Stinky Rooster

Hence being able to pay $45K for a NA stagea...

its the wire that holds your belly button in. If you remove it you are at a very large risk of having one or both or your arse cheeks fall off (ie - NFI - there are a LOT of orange wires under there. Does it have any power running to it? If so, chase it back to the fuse box and then read the cover to see what it does)

Either Rich and Retard (overboost?), or coilpacks breaking down. You need to get a consult cable hooked up and read the fault codes d00d.

Uuuuuuse the Search Luuuuke......... All of the questions you are asking have all been answered before, and most have whole threads dedicated to them Now, get yo' ass into the chat thread (top sticky) and introduce yourself

Nah, I'm not jaded, I just realised the music kept moving on, and I didn't. Now I have a pair of daughters that think Carl Cox and John Digweed are The Kingz! LOL!! Your couch rocks BTW!!

Coz I am a techno junkie from waaaay back. As much as I hate to publicly admit my age, I was going to raves in places like the Midland Railway workshops back before most people on here had left high school (and primary school in some cases *looks meaningfully at Lil Bobby* )

going by the fact that it is plumbed into the rocker covers, I would suspect it is a catch can?

That was some awesome industrial hardstep too!!

Well, after the exemplary service i recieved from WA Suspensions (<--blatent plug in hope of sponsorship ) I am hoping to climb under there and get them fitted possibly this thursday. Castor bushes go in on Saturday and wheel alignment early nest week and then she will be all ready to dish teh chop!!

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo! *cries*

Or, unplug the battery, stamp on the brake a couple of times (to discharge the system) and then plug it back in and it "should" clear all your fault codes *disclaimer* I have been told this works, but I have never actually done it myself

So, tell me Sean, exactly how does a kid in a candy shop THAT IS ABOUT TO PWND BY TEH PULSAR FURY feel then?

Dude, I wasn't doubting you at all, I was genuinely interested. If I was asked to list all the things I would NOT want to happen to an engine, I think that would rate right up there with the best of them

I know its not boosted, so it may not be applicable here, but i put a tankful of the united 98 in Teh Pulsar Fury and cained the guts out of it for the whole tank, got exactly the same mileage as the BP98 with absolutely no change in power, and as mentioned, for the money you save, BP can officially suck my balls from now on.

I have a question.... How do you manage to pull the ceramic wheel on the exhaust side of the turbo, into your engine?

works fine for me you whiner

Yeah, it went OK. Apart from some lessons learnt with the farkin water pump sealing, and the fact that you can't replace the front crank seal without dropping the sump (and you DON"T want to go there, srsly) but the idea of a write up kinda got knocked on the head due to the fact that there are many, many write ups already done around here - most of them are for a S1 non neo, but the only real differences are the extra engine cover to remove, and Andrei had already done that before we got there. All in all, a good time was had by all.

so many haters, so little time for teh chop

YAY! *happy dance*

No - that will just cause more drama's - I would just put a decent smear of silastic under the face of the sensor

Sounds to me like either an earthing problem, or a relay. I would chase the starter relay first (if is is actually staying on after you release the key then this would be the most obvious) Also, I dunno about the actual voltage levels at the solenoid, but AFAIK after the key is moved from the start position back to the on position, there should be NO power at the solenoid. Once again, this points to the relay. 12.8 volts at the battery seems a little low to me - it should be at about 14 volts (well, mine always are, regardless of the car) Also, The second wire from the solenoid (-) is only required if the starter casing doesn't provide a solid earth back to the chassis. If the - terminal is soldered to the casing then you can assume it is internally earthed? (hopefully someone else can confirm/deny this theory) Also check your earthing strap to the engine. If you have a dodgy earth in the engine bay somewhere it may be trying to earth back through the solenoid wiring. Sorry I don't have any sure fire fixes to offer.

The dish of the washer should be facing towards the radiator (away from the sensor) Have you tried a smear of the famous grey goo? a light smear on both sides of the washer should do the trick.

At least Alex managed to hold on to boost and AWD

You sure it was a carjacking? The dude may have just been telling him to not buy a fkn munro just sayin

Hater I get my swaybar and castor bushes this week, and then you will all be pwned!!!