Stinky Rooster

Seen the pics before, never read the article, so thanks for that. i now need some quality "alone" time after this little tidbit..

...because the power steering pump runs off the engine, and if you bring the pump up to speed with no pressure in the lines, you may cause the fluid to cavitate, turn into foamy smoo and and make the job 100 times harder. Cranking speed "should" be fine, but if it starts coming out all foamy then shut it down, as you run the risk of this foamy smoo getting into the steering ram and it can then take a couple of days for all the air to bleed out. Another thing - as the power steering system is a self bleeding set up, its pretty important you do all the flushing with the front wheels in the air. The best way to bleed the air out as much as possible before driving, is wind some lock on and off. And if there is any air in there, you really dont want the tyres fighting the system when its got pockets of air and no oil around the ram.

comodo security suite FTW (did I mention its free?)

dude, it would take me waaay too long to explain it in fully, so read this http://automichanic.wordpress.com/2009/06/...rque-converter/ The "stall speed" of the converter is controlled by the pitch angle (and ergo the amount of directional change and speed the fluid is moving at) of the blades in both the turbine and the impellor. Basically, what you want to acheive is the point where the engine is making most torque, at the point where the converter is closest to lock up, where the turbine and pump are spinning at closest to the same speed as possible. This is so the torque multiplication effects are strongest where you need them, and have the least amount of convereter drag right when you dont want it.

The reason you cant launch like that, is because the true stall speed of your converter is too low. Now that you have a hiflow, and the resultant shift in the torque band (ie higher up the rev range) what you are actually doing is building up a crapload of excess heat in your tranny and running the risk of ballooning your converter. I dunno what "test" the manual is supposed to replicate, but just keep in mind that most stuff like that in the manual is for stock, and stock only. The true way to figure out the stall speed of your converter (as a rough guide) is to hold the car in second gear at a slow roll - less than 20kph. Stand on the accelerator and watch the tacho closely. The revs will rise before the car actually surges forward, and the rev range you reach as you feel the car surge is pretty close to the true stall speed. (this is usually anywhere between 500-1500rpm higher than the flash stall speed) For the launches you want with the hiflow, you can either get your converter modded for a higher stall speed (awesome takeoff, but it will kill your fuel economy, not to mention the costs involved. A torque converter has to be cut apart and then welded back together) or use a transbrake, but the shock loading this would put on the trans, diffs and attessa systems would be horrific.

*tips hat* Awesome work man.

but, no matter where you go, there you are just sayin'

Stagea's are awesome family cars, but they are bloody heavy, the fuel consumption may cause you to wee a little bit every time you fill up (even stock) and while the attessa system is capable under normal driving conditions, you have to remember that its NOT a GTR system, its based on the GT4 system, and thus is not set up for much abuse (This is what makes the stagea such a parts bin special, it was the only RB25DET powered nissan to be built with any form of attessa - R33 GT4 was NA only)

Dont touch it, as stated above take it exactly as is to the licensing centre, explain to the pit inspectors your doubts about what the cop told you and get them to give you a new list (pretty sure you still get 2 inspections for the one pit fee?) Anywhoo, if you go there cap in hand full of politeness, the inspectors will be a lot easier to deal with, and in my experience, when you go back the second time, most inspectors will just go over the list you got the first time and check that stuff, rather than going looking for more. Oh, and AFAIK the strut brace is entirely legal. Std fitment on a lot of cars, including the stagea.

In all honesty, yes you are crazy. Stagea's make a crap track car. They are heavy, slow (compared to a 'line) and need a crapload of suspension mods just to stop the oversteer. IMO if you go down this path you will cry a little bit every time you try and track the stag. shed cherrired man. At least then you can still pop out to the shed and roll naked across the bonnet moaning "mineminemine" every now and again. and +1 for a track only S13 or similar

Despite the fact that the awesome power of my car pwns all, I have NEVER acted like a tool on any cruise, let alone one I attended through this website. Ergo, you can take your comments about being "hypocritical" and jam them where the sun dont shine. Anyway, if the "person" was acting like a tool and dropping skids at a meet point, bringing unwanted attention from all the wrong people (as happened in this case) and puts me, and anyone else there doing the right thing, at the risk of being hassled and maybe even coping a sticker from a pissed off cop, even under bullshit pretenses, then damn straight I would feel no issue with being that guy. I believe that as modified car enthusiasts and club members we have a responsibility to distance ourselves from the whole "hoon" tag and leave that moniker to the idiots doing skids in their mums crapped out falcodore, and bogans with more cubes than brains. As nature intended.

Why weren't the details of the person responsible for the offense handed to the cops? This would be the best way I can think of to disassociate yourselves from the blatent stupidity, and engender a more positive relationship between skyline owners and the police. Srsly, cops turn up and accuse you all of being "hoons" the best thing to do would be to say "No, just this idiot" and hand over the details. What is the cop gonna do then? Stand there and threaten the bystanders or go after the moron that caused the problem in the first place? And if he does go for option A, well, we all have camera phones etc these days....

Join SAUWA Take mums accord to a skidpan/driver training event ...? Profit Srsly, even if you dont want to enter one (hell, I take my near stock NA Pulsar along and still manage to have the most fun I ever had with my pants done up) turn up, TALK to some of the owners and watch them on the track. From your OP I would suggest that turning up, asking some questions face to face and (and this is the bit alot of young blokes miss) listen to the replies! and you may just learn somethings, and maybe cadge a ride in one. Asking someone you have never met, over a public forum, to allow a self confessed hoon to ride shotgun isnt gonna work Oh, and I may have lied a little bit - my pants may/may not have been done up at the last track day

for getting "serviced" in Melbourne, I can highly recommend RB Ryan

sorry dude, I have been away from my pooter OK, I got a second hand one fitted and had NO problems (remember that the front shft doesnt actually "do" that much work most of the time) As for the vibration, mine started out as an annoying clicking sound that I spent a week trying to figure out. When I finally got around to getting it looked at, one of the bearings had already collapsed and the uni was half hanging out. This was way out of proportion to the sound it made, so if you do have this problem get on to it ASAP. I was damn lucky mine hadn't snapped. The resulting damage doesn't bear thinking about. While $600 sounds damn expensive on the face of it (mine was replaced under warranty so I have NFI how much it cost) the fact that you will have servicable uni's makes it a very worthwhile excersize IMO, and if I was doing it myself, that is probably the path I would tread, but for the busted ass broke amongst us, there is also the option of looking up Maytech here in Perth. They bring in a few stags now and again for the engines, and I have seen them sell stuff like transfer cases, autos etc out of his half cuts for next to nothing...

any R33 gtr shaft will fit, as will the GT4 jobbie. I went through this here in WA with my S1 and like you said, the shaft isnt serviceable (by anyone we could find) so we just slapped a GTR shaft in there. If VEEM can help you out, post up some details, but when I asked them about 3 years ago all I got was a disbeliving snort (they didnt know anything at all about nissans, let alone stageas. Too many nissans are FWD for a tailshaft place I think)

Not ALL kids animation sucks! shaun the sheep FTW *edit - my favouritw ep EVER

http://jobsearch.gov.au/findajob/job.aspx?...rchresults.aspx http://jobsearch.gov.au/findajob/job.aspx?...rchresults.aspx http://jobsearch.gov.au/findajob/job.aspx?...rchresults.aspx ^ there is 4 available to start you off, but try looking around a bit man, the ads arent hard to find

Kinda depends on what you are looking for I suppose, but yeah, the labour market has taken a real shafting in the last 7-8 months and it really is a huge "buyers" market atm My advice would be this - there is still plenty of work out there, but only if you are willing to drop your standards and do anything for teh ca$h. It can suck - hell, I went from sitting in an office in the cbd for 6 figures, to delivering newspapers in a 380 000km old van in outer buttf**k with 7 days a week of midnight starts, but it has kept the cash rolling in while I look for something decent. Keep in mind too, that WA is about to start on the largest gas project this country has ever seen, so if you have any usable construction or heavy plant skillz, start getting your CV out to the big oil and gas recruiters NOW.

i cant fkn believe no one has mentioned the farking reversing alarm that is only audible inside the car! Made me want to headbut the dash everytime i heard it

um, apart from the car feeding power away from the driving wheels when they lose traction? not much i suppose.... just sell it for a 2wd version. manual will be much easier to fit and you wont be draging the extra 200kgs that you dont need around with you.

^what he said Also, try Meguiars Clay Bar system, just make sure you use the quick detailer (waterless car wash stuff) with the clay bar. It should take out the caustics too, which is what will damage the paint Good luck and let us know how it goes

sounds OK to me, but if you have a squizz in the traders section, you can get a Gates timing belt kit that includes the belt, cam seals, timing cover gasket and idlers all in one for a damn good price. IMO its a waste of money to replace the water pump "just because". I know it will be a pain in the ass if it drops its guts before the next cam belt is due (because the pump is behind the cam belt) but unless it is making noises or dripping from the weep hole at the bottom, I see no real reason to change it. Save the $230 and put it into something else.