Torques

Hi! I came up with this solution: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/371512-sucked-shut-hose-counter-meassure/

Hello, I fitted a larger hybrid turbo recently and was told that the intake rubber hose tends to collapse under the vacuum. I weighted my options for a replacement but could not find anything I liked or was willing to pay for. So I came up with the following: After taking measure I bought a 76mm aluminium hose joiner (100mm long) I then lubricated the inside of the rubber hose with oil and slid the joiner inside the hose. It is a very tight fit and it took me about 15 minutes to get the joiner in. After everything looked nice I degreased the inside of the hose to get rid of any excess oil and make the aluminium joiner less prone to slippage. I could image using an aerodynamically more advanced profile for the joiner, but at current it does the job. As you can see from the pictures the outside of the intake hose is a bit bulging which is not a problem and helps airflow. It's a quick fix to a possible issue .. cheap and efficient and non destructive

Cheers, The Blitz seems to be out of stock .. But it looks as what I had in mind @Justin -> Did you buy the ARC recently?

R33 S2 GTST I hope this is the right forum to ask -> I am looking for a FMIC that uses the existing pipe-routing and fits (more than less) right in. Who makes them? Where do I buy these? Thanks ..

Hi there, Considering there is no knock, or lean-out and so forth, how much boost is 'safe' on the RB25 without risking the head gasket or other destruction? I hear people running 20PSI with standard internals .. just wondering ..

Hi! Yes, the HKS is stainless steel .. I wanted to have something which outlasts the car It's a nice piece of hardware but the location of the lambda-sensor is awkward .. I will try the wrap (since it seems to be easy to apply and is also not expensive) Many thanks ....

Hi there, Thanks for the replies and ideas .. I will work something out, but even if the heat is transported away while driving there will be heat soak when you park the car. The car is also moved in the city and in London you are stuck alot in ridiculous traffic (though I try to avoid this)

This is insane ....! Don't!!

I recently bought a HKS dump-pipe. The pipe has no heat shielding, and I am concerned that the radiated heat will have an impact on hoses and the engine bay in general. Any suggestions how to control this? Is this exhaust wrap (cloth) any good? Personally I don't like the looks of it but can not think of an alternative .. Any suggestions? Thanks ...

True, as I said it depends on what plans you have with your car. However, I was lucky enough to get about 310HP ('at the clutch') at about 10-11PSI, standard exhaust, standard intake, standard ECU. This was as good as it got, since from there all further mods required a 're-tune' or/and new ECU. (So I agree 100% with what you write ..)

That's nm, not ftlb, righ?

Hi Scott, Great!!! The video was giving me the right guidance (what would I have done without it?) @ALL -> It went quite well, in fact I could use my fingers to rotate the actuator rod (as in the video). If all goes well I can finally fire up the engine for the first time in 2 months (long story)

I take it all back since I did not realize that we were talking R34GTT .. I compared the figures to my R33 GTST!

Since that's about the figure+ I had with the same setup CORRECTION -> (See my post below)

True - but the cost of Nistune and the tune is not worth a gain of 10-13KW, is it? I guess it all depends on your plans with your car. I have Nistune and I like it. But when I swapped Nistune for the standard ECU and had the car tuned I was quite unhappy. I expected a huge power gain, but all I got was 12KW more (That running the standard turbo at 12PSI)

Spot on mate! (I doubt the extra 30KW stated here ...)

That sound (as already written) like TP-Cut. TP is the load the ECU calculates, if that's over a certain limit the ECU cuts fuel/ignition. If you had your car tuned, the tuner should have taken care of this (so probably a different issue?) 194KW sounds about right. Can you post your dyno? Cheers ..

Alright, will try ....

Hi! Yes, the end of the rod has a thread to it ... But the rod is kinked, it has to be in the original position otherwise it will interfere with the oil feed line. So if I rotate the whole actuator by 180 degress I will have to rotate the rod itself back! However, I don't know how the rod is attached to the actuator's internals ..

You can have as many maps as your laptop can hold, but Nistune knows just about one set of 'maps'

Hello, Without any mods the added benefit of Nistune would be only the delimited top speed If you don't plan on modifying your car a great deal then I would stick to the genuine ECU.

Hello there, I have a question: The actuator that came with my hybrid turbo leaves very limted space between the 'nipple' and the tubing (the 'elbow' that is attached to the turbo exit) The clearance is about 1.5mm so I can not get a hose over the actuator-nipple. I could rotate the actuator itself by 180 degrees, but of course the rod would have to be rotated back (-180) to its original position. Would you know if it is possible to rotate the rod, or would that damage the actuator? Thanks ...

Hello .. I think the high-flowed simply keep the centre housing? ? I bought my Hybrid here in the UK, and the centre is a Garrett T3

Very helpful .. Though I have not bought my hybrid off you, I was struggling with mounting the lines myself. I like the video, especially since I can see that it is a bit of a struggle even for you. Cheers from UK ...

You are starting to scare me I had a look and was thinking you could somehow grab the clip with long pliers and then pull the metal hose. But you write you tried .. How about removing the whole hose with the angled part that comes from the other side (plenum) Is this working? (I could not really see how this is held together and connected because it was so densely packed there)