STATUS

The problemin this case is is to stop it ALL the time you need to pull 10 degrees of timing out of the whole boost map, the heat soak is that bad. On the dyno it pulls 210ish for about 10 pulls then it gets to the point its making 170 -odd witht the required timing pulled out. We had to take a median point so it was at least safe in the most condtitions (track with decent airflow etc), but unfortunately stop start driving just cant be compesated for without taking ALL the timing out. There is no AIT compensation in these ecu's either which isnt helping. Water meth would be the best solution if a decent front mount is a definate no go.

Theres your answer, you need to trim the temp compensation. bcpr7es, usually 7-12 months depending on driving Kms.

its no biggie TBH, the downside is the extra fumes traveling into your plenum and for a daily this is no major concern. For constant hardwork i DO recommend getting one though as long periods on boost and high rpm can create excessive oil vapors and this gets mixed with your intake charge reducing its volatility..

is too

doesnt every one ive got about 4 lc1's (2 wont talk to the programmer fk knows why) and 2 i use for V8's. My old LM1 seems to be the most reliable and is used for auto tune ecu's. I get about 2 weeks from a sensor (my dyno uses the same sensor) bear in mind it runs 8 hours a day and gets hammered by vibration and sooty cars. The heat sink is cool and i use one for tuning alot of the jap turbo kits where the sensor is about 10cm's from the exducer. I would fit the sensor about half way between turbo and cat, they dont like impact (rocks, constant water spray etc) so it is nice to have it up a little.

just bought a bike and need the room, best offer takes it.

should be fixed now

NO... you put your hand on my lap......

S2k's with a GTRS or T518z are a pretty sweet thing 220rwkw and safe as houses....we had a vortech charged one in not to long ago and it was like a t0z on a mira.... not nice. 15k would get you a killer engine and turbo package, about 12k for the stroker (new top to bottom), 2.2-2.5k for new -5's etc..

tweak the outer ones and with the car idling spray aero start or brake / carb cleaner around the gap. If the idle lifts (or any perceptible change) you have a leak. Remember the gasket is rubber and around 3mm thick so it should not look flush, but the oil around it is a bit sus Mind you when we were chasing your leak on the dyno i remmember spraying cleaner around there and it was fine @ idle. (but it was not oily then) then we found the split cooler elbow.

Guarantee the tune is way to rich on transitions and cold start driving.

plug the stock one in, if it starts the PFC is U/S. Try initailizing the pfc aswell then try starting it before you do anything else, it may have a real weird map in it for big injectors and AFm etc..

sweet score andrew hope you get some good exposure from it, the actual show was a bit poor though what were your thoughts?

its pretty common for the bleeders to be blocked (poor maintenance) it is not that hard to fix, even if you have to pull off the vaccum / coolant bar... its 4 or six allen screws and a few o-rings.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Br...ct-t307918.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...rs-t307916.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...it-t307914.html thats just a few, im happy to go over and fix all the others if it makes things easier.

Hey guys since i got my trader account the pics i upload are only able to be seen by me, to others the link appears broken. ant ideas? cheers Trent

No as there are two water temp sensors, one for the ecu (wont give correct output for dash) and the second sensor is purely for the dash. You sound out of your depth take it somewhere.

i did all the factory training when i was an apprentice for Audi (among othe marques like nissan and honda) and found them to be very well built, reliable but expensive to modify and repair. i remmeber an a6 needing new cats and they were 2700 each

same company makes them but no worries.

M3 FTW sorry

keen on the side skirts, exhaust and full stereo surround trims etc Is the car cut up yet? if not how much for the complete car minus the engine and trans?

well something isnt right ive got countless pages of dyno files and seat of the pant experience proving the opposite of what your saying. Without seeing pics of the installation i cant comment any further.

check that when you titghened the centre bolt that the plug did no banana, sometimes only the centre get pulled down and the two outer edges dont seat fully. Firmly push each end it all the way. If not listen for the fuel pump prime whilst cranking. It is quite common for dead PFC's to light up but give no fuel pump prime signal.

i could put a hole in the intercooler and still set it @ 10psi it would just be laggy and taper. i have seen those things plumbed wrong on numerous occasions. I bet you haven't isolated the std boost solenoid correctly from the bleed valve circuit..

To be honest i used to loath the adaptronics as the few id played with had connector issues and intermittently played up, but after installing a few new ones and having no dramas i figured most of those earlier issues were most likely poor installation by whoever did the job in the first place. Soon as our wedding is finalised (few months) im gonna put my money where my mouth is and order one of those e1280 for a new 1400rwhp project thats in the works here.