someonestolecc

it shouts "i care about my car...................................(yes and i have no insurance - well picked)"

On my very first car I had a crappy one installed at strathos for like $350 and it did more than half of that. Silent arm, reasonable keyfob, tilt sensor (that never worked but hey), 4 point immob, ability to be louder than legal, monitored all windows/doors/boot/bonnet, screamed when battery unplugged, etc I thought those features were standard on most alarms??

Gday - I need to protect my baby. Just wondering what people think are the best reasonably priced (ie. not a $2000 cellular tracking system) alarms are? Also how good are club locks (if they're good which brand is best)? The alarm should have- - ability to be turbo timer compatible (I guess this limits it to 3 points of immobilisation?) - black wires - some kind of good RF encryption scheme - a keyfob that is reasonable in size (preferably tiny) - ability to arm on and off silently - ability to be louder than legally allowed - ability to remotely lock/open my car (central locking already installed) - ability to monitor all doors, boot, bonnet (may need extra button) - ability to monitor window breaking - ability to monitor tilt (tow away protection) - ability to have some adjustment so I can turn the sensitivity down - a light that flashes Oh and it would be cool if it could wind down my windows for me Any other criteria you guys think would be useful/necessary would be greatly appreciated!

This is the *easiest* car I've ever worked on - absolutely GREAT to work on for sound.

Thanks Steve I do appreciate it. On Sunday when we rolled into Sydney I made my mate take it to the car wash.. Washed the bugger down (tried to miss the brakes with the water haha). Monday spent ALL day.. from about 8am-12am working on it. Ripped the door trims off and prepsol'ed off all the damn glue on the doors. Started to stick my own sound deadener on. I think it was serenity max and a tiny bit of stinger roadkill. Woke up Tue 6:30 went to work. Got home as soon as possible 6pm-12am working on it for the stereo - woke up Wed 6:30am now im at work again.. I can..t....kee..p...do..inn.g....th..iiii...s.. mind you I've found 'Recharge by Sprite' a great drink - 66mg of caffeine + guarana I will post pics up and try to write a little how-to to do the install - at the moment I'm not on the pc AT ALL cos working on the car. Will upload pics tonite. When the correct tacho shows 2k the dash tacho shows 1k. When the correct tacho shows 3k the dash tacho shows 1.8k When the correct tacho shows 4k the dash tacho shows 2.5k (bit more) Those are approx. and from memory - it's basically a thousand lower at 2000rpm then as the revs increase it becomes more off and off. I think redline according to the dash tacho is about 4-5k ... again im guessing but yea somethin like that.

omg. sorry to hear that nark. I wish i knew someone that wanted/could afford/could drive that car fuuuuark....

Mate lovely.. there is SOOO much room in the engine bay it's almost strange isn't it? Plenty of room for a CAI induction setup and an oil cooler! Have you gotten your tacho giving you the correct rpm? I'd like to know the resistor to fit and where to fit it if it's possible? Ask meggala I think it's drift battle mag.

If I had cash to splash i would V mount for BLING factor... I'm not sure if it would less lag<< does it really make it that much different? Anyway.. I took the day off work and spent ALL day to take my door trims out and put sound deadening in. It doesn't quite look like http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp...interest_62.jpg but uhhhh.. it's my first time. I will post pics of my install efforts along the way - although I'm too tired right now (will post tomorz). I'm fitting 6.5" splits in the front and I've come to the conclusion ceffies are great for installs. I took out the standard speaker mounting bracket and just cut out a peice of mdf to sit on top of the door. I will then purchase a spacer so it may sit properly. I have the dimensions of the cutout if anyone would like to install their own speakers in the front of the ceffy. It would be pretty easy but for the fellow ceffy community I can- 1. give you the dimensions (will measure upon request.. otherwise cbf) 2. cut you out a peice and send it to you (you just drill on the marked spots.. or if my mate wants to drill em they will be pre-drilled) (you pay postage and whatever the mdf cost.. i think like $2-4) 3. forgot option three but i thought there was one.. Also if anyone is doin an install lemme know I'd like to swap tekneeKS

Thanks alot guys. Steve reaklly did build a heck of a nice car. I hope he won't mind me changing the character of it a little - I will be aiming to make it street/drift car. ie. car with a stereo and some nice looks that with some smaller wheels, the subs taken out etc can be drifted/circuit assault a track. Obviously it won't be as good a drifter if I made it just that, nor will it be the cleanest street car if I just went that way either - but hopefully I'll be able to walk that fine line between the two ok. It's actually not making a HEAP of power anymore - it's been set to .8-1bar of boost. This is plenty for now for me... I've already lost it trying to induce powerslide without enough throttle control - ended up 180'ing the 'corner' (i.e. obstacles) - this was on private skidpan. My point is it was easy enough to do. So I think I will just keep it as is for now. I'm having a few problems switching cogs at the moment which is what i'd really like to perfect.. Usually by taking 2nd out to put into 3rd = 2nd comes out spinning too hard and 3rd just grinds... same happens when punting into 2nd or into 4th. This means any 1/4 mile assault is out for now : Any suggestions would be good.. - oh shifting lower (alot lower) and double clutching result in sweet changes.. Unfortunately at the loss of some speed. I'm starting to wonder if it's possible to just whack em in like the rb boxes or could it be the gearbox needs new teeth? (we've all seen meggala's vids )

spotted at forestville (or davidson) dark 32 with plates AXC or ACX somthing on warringah road going to brookvale. Looked like big silver star rims. They would have been next to my new white ceffy - with my mate driving and having trouble shifting haha poor gear box

nope.. we were very careful and lucky!

Well I finally got my ceffy... and for now till i start putting in some serious track time i dont think ill be needing those slotted rotors.. its hell easy to lock up the front and I can't justify the slotted rotors for road use... so when i hit the track and if they start showing weakness... or they get too worn.. then i will get slots Thanks again daveo!

engine model specific - that's all I know. PIMP-DAT don't quote me but im pretty sure if you have rb20 you just get the rb20 PFC.

fair enough wrxhoon. i'd be lookin at a SR20 and not getting every little bit out of it but rather err on the reliability side of caution but sweet - i will keep that in mind. thanks.

WoOt! I have a ceffy parked in my driveway! It is, infact Meggala's sr20 powered ceffy. I love it. Please say gday to me at track/cruise/circuit days and help me out with my drift techniques I'm just looking a putting a few personalised touches on the car and should be in full swing weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!! If anyone is interested the one I was originally going to buy Meggala still has - and boy at stock boost gooodddd dammnn its driftable...but thats a different kettle of fish! anyone else here have a sr20 powered ceff?

I've added the the bonnet scoop to my "list of things to order" to japan list. I think i'll be getting it too Anyone know who makes it or isit generic type item?

lol Nismoid is right - cops don't give a shit. But yeah I just thought I'd tell him NOT to listen to the other peoples cos it's just incriminating yourself. It's like walking into a copshop and saying "i accidently forgot to pay for this chocolate bar" then they have no choice but to charge you even if they don't care. heh

That sounds like a great price. I'd be looking at something like that if the same shop was around my way. Just out of interest what's no backing shim ? (or where does the backing shim sit?) Thanks mate.

Sweet mate you rock. So basically just get the rotors that match up to the car that your brakes came from right? So with gtst brakes just get 32 gtst rotors and whack em in? Did you get all 4 or just the front 2 ? I might look at just the front two if I can... I just don't wanna screw it up. I hope they work GUD!

Sweet daveo - that's the setup I'd be lookin (but probably some less hardcore pads) at. 32 GTST calipers DBA 4000 rotors and rb74 pads right? Please let us know how it goes. I'd like to know essentially if it's just bolt in jobbie... cos apperantly DBA only make rotors for GTR skylines so I wasn't sure if you have the r32 hubs and calipers if the rotors for a GTR would just fit.. If so that'd be great. Photos if possible too Thanks mate.

skylinegeoff is that a whole set of four?

I asked how much to convert coupe GTST 32 mechanics said $2k safely. That's off the street price.

It's carpet? Looked like some other material. Thanks!

Motorcafe asked for issues and technical information that may help him in his conversion. Not to be told off about the deal he got on his engine. Everyone who isn't commenting on the merit of the idea that just posted up needs to get a life and stop assuming just because they cant get a good/great deal that everyone else is shifty and needs to be told off. Hopefully the next posts below will be helpful.

Doesnt mean anything at all?!