Stinky Rooster

Just look for the big cuddly teddy bear with the mega goatee GL man, and frag a noob for me

that dude scared me The sheer unadulterated suspension butchery kept me amused though.

It could also mean that you have an indicator globe out. Check your side repeaters, and front and rear. Most flasher units detect the loss of current draw and either slow right down or stop flashing alltogether

the only way a head issue would allow that much of a compression drop is if it has dropped a valve, or a valve seat, and the noise the engine would be making would make that quite apparent I would be tearing the whole engine down myself, because that much variation is a lot more than just worn rings. Could be broken rings (in which case the bore may be damaged) or even a ring land - quite common for an RB that has been leaned out. Either way, not good news

Nice! except they list the RB20 as a 4 cyl....

I am gonna suggest its a jap thing. My Pulsar has the same setup with lights inside the tailgate not actually being operable. The JDM version of this model have JUST tailights in the tailgate, but there is a quite widely known mod to get them working as tail & brake lights by using another feed for the tailights, and dragging a brake light feed from the tailgate spoiler light. AFAIK a brake light doesnt use that much current draw, and its not on for that long anyway, so I would take the feed from the high level brake light. You could always fuse it if you are too paranoid...

That was gonna be my suggestion. However this issue is usually brought about by increased crankcase pressure which can be caused by rings being worn or bores glazed. In normal operation there shouldnt be that much oil coming out of the PCV. Only way to eliminate this would be a compression test / leakdown test with a good stethescope or someone who knows what to listen for. Have you dropped the intercooler and had a squiz inside? If it is the turbo it will be pooling in there. If its the valve stem seals or pcv the oil will be entering the intake at the manifold

for shells and a great view take them to Point Peron in Rocko. Choice views, some great snorkelling if the weather is up for it, and you get to wind the windows down and throw stuff at the bogans on the drive in! win/win Also, John Forrest nat. park on the way to mundaring is if you can get them there early enough there are usually a few 'roo's hanging around the carpark that will take apple pieces off you too.

but most of us dont count being handcuffed and bent over the bonnet of a D's car as "good" Ryan

well, having driven a legnum I can tell you that initial impressions probably wont stir you much. The stag is a much heavier car and feels a fair bit bigger than a leggy, and as much as I hate to admit it, the traction and yaw control of the leggy left me fkn speechless. A legnum will almost always be quicker than a stagea, mod for mod IMO - just due to the weight and weight distribution. However, the driveline of the stag is indestructable compared to the leggy, and if you ever have to do any work on the stag, you will be REALLY happy you ditched the leggy. The stagea is eleventy billion times easier to swing spanners on. Also, the practcalities of the stagea, as a wagon, leave everything else way behind. Niceties like the self closing tailgate and reclining rear seats are a bonus, although the stagea front seats suck arse compared to the mitsu offering (especially if yours have those recaro's) TBH just the fact that its a manual with a smattering of mods would have me happy to walk the 1900km's to play swapsies

I would highly recommend getting the Gates belt kit from one of the sponsors here. It comes with the idler and tensioner pulleys as well as the belt, and it would be a real bastard if one of them started to squeak etc halfway through the next belt. Buying them seperately can get pretty pricey too. I fully support what SK said about the water pump too - def not worth changing unless it is showing pretty heavy corrosion or evidence of leaking etc. Good quality gasket sealer for the sump and timing cover will save heartache later on (I recommend Permatex or Loctite Blue) and if you can afford it, its a perfect time for a good coolant system flush, and maybe even getting the tanks of the radiator popped off and the core rodded as a bit of insurance.

dude, srsly do it yourself. I have done a couple now (and no, I am not a mechanic) and they are really easy. All it takes is a bit of common snese and a barrier to keep idiots away from the work area Having never paid for any work other than wheel alignments, I couldn't say for sure, but I would gues a timing belt swap would be in the $1000-$1200 incl parts, but that would be as part of a major service. You can usually get out of it for under $500 for parts if you do it yourself. Take a good read of the DIY, dont even attempt to do it without removing the radiator, make sure you have a quality harmonic balancer puller available and a good timing light, and feel free to drop me a PM if you need any help (I am in Perth too - SOR) I work for beer and sausages too

Yes, the RB's ARE an interference engine, and even the S1's with hydraulic lifters will still lunch the top end if the belt snaps. Keep in mind the amount of cushion the hydraulic lifters have is bugger all, and certainly not enough for valve clearance in an engine that runs around 0.300" lift. If you look really carefully, you can see the fibres in the side of the belt (between the top sheath and the lower sheath that has the teeth in it) and any broken/frayed cords mean the belt has stretched and is US. A stretched belt will have a lot of effect on an engine, causing sloppy cam timing and an ecu that is constantly recieving fluctuating CAS readings. Keep in mind that alot of imports cop a timing belt at 5 years old, even if they havent done the full 100 000kms due to the short distance travelling most of them do in Japan, so while it may have already had a belt done, given the relatively cheap cost (if you can do it yourself) then IMO its pretty good insurance against a catastrophic engine failure.

unfortunately, the "grey" import laws that were bought in to stop some of the general dodgyness surrounding JDM car imports really just concentrated the dodgyness to the select few that were given compliance approval. At the time I bought my stagea, there was only one imprter in WA with compliance approval, and they did some dodgy shit that I still cant believe to this day, such as inmporting 25X stageas that had copped a +T and passing them off as RS4's....

damn thats a bloody expensive conga line! I know there is one in Sydney... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...st-t311196.html

holy snapping duckshit there are some awesome cars in thar my pick -

mum?

Same here! I have NFI about "star" ratings but having had the experience of headbutting a wrx hard enough to write an S1 off, and the fact that my entire family got out and walked away without a scratch, I would say they are excellent. A hell of a lot better than most cars of a comparable size etc IMO

and hope you are not on the exhaust stroke...... To be sure though, the keyway in the harmonic balancer is at 12 o'clock for tdc, and as stated, on the std balancer, each 5 degree's is approx 6mm along the face of the pulley. And yeah, the infometer will be taking the timing off the ecu, but keep in mind that any changes you make, even using base timing mode with a consult cable, can be pulled straight out again by the ecu if its detecting knocking or anything like that

quick answer - very long answer - if the guards in question have been manufactured by someone who has already had them proved to conform to ADR 69, 72 and 73, and provide documentation as such, the only thing you will need to worry about at the pits is wether they have been mounted correctly. If the guards cannot be certified then IMO dont even bother. The structural and hardness testing to prove they will conform will destroy at least one set of guards, and set you back a few grand to get done anyway. I dont have a copy of the vehicle modification guidlines with me atm, but if you have a look on the dop website, check out the modification guide for street rods, as it covers all the requirements for FRP for both full body and bolt on guards *rummage* http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/mediaFiles/lic_cp-105b.pdf section 5 *edit - Bard, its got nothing to do with being structural, its all about frontal impact protection for ocupants and pedestrians

bring back epic beard man

+1 for the cops being a useless pack of twats (no offense Dan) a few years ago, a daycare centre we had our youngest at had 2 girls walk in off the street at about 3pm, break open an internal door to an office and grab one of the volunteer daycare workers handbags. They were seen walking out with it, and a chase was given by my wife and 2 other women. They followed the offender up the street and into a house. The police were called, given a full description by the 3 witnesses (who stayed out the front of the house) and told the police where they were. About 15 minutes later the girls responsible came out of the house, threatened all the witnesses, walked up the street a little way, where they dumped the empty bag in a park bin, and wandered off. The cops atteneded the scene at 10.30am the next day....... This was in Midland, less then 3 minutes drive from the police station. Only in fkn Midland.......

aACV - Aux air control valve would be my guess. Try giving it a clean and see what happens. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html and while you are at it you might as well give the IACV a clean as well. Its the one above it (as mentioned in the above tutorial)

Happy birthday to you Happy birthday to you Happy birthday our favourite (slightly less hairy) mod happy birthday to yoooooooooooooouuuu!