STATUS

I can tell straight up from that graph that the dyno operator has changed ramp rates to manipulate the curve... plain as day.

they (tuner handset) havent been available for a long time, you will have to look up long time link dealers.

Bingo, it can take forever to match the AFM voltage curve to get it even close.. add cams, plenum etc and you can spend days... OP ignore the values if you are just starting out, just make sure there are no big jumps. Make sure it is all smooth. Another thing is remmeber things like accel pump etc will show up on short logs so it is best to read the logged AFR in spots of consistant tps or ignore the first part of your accel run as it will show up rich due to the extra accel pump fuel injected. make sure 02 feedback is switched off whilst tuning.

Leave it and play with the gears, one of the best SR20 combos we build for customers uses a split setup of 264 intake and a 272 exhaust.

in some of the advertisements they say datalogging but "we can not change settings" so i have been a bit shy but for just over $100 its worth a shot. All menus will be in japanese though.

refer Roys post it is bang on

to be honest even with a gt2530 cam gears are a waste, the inlet does near nothing and the exhaust frees up a bit with a bit of retard but again minimal. The rear housing is the restrictrion not the head (cams etc)

navara sensor slots str8 in, dash and ecu will then work

shit a week ago i could have swapped it for a brand new set of -9's.... i love the T78 especially on a rb2630. go to the wreckers buy a na rb30 ($150-200), re-ring and shell it, bolt up the head (12mm head stud mod) and then dial in 18-19psi with the t78 and hang on. Or forge it and h-beam it and dial in 25psi .

never crossed my mind.

It had the GTR nismo number on the clutch plate, bit better than the run of the mill rb25 item they supply in the normal rb25 kits.

hey tao i have a customer looking @ 0.63 TR43i for thier rb20 (maybe rb22 soon) what sort of power @ 18psi approximatly? i cant find them in my dyno file atm... too many cars to sort through

Your failing to remember the clutch is similar to a torque converter it is always slipping and does not run FULLY locked at high rpm, there is still some % of slip therefore should never reach 8000rpm regardless, it is more common for the R33 fans to explode as they crack around the moulded mount not cause they are over spun. I think you may be confusing fan rpm and engine rpm (in your reading) as many clutch fans on older stuff were rated @ 3500-4000rpm (fan speed) the older stuff also ran approx 60% of water pump speed. On newer cars the fan's RPM is generally 25% of the engine's RPM below 62C, 80% of the engine's RPM above 85C, and otherwise somewhere in between davies craig fans are average, we use spal at a minimum or in the case of race cars we use flexalite kits which have the highest CFM ratings (hardiman is the importer), if you need a few GTR clutch fans lets me know... ooh and most thermo fans (eletric) are rated in free air, when attached to a rad they drop substantianlly.

pump is too high or swinging around? bit hard as im not able to look @ it.

BINGO make sure you use the correct port too as the GTR has 3 ports under the plenum near the oil filter. If the gate is no good the boost would go off the gauge if it was hooked up the way i posted earlier so at least you know the gate is ok. Plump up your bov vacuum boost line to the correct port and i reckon you will be on track.

so it holds boost 7-8psi? or it randomly over boosts? because if it isnt going over 8psi then its working. That nipple on the plenum is too small too, you should be using the far back one under the plenum (near clutch master but under)

it is but if it is leaking in cabin it can introduce other isues. If you are having dramas the best way to eliminate the gate from the equation is to have a clean boost source to it.

Noice

Shit happens, what if it was the 180 that caused the ruckus? would this thread be on NS.com? Some people cant drive regardless of make of car.

Try it this way without controller, this is a full mechanical setup. Make sure the bolt in the top op the gate is not too tight either as it sets preload on the gate spring. The tighter it is the higher the base pressure and if you go too (with too long a bolt) far it jams the gate shut.

Not true It is a thermostatically controlled device that when operating normally will vary the fan speed independently of the engine speed. if the radiator is red hot it will still be fully engaged irrespective of rpm. It is the reason thermos are generally inefffective for Hard driving sessions as they are fixed speed and cannot pull enough air through the radiator at high rpm high load instances... our race car is a prime example we went back to a clutc fan as we found the $700 thermo setup we had could not match the std $100 clutch fan for cooling.... hence the clutch fan is back on and we can thrash it as hard as we like with no overheating. key points about Thermal Fan Clutches; Controls fans speed based on temperature When at high speed, the Thermal Fan Clutch can provide high speed operation provides maximum cooling with it may be needed. When engine speed is low, the fan may be disengaged if not needed, providing fuel savings and noise reduction. Again, tied to temperature rather than shaft speed. Thermal fan clutches have a greater life expectancy than a non-thermal clutch Thermal fan clutches are briefly engaged at cold start-up Thermal Fan Clutches engage at about 170° radiator air temperature, which translates to about 30° lower than the actual coolant temperature.

Not on a mild rb20.

I would like to see if it still works under some load and decent heat soak, ie a track day.

i'll post some monday

i would ask the question why it blew up. Folding an apex seal would either mean it was chattering it ass off (detonation) or built wrong as 412 is hardly pushing the envelope. Many many, many years ago the first engine in my FD died after my first track day.... the engine builder forgot to tell me to run premix... needless to say the next engine lasted without a hitch @ 320-350rwkw with the right 2 stroke mix . That said nice project, i would have gone the ls2 route but being differrent is often half the challenge. Good luck with it.