STATUS

this is some early footage of the T88 signal car i keep banging on about (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/T7...rd-t311305.html). Car has had a few changes since but is the reigning time attack car in the US.... but see's most of its time in the drift series with a T04R.

I would not buy one of their turbos based on other products i have used from that company. BUT i heard somewhere they were making billet turbos nowadays so can you post pics or a link?

they are 5mm too long, rb26 springs are the right diameter but the wrong length and bind (among other things) up in rb25.

converting inches to mm as we speak my maths is ass but 3/16 is about 4.5-5mm and 1/8 inch is around 3mm, i will check the clearances for you. Its sounds about right as the std pickup sits 4-5mm off the bottom.

yeah its pretty common, but i've found quite a few needed upgraded valve springs. I have one here that is out of that car and it has gone well soft. Same story with S15's SR20's and so called drop in PONCAMS..

is this you? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...T#ht_500wt_1182

HKS GT-RS Turbo $1200-1350 Nismo 550cc Injectors $500 Apexi PowerFC & Commander $1200 Apexi Electronic Boost Controller $250-350 Splitfire Coil Packs $300-400 Nismo Fuel Pump $200-250 Z32 AFM $200 all approx and based on what customers have told me they paid for things over the past 12 months.

I use both and can tell you that a different technique is needed with the PROFLOW gear, we have a few cars using the gear making big hp and they are extremely reliable. In the last car we used the proflow gear we saved close to $500 in fittings and hose and it is yet to show any signs of leaking or failing. That said they definitely are not as good quality as earls, speedflow and russell but you are paying upto 50% less.... so its all relative. Another important thing to remember is PROFLOW 90 degree (and other bends) fittings are not the same radius as the more expensive gear therefore they are sometimes unable to fit in tight places whereas the dearer stuff can.

I have a few T518Z built engines in the dyno vault too, i will look em up.... drama is i have close to 900 tuned cars to sift through

good to see its not just me, i was beginning to lose my shite @ our server setup... thinking it was at fault It really is a random thing, it went all slow for me about 5mins ago and its late.

bkr6e are a bit shorter than the BCPR plugs that should be in there which can also make coil pack issues worse.

they are floating like a biatch.

t78 on a well set up GTR is one of my 1st choices. Drive it before you think about changing it. The fastest circuit car ive been in is the signal R34 with T88 and it was driven to and from the track and used daily.... it all comes down to setup.

ive used thier gear but cant say much at this stage, i havent got enough time on the gear to know if its gonna last but i I am testing 2 of their turbos for reliability as we speak and ive used their CHRA's without any dramas so far.

They should be fine, i took down the set i found today but they were too radical. make sure they send out rb25 not rb26 as they are not interchangable. TOMEI type A was the only thing i could find for $531 (hi octane racing) Please help out ramman, if anyone has some laying around let him know as he is a top bloke, and have nothing in my shop that suits.

be careful with these i have had a few customers through (done by large well known performance turbo reman guys) and the cars were never able to match the old numbers.... We had them pulled down and it seem they also used garret wheels (whole garret core) and machined the housing to suit. In these instances the turbos where inferior...... just made a cool spool down noise on shut down

The Gtir has totally different head castings too, the std turbo had a 0.86 and was woefully laggy and responded well to an upgrade (better response and better peak) im sure they used a 0.86 for some homoglamation (spelling?) rules as it was neither here nor there for results. this graph shows a tuned 180sx vs a GTir tuned. (the 180sx makes more torque nearly everywhere)

This is a SR20det with bc cams (264) and t25 flanged GT3071r @ 19psi (blue line is GT3071, green is T518z and red is 12psi on t518z)

Here is a std SR20det with only t518z 8cm FMIC, exhaust and Emanage blue @ 17psi

i found a nice new jerry @ work let me know when you want it back...

Without sounding arrogant if you cant look @ those maps WLSPN already posted and get a good idea of whats going on then your not really qualified to comment.

What did the guys say to do? surely they advised a plan of action to get your car up to scratch? Honestly call them make a booking andt ake it back with a simple bleed valve, connect up the 5/8 hose and give them permission to drop the exhaust if they think its restrictive. You should then be making 230-250-odd with everything sorted.

haha telling people who own an AVCR that it "aint all that" will always results in favourable posts.... it would be the same if i started a thread for any make of boost controller. Datalogging various controllers over the years has been my resource of information as is the 800-900 odd cars ive had on my dyno... If your happy with it then thats all that matters. Nearly all EBC's have a accurate electronic map sensor, be it internal or external... the location is not important (most high end ecus have the map sensor in cabin) and nearly all are closed loop. It has no dedicated gain only a user programmable "openloop" duty cycle vs rpm, among other workarounds... in nearly all instances i have been able to ramp quicker withthe closed loop gain control of the Dual Solenoid blitz All the id versions of the blitz have datalogging too in graph form with user programmable axis.. if you have the power meter you can log it against just about any input you wire it too. TBH though the dual solenoids units by themselve's are good enough as they offer twice the sampling resolution therefore can react quicker to ramp and drop therefore eliminating all the complicated "bells and whistles" the AVCR needed to get a similar result..

for starters the blitz spec r is much better especially when combined with the power meter as it can do all the bells an whistles you talk of but at twice the resolution and speed. even the basic spec r (or any blitz dual solenoid) ramps up noticably quicker than the AVCR (no ramp / gain control) and this is where the AVCR lags behind other controllers that do. We did alot of testing of controllers back to back and the AVCR placed towards the bottom end of the major jap brands. Ive had avcr's in a few cars of my own and know how to use them but stopped using them 5 odd years back when the later blitz gear started out performing them.

thier crap fullstop they are designed for 6psi and daily driving not 12-odd psi and any sort of decent spirited driving. A quick datalog of AIT quickly proves this. I can listr about 6 customers with ARC SMIC and r34 SMIC that are having issues on anything warmer than 25 degree days.... track days in anything over that requires stupid numbers removed from the timing map.. few are still on std turbos. Add a decent turbo and the issue comes to fuition twice as quick. one rb20 skyline with gt2530 has an ait (pfc djetro on rb20) that takes timing out as the temp increases, it turned out after 3 laps of winton the total timing was reduced so much to stave off det that when i ran it on the dyno with those timing figures it only made 170rwkw..... std power, fitted a cheap 400 turnflow kit and it is sweet. if someone is happy to pay $200 (like you reckon) for a r34 smic be my guest i have a few id be happy to part with.