rear driveshafts, position (and size) of the transfer case, attessa ecu compatibility, the list goes on and on. this is why there isn't much interest in it.

Nah, dont do that. I used an NKN one that was listed for the skyline. Cost me a grand total of $59 and it came with the correct plug and all. Just slipped the old one out and the new one straight in. I will see if I can drag the part number up and post it over the weekend. I even see the same ones on ebay for ~$125.

I didn't mention the front drive shaft. the front drive shaft cant really have anything to do with it - there is an open centre diff and CV joints between there and the wheels.....

It shouldn't make any difference. The motor doesn't kick in until the pressure is off the struts.

sweet baby jeebuz on a tricycle!! Non genuine O2 sensor cost me $60 and about 1/2 an hour to install because the heat shield was a PITA to get off. (Teh Fury shares the same 02 sensor as the stagea and R34 skylines) But yeah, to stay on topic, +1 for buying locallly.

Ken Block snowboarding his wrx *fap*

Front diff, front CV joint or semi siezed wheel bearing at a guess. Maybe jack the front of tha car up and check for any freeplay / noises from the front wheels one at a time. This is kinda a hard one to diagnose without seeing it. Where abouts are you located?

WTF is with the preggers chick from Kwinana? stereo type anyone?

Congrats man - at least now I have a viable excuse for the random females on fb i had to explain to the Chief Of Domestic Policy Srsly tho, well done.

Nah - usually they get inside your front crossmember and jingle around driving you batshit well, they do for me

I dunno man, I can see your car with big ass vinyls down the side saying something like YEASTY FORESKINS RACING

what would you expect from a club based on the original barbie convertable?