STATUS

bewary of the SARD's we have been a bit dissapointed in the max hp they actually support (as have others), would be worth looking @ injector dynamics... maybe godzilla motorsports can help there as it would save sourcing them OS like we did..

the stud pattern and hub centres are just too large and i cant justify shelling out for the adapters for it, the back it light (for a big truck) but i will find out. I thought about hiring the MTQ truck dyno im guessing 140rwkw and 100000000nm

can i put my truck on? c30 dually. If not ill just come down and be a social flutterby

Im amazed its not made news here.. The talented D1 drift driver Atsushi Kuroi passed away due to injuries from a motorscycle accident, he had the craziest speed and style and a great bloke just to shoot the shit. Very sad news.

The R34 SMIC intecooler is better but still junk, it heatsoaks badly and only delays the inevitable. FMIC are cheap nowadays and just jup have returb flow ones for next to nothing. I got 34 gtt ones laying around like dead flys.

sorry i should have been clearer, i was talking from a customer point. Say you tune it with std afm then make a change to a Z32 then you need to use an emulator (and software) to set it up then burn the changes.... then the customer upgrades the turbo and the process starts again. With nistune we charge for the first tune then any upgrades the customer makes down the track are charged per HR not as another entire tune which is usually charged with eeproms as it is labour intensive. With nisune you just plug into the consult port and tune.

www.nistune.com

Man screw that, make a change and have to spend time burning a new eeprom.... its the only reason we dont burn chips anymore for anything (flash or live tuning only nowadays except for the odd euro), At least when you sell the ecu its actually worth something

do yourself a favor and call nistune, the ecu if it is a nistune remap can be retuned infinitely. We charge an upfront tuning fee then charge by the hour for retunes later on. Sam is very good at remapping and we send alot of westside (melbourne) enquiries to him. Forget the microtech, adaptronic would be money better spent.

Do you know NISTUNE is Adelaide based? Speak to Pete or Matt they could direct you to a recommended shop there.

Thats a tune issue not a plug issue, we have a few guys with daily drivers on 8 and 9's

Canada 10000000000000 times better than the USA, been there before? used to spend our winters up near Kelowna (Silver Star) back when snowboarding was a dirty word

Not to be rude but they generally pull 300kw @ around 1.1bar and getting 350 on std cams should be fine.

No need, you have a world of headroom with e85

least they will make boost BCPR7ES FTW

HAHA ditto, San fran to LA, LA to LV (getting married) LV to miami, Miami to bahamas, bahamas to LA. Trying to hire a different muscle car for each leg if not may buy a camaro and bring it back...

i had a kakimoto GTR remap come in today and it had about 6 degrees too much timing in it... i had to set the base timing to 14 instead of 20. it pays to look at the tables before running something like this. It would not have taken long for this agressive map to kill a 26.

dont stress on the latency numbers, let your tuner do it. I like to play a bit with these to fine tune a setup. To much emphasis is put on this number for just getting the car running.

from memory on the tomei every mark is 2 degrees.

fit std pump and std water pump, more than adequate. We used a std RB26 sump with removed diff and a tomei baffle only. With a greddy pump (60l per min) we had no issues for 3 years, we "upgraded" to a bigger baffled sump from a reputable engine builder and it cost us two engines (independently inspected).... swapped to an ASR and all the dramas are over. point of story, you dont need one but if you do the only after market RWD sump we use now is the ASR (high energy) item.

HAHA got distracted between runs, wireless for the win

Feedback from guys who have done back to back with 595rs federal's have found the KU's to be slower..

it depends on a few things like head and block decking, if you want them 100% set it via cam lift. If you want it close just make sure the mark lines up with the timing case backing plate (same as doing cam belt).

ive had endless dramas (poor control) with certain siemens in our applications (nissan remaps and pfc etc) they are pretty poor (due to a large bad batch early on). There is a set floating around on here that has been through my shop door twice and they were supposed to be 600cc and intended for R34 so be aware.

100% agreed