Ph@t-G

Depends, EP3 is ok. FN2....

IF you end up snapping a few bolts on the turbo manifold, pray that it's not flush. If there is some bolt thread still sticking out, a method that my mate and I came up with is to angle grind two sides of the bolt to make it both sides have a flat surface. Then spray the sht out of it with WD40 and wait for a bit, before using an adjustable wrench to twist back and forth. Eventually you'll be able to twist the bolt out. I found the problem not to be the bolt but the turbo housing. With the stock dump pipe, the flange is a lot thicker than an aftermarket one, so that means that during the 15+ years that the bolt was on, rust has actually settled on the reverse side where there is space in the thread hole. Obviously if the aftermarket dump has a thinner flange, the bolt that you'll be using will travel further into the housing, which will be caught in the rust and seize. After that that's when snap bolt situations come into play.

I hate to admit it, but yes the exhaust it a lot quieter than mine. In very good nick and very good value for that price.

^ Hahahah... somehow I don't think that was a BB gun.

Ok so it sounds like the meet up is still going ahead so far?

You can usually tell from the general look and feel of the interior what the 'true' kms would be. Ripped drivers seat, worn steering wheel, front dash, shift boot, any death rattles you here when you drive it, etc... Remember to also check underneath the car as the rails and other parts that may have had abuse don't lie.

Saw that article on smh this morning as well. But it also mentioned the trade off is the abolition of Stamp Duty and other bs taxes. Then again, I'll believe it when I see it, most likely they'll just keep the 2 taxes together and make us lowly citizens even more poor.

The pictures on the listing is quite deceptive, cause if you read on in the description the rad is a plastic tank/aluminium core and not full alloy all-round... That's why it's selling at a cheap price. http://www.koyorad.com/products/radiators.asp http://www.koyoradracing.com/products/radiators.asp?make=Nissan The all aluminum Koyo rads are definitely more expensive than that!

Good job! I knew the MDF off cuts when I was making my boot floor would come in handy!

Nah sorry mate, next time it's at the same carpark I'll get pic. White 33 at the 7 Eleven petrol station at Stanmore last night.

I'm also in the same position in looking for an aftermarket aluminium radiator and the way I see it, you essentially have options that go up in price by a factor of 2. You can get an ASI rad from fleabay for around $150. The upside is that it's cheap and does the job. The downside is that you might get a dud and start again (but from what I've heard and read, they let you keep the dud one and send you a new one no questions asked). $150 x 2ish will get you a Mishimoto rad, which I've heard good reviews about and have a low fail rate. The downside is that you'll most likely have to order it from the US, so if there's any problems and in need of a swap, the postage will be the killer blow. $300ish x 2 will get you a lower/mid spec Koyo rad. No need to say anything about the quality and positive ratings that people give. The downside is that it'll cost you a lot more, with some of the high end Koyo rad nearly reaching $900. At the end of the day it's a question of quality vs quantity. Do you have the time to muck around if the china spec rad starts leaking (common problem) or do you want to 'set and forget' with a good brand with proven quality record, but it'll cost you big money as well.

GTR-32M lime green 32 GTR in the Wilson Entertainment Centre Carpark last night.

Price Drop! Climate Control Unit - $30 ECU Kick Panel - $20

A white R32 GTR with full genuine Nismo kit and a white R34 GTR Vspec (GTR-34M) at the traffic light corner of Hume Hwy and The Horsley Drive. Gave a nod to the R32 driver and got a thumbs up back.

Did mine on the weekend and what started off as an easy install ended up taking slightly longer than expected, due to two of the bolts snapping off. Took out the turbo and managed to get one bolt out by angle-grinding two sides for a flat surface and using an adjustable wrench to twist it out. Make sure you either use bolt grease or WD40 to lube both the bolt and the thread hole before you put the bolts back in, otherwise 15+ year rust WILL seize the bolts!

Congrats mate, beautiful car! The euros definitely have the 'luxury performance' label fine-tuned.

I'm pretty keen as well but depends if other mates join. If I do go I'll meet you guys at Homebush.

Spotted a MY12 R35 silver GTR with "YAU" plates on Eddy Ave, Central last night. Then a shit box bog stock R31 on Anzac Pde 10 mins later lol.

Bump

Nice a beer party at Johnny's place! I'll be over to spectate.

Mate just do it yourself, might be a bit rusted on at first, but nothing that some WD40 and time won't loosen. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-lambda-oxygen-sensor-genuine-nissan-skyline-r34-25gt-25gt4-25gtt-rb25de-rb25det-neo-p-187.html

Black 33 gtst with a gtr wing along Queens Rd in Five Dock last night.

Did this over the weekend and at first it wasn't working, but after pulling it apart again to clean up the tracks, it's all sweet now. One tip, make sure you let the super glue dry completely out in the opening, before putting the whole plastic ring back onto the PCB. This is so that the glue vapour does not settle on the tracks, making the contacts not conducting properly. Also if you find that after putting all together the mirror is still not folding in/out, try changing the folding action mid way by pressing the in/out button without the mirror folding in/out completely. This might reset the contact points with the tracks so that it re-calibrates the positions of the contact points on the PCB.

Hey mate, I'm interested in the radiator. Do you know what model it is? Also would you know if it'll fit R33 gtst?

No one looking for a clean Climate Control Unit or ECU Kick Panel?