STATUS

we use al just round the corner, he just did a road legal (passed all engineering and epa limits) system for us nice high flow for big power too, well priced too als custom exhaust on hammond road (best exhaust guy ive used in vic) does alot of custom headers and stuff for big dollar cars. (saw a genuine gt500 muzzie there the other day)

is it worse on hot days?

got one here handy if you wanna grab it. give us a bell if you wanna drop past.

GT3071 or hypergear tr43, power fc. if you havent already bought those coil-overs try some thing esle as they are pretty average.

Load scaling is fully programmable, right click on the map referrences across the top of the map and select map refferences. Then got to settings 3 and look @ the left hand table 01-20 is your load points and rpm points as far as my previous post INJ vs IAT (load hysteresis) there are 3 parts to the table (the 1st two are self explanatory) far right column is the load hysteresis and you can change the constarints to suit your application. i am playing with your map as it has a few holes (peaks and troughs) i only have the demo versin on my travel lappy but i will have my tuning laptop 2moro so will email it 2moro night. i can set all the load poits if you like but i would really like a afr log if possible, as your load line 14 is super lean in one spot then rich and timing jumps up 4 degrees from 14 to 15. fuel also gets leaner as it goes past 14. Interpolate it richer down to the bottom line and drop timing off as it travels down too.

find the "other" thread.

You just use a Z32 ecu (make sure if its auto to use a z32 auto ecu) for series 1.

^^ unfortunately the big internet suppliers like tweakit and hpbox (in my deliveries and expereince) supply a generic turbo in a box with a few parts. GCG on the other hand does all the housing clocking and the kit comes with everything (hoses, dump, spacer etccc) and it works out cheaper in the end as the fitter does not have to charge for missing parts or the time to re-clock the turbo housings or fab up actuator brackets...

wire it into the afm, only the R34 needs it wired into the boost sensor. I like to set the cut point on the dyno and play with it to get a nice balance between afr and timing. If you guess it can lean the car out too much if you set it too low. Remember with any boost cut the ecu is referencing the AFM voltage up to the cut only, if 3.5v is the cut point the ecu delivers timing related to that 3.5v (the higher the voltage generally the lower the timing due to more load) for example if your running 15psi with a cut @ say 3.5v you may experience detonation because @ 3.5v the car usually is only seeing 7psi. (15psi would equate to about 4.5-5v usually) I like to start at about 4.5v and work my way down.

just got your email, i will look over the file 2nite over a few beers. edit: actually im playing with it now, i think i have found the load hysteresis settings. can you email me a afr log? or at least a few known afr points on the map say?

kill all cats.

Just get the factory ecu remaped far better than the SAFC neo and so forth. The stagea respond very well to a remap (750-850), we do about 3 a month, in fact its probably the best mod for a stagea (or r34 that matter). Not much more than a new SAFC either. were are you located i can direct you somewhere.

good job ^^ your memory is better than mine i can now only recite blitz and trust catalog part number off the top of my head.... used to be the bendix and md spares books aswell but now there is no chance

try jump start, may be setting off due to the voltage drop

the msd switching system works but needs a coil pack adapter, and is dear. I have a spare tach adapter you can have if you decide to go that way though. (i use alot of the switches and adapters for NOS installs) the jaycar one works and is about $35 bucks (search in the forced induction forum, i posted part numbers) or use a Z32 ecu like bubba posted.

Damn walbros and denso pumps, i just opened up today for a customer in dire straits..... car was backfiring put it on the dyno and it was dropping fuel pressure.... pulled out the pump and what do you know WALBRO.... put it in the bin and fitted a Bosch 040 and bingo fixed. Hate them with a passion.

the part is cheap, i cant recall the number off the top of my head but they are between 12-19 from autobarn or repco. (rb20 is same as sr20 and is the 180b part number jb4055, r33 P/N i cant recall atm)

we have had all the cheap brand coils fail at some point in time.

send me the file and i will have a look over it: [email protected]

hahaha its all alleged

My old shitter 18x9 and 18x12 circa 2002 -2003

i would speak to scott @ haltech, they can reccomend someone who knows thier product the best, not someone who thinks they are the best .

First things first change injectors and get the thing safe, a tune (no matter the tuner) based on a highly strung FPRis a reciepe for disaster on a track car... forget plug heat range the 7's will be fine. also check the coil packs ive had a few sets die.

No but methanol is definately more fun

hmm not too far, might swap cats over to E85. Was going to mix up my own 98 and methanol but i may try the pump gear first. We made just shy of 430 on 98 so it should be a good laugh on e85 or a jungle juice. Oi hamish when you get a min drop past and we will look at the fuel economy.