33GTRV

Word of warning regarding gerrard and PAR gearsets. Stay thafuq away from them. Searching my gearbox threads will explains

The nissans are around, we just dont come out too often. The v8 brigade are bad for trying to bait you non stop. The police also take a liking to modified jap cars here, a real liking.

Did i read 506kw on -5s? That im doubtful of. Its honestly not that much more to go a stroker. Chat with brad at spool. He can do a whole kit for a bloody good price. As for the motor above id change a couple of things, but this is all relevant to my experience. Not saying the guys not on to it. Id look into more compression, smaller duration camshafts, look into a morristech ignitor (these things are kickass and great for e85 and boost) and stroke it. Go a single, weather it be a precision or a borgwarner is up to you and your power goals. If you want the best possible low down driveability go a bw with a tight cam setup and enjoy the buckets of low down torque. If you want great torque and epic powers go a precision and a minimum 4inch from the trubro back

If you want to build a proper responsive donk, theres more to it than just cubes. Dont be a pussy, go the stroker, then get a GOOD engine builder to build it, mild head work, a properly dialled set of small duration mediocre lift cams and tune it accordingly. I made 500kw on a run in tune and made 36psi by 4200 with a 6466. How? I know how to build a donk, dial a donk and know when enough is enough. Well, nearly. Split the block in 2 as i got greedy with cam timing and a hunger for torque. What im getting at is this, internet engine builders build 6500hp rbs that run on pump 95. Real engine builders tell you what to do and have the engines to prove it. If a builder tuner is busy and you dont like the time frame he can do it in, remember this. He is busy for a reason, he is probably highly sought after and ski.led. the ultratune down the road might be able to fit it in next week though...

Tune tune tune. If your chasing bulk area under the curve your going to encounter issues. Its got alot to do with cam timing, ign timing and cylinder pressure when you are.

To obtain a roadworthy of "questionable" relevance, don't have a poorly modified car in a town that pours over 30billion in royalties and taxes into the economy. Police and dot here are pretty ruthless with anything other than a falcon or commodore. Alternatively, look at bundy

I made just shy of 500kw at 6300 rim with a 6466 while still tuning top end. That block died a painful death, along with my wallet. The 6466 at 35+ pound should see 600+ on a well built stroker with a good head. I love good head.

Pauter titanium x beams. At around 9k for a set landed and sized that's got the rods covered. As for Pistons, you can custom order Pistons from the mclaren Mercedes engine division at around 25k, however the tolerances required to run these mean you must preheat all fluids and componentry before starting. However, at 400kw with "room to grow" you aren't giving enough information. For a basic build, do what the other 40 thousand rb owners have done, cp and a good h or I beam from Manley, spool, God, I dunno, look.

If you plan on staying with low mount twins go out and get a good exhaust. CES do a good dump and from there go a good cat and muffler and 4". Do it once and do it right.

Paul, os box is shit. Send it to me and I'll give you mine

The best bearings are the ones put together in an engine built by someone who knows what. They are doing. If the clearances are crap the bearing life is crap. There's a heap of things that all attribute to bearing longevity, and with today's manufacturing technology and cq, bearings themselves are not the issue

Have a stock mint condition 33 gtr cooler. Pm if interested

Glass

Good friend of mine stopped posting outright power figures on his wall in his cell due to people not liking them reading lower than other shops, and I mean considerably lower, but like the big sign above his dyno reads, dynos lie, tracks don't . I'm yet to see a car that didn't run the mph on the strip that the dyno power figure suggested.

I ended up going a Perrin beanie, racers use them for a reason. I Also went and sourced a roll of INDUSTRIAL heat wrap and a couple of sheets of the ACL heat shielding. I've reduced temps massively doing this

Block and cradle only. Postcode is 4680

Ok guys. I am looking for a new n1 engine block. Are you a trader? Want a sale? Shoot me a price.

There was a thread just recently on this. Pm me

Pm me

I know for a fact that Bosch 2000's, 2x044's, turbo smart fpr 2000 a dual entry rail, use the return a second feed and a 14mm return does 500kw with ease.

Sorry. Ill empty it and pm you now.

Best way to install the map is ditch the 35r and buy a 6466, then get a vac point from the balance tube like most. Good luck

As per title, kelford cams to suit rb26, r32-33. These made close to 500kw on a nearly stock head. Excellent condition. Idle is only slightly choppy, good camshaft for a built engine and SST Or decent low mounts. Located in Central Queensland, price is 530 delivered aus wide registered post. Not negotiable . Pm or post here Cheers, Allan

Thats almost identical to my block. It was caused by core shift. Also happened at 30+ psi. I am now sleeving a new block and half filling it.

Okies. Looks like its a new n1 block and sleeves. After having a stock and n1 block rayed and sonic'd there is no difference in bore strength. Ill be going a big head and single throttle this time as well. stay tuned for pics of the broken engine.