Stinky Rooster

Does anyone know exactly how they did the animation? It seemed worlds ahead of the stuff I have seen in other movies. IMO its gonna clean up come awards time, the movie was very well made, but am I alone in thinking it was a bit too much like the story of Chaka Zulu (albeit, with a happier ending)?

about the same here. I think I paid $180, and that included a new mast, new antennae and 2 ariel points inside my house. TV and STB hasn't missed a beat since. I used the antennae guys that advertise in the local newspaper, (the anternna man, i think they are called?) but can thoroughly recommend their service

at $3K I would think the HD tuner would be built in, but that may still be your problem. It could also be your reception getting a bit dodgy. Any buildings going up near you atm? Or your antenna may be on its way out

I would name him Frank myself, coz i think it suits him

I had some, so I could look like this but instead, I started to look like this so I just fed the remainder to my dog.... The moral of the story? fkd if I know, but I fkn LOVE google image search

there is no way in the world a M35 would take a 6 litre V8. I seriously doubt ANY stock turbo six that would come close, not even the Ford. Having driven a near stock 6 litre more than a few times, I can say it aint gonna happen, especially on the quarter, the initial low end torque would make it all over before it started. The V6 commo would be a bit too close to call though. FYI - Holden and Ford use the same six speed tremec, just like they used the same 5 speed tremec, the difference between the holden and ford is all in the clutch and shifter set up.

happy birthday

weld a boss onto the fuel tank below the 1/4 tank mark, screw a spark plug into it and wire it up to the battery via an old coil. Just make sure you NEVER run it below 1/4 of a tank of fuel I met a guy years ago who did this because his merc kept getting stolen. Blew the shit out of 4 guys in Durban in South Africa and then promptly emigrated to WA just a suggestion.....

it was all going so well too.... +1 for facepalms

even my NA pulsar gets a LOT better mileage and much smoother running out of 98. Dunno why you would bother with anything alse really. If you do the sums with mileage vs cost per litre the 98 comes out trumps too (well, it did for me)

WGMG - the fact that every night my farkin laptop decides to start using daylight savings time and I shit myself everytime I log on before work

an uber cool SSS N15 pulsar.... and I would call it "Teh Fury" oh, wait....

Nah, the transfer case is well behind the firewall so it wouldnt be an issue. What would be a major issue would be trying to get a steering box, steering shaft and uni down the exhaust side of an RB25DET. It "might" be possible with a 2WD Stagea, but you would need to make a completely new firewall at the very least.

as I dont want to appear racist, all I can comment on is what I see when I am in South Perth.

You can do some fairly serious damage to your valve stems (and valve stem seals) by having that rattle. I would thouroghly recommend getting your shims checked/adjusted. As an aside, the engine oil flush is a good idea, and having never useed the product posted I cant comment on it, but in days of yore I have been a great fan of using diesel engine oil as a flushing agent. The levels of detergents etc in Aussie spec diesel oil is realy high due to the stupid amount of sodium and other nasties in our domestic diesel that contaminate the oil. I have used this trick (using the correct weight oil in diesel spec) in the same manner that nulon stuff seems to be used with great effect. Just drop out the existing oil (leaving the filter in place) fill it up with the diesel oil, run the engine for 10-15 mins and then drop it out, whack a new filter on and then fill it up with the good stuff. Just be aware that if a stuck hydraulic lifter is likely to be a problem (not an issue here, I know) you will know about it straight away.....

That vid misses quite a few vital safety aspects, like making sure the non-raised wheels are chocked properly for one... Firstly, never ever ever try and use a sill jack on any other part of the car other than the proper jacking points. As Bard said, a road car is not strong enough to do this and you will either destroy the jack or your car. Heck, if your lucky, maybe even both! If you want the front lifted then use the centre of the cross member - not the sump! Always use jack stands and try to keep them as close to the suspension pick up points as practicle as possible. The control arms used in that vid are a good idea, although I cant say using the edge of them is that bright. Personally I would use a bit of wood between the jack stand and the control arm (steel on steel is asking for trouble IMO) then you can use the whole control arm not just the edge. For the rear, try putting the jack under the diff housing. Just be aware that the car will be VERY unstable as it is being jacked and can rock from side to side. It should go without saying that safety should always come first. Never get under a car that is supported by a jack, always make sure the car is on level ground before raising it at all, and try to keep bystanders right the f**k away. One other person as a spotter is a good idea, but that should be it. Always fully chock any wheels that are to remain on the ground. Also, try not to open any doors on a car that is supported by a jack. Especially on 2 door cars, this can really upset the balance of the vehicle. Lastly, as I said before, its always a good idea to use wood between any steel jack or jack stands and the car. Apart from adding a "crush" factor that helps with stability, the friction coefficient is much higher making it more stable.

/\ + = hairy palms just sayin...

Personally, I would be looking at the starter relay.

epic fail there dude.

I bought my Stagea off Regan and I can tell you from first hand experience, that even if the car does end up showing any problems you could not ask for a fairer bloke to deal with. I looked pretty carefully at the ins and outs of importing vs buying one already complied and can honestly say Regan was the reason I bought one here in Oz. The few minor problems I had were taken care of straight away, all work was performed by a guy closer to me than him, and the one time I "thought" something was wrong (and it turned out it wasn't) he still organised for the car to be swept away and fully checked out anyway, at absolutely no expense to me. Personally I cant rate the bloke highly enough. The only "other" stagea importer at the time had me almost ready to buy a freakin commonwhore... As stated before, its always going to be buyer beware etc, but from my experience with australian skyline (and most imported) owners, the car is a hell of a lot more likely to have been thrashed in Japan than here. Not many people in Australia buy a car knowing it will be gone in a few years not matter what...

Unless you have a quality surge protector fitted, I would not recommend doing this one. I have seen the ECU in a commonwhore go up in smoke trying this jobbie. Not saying it WILL happen, but there is a risk.

a quick notch of the firewall and it would be fine. The C34 has a dash about half the depth of a M35 so no problems there. I cant say I think the handling would be up for much though, with all that extra cast iron hanging forward of the front axle. Still, it would be good to see, in the way that the S1 drift "ute" was cool.

Like Brad said though, the 30 bottom end wont have the AWD bolt pattern, so you will still be up for the added cost of the adaptor before you get to look inside the engine. Plus, dont forget the failings of the GT4 based AWD system, abysmal C34 brakes, axles, diff etc etc etc. Its not setup for the higher torque loading you are planning on putting it through. Unless, of course a 2WD conversion is on the cards as well.... just sayin'