Beer Baron

The ARC cooler for my GTR was not that expensive. the most expensive one I've bought which went onto the high octane R34 time attack car was only just over $2,000 and that is about as big a budget car as you'll get. and it works very well, well enough to justify it's price.

sweet. that is good power mate. it will be a big handful to punish now.

yeah I thought of that incident too. but as you pointed out craigs cage and in particular the larry bar saved him and he was not hurt let alone killed. I don't think anyone in a sedan has been killed by a loose wheel in recent memory, they just don't have the same vulnerability from directly above as guys in open cockpit cars do.

it was 2001. if you were there in 2002 and 04 you missed it. after it happend they had/have different fences. graham beveridge (think first name was graham, but definitely Mr Beveridge) died after being struck by a wheel through the fence gap. you must be thinking of 2002 when rubens and R schuey came together. similar accident but no body died though one of them was left with tyres marks on his helmet from the other car! I was at the inside of T1 when it happened and got some great pics of one car flying over the other. that race also saw 11 of the 22 cars out of the race on the first lap! and michael blitzed the remainders and webber took an awesome 5th place.

you don't need 2 solenoids. and you don't need RPM based mapping either. and not having RPM mapping DOES NOT make it the same as the crap bleed valve currently in use. they measure boost using a MAP sensor. all the kits will come with their own sensor. a good place to get the signal for it is T into the line going to the factory map sensor (small black box mounted on firewall). the control boost using a solenoid and a computer. the computer gets input from the map sensor and gives it's output to the solenoid. they are better than a bleed valve as being "smart" you can program it to stay completely shut (thus allowing fast spool up) until quite close to your target boost before it starts to allow the wastegate flaps to open, then once open it keeps checking the map sensor input to ensure it can hold the boost at the level you want. so you can tune out the taper off problem you have now. and do not buy the power FC boost control kit. they are pretty crap.

I'm sorry but anyone who says that has never seen or used an ARC cooler. they make a GTR replacement cooler. it's direct fit. it's about 50% thicker and is still about 30% LIGHTER than the standard cooler. it also allows MORE airflow through to the radiator core than the factory one and miles more than any ling chow branded one, or whatever brand name they've invented this week. that is an important consideration. most cheap chinese cores act like a brick wall in front of your radiator and can actually cause higher water temps and overheating problems. it also flows better AND cools better partly due to the fluted inlet tubes and excellent construction and finishing. they are worth every penny and more. I have seen inside plenty of chinese cores, hdi, saber, cooling pro, ling ling, bok choy, cool master whatever you want to call them. and some of them are downright scary. some are better than others but even the best of the worst is no where near the best quality japanese cores. btw, greddy type LS cores are chinese too. they are up there with the best of the chinese cores but still not a patch on the REAL japanese stuff. the one advantage they have though is that being commissioned by a japanese company at least they fit well and come with all the right fittings etc. that's why they (and the old type M) ones are so cheap as they have a cheap chinese core.

lol. kickdown cable eh?

like I said in your other thread afaik there is only 1. not 4 or 3. that would just be silly. check the workshop manual if you are unsure. if you've tested other sensors and you still get the fault then most likely it's a wiring problem.

afaik, there is only 1. it's for the gauge. the ecu goes not need a boost pressure sensor. it uses afm to measure air flow, not manifold pressure. no idea where you got 4 sensors from. if they needed boost pressure for 4 things they still only need 1 sensor....

perfect example of what 9krpm is talking about same power of course. but in two different gears one would look way more responsive than the other with speed as the y axis.

fk oath!

do what your engine builder tells you would be my advice. if you don't trust him, then don't use him! if you are going to use him, second guessing him all the time is not going to help. if he says it needs a tunnel bore then get it done.

if anyone needs motul chrono 300V in syd I'm doing a group buy. and I'll even do 5 ltire lots of it too if you bring a container so you don't have to buy 6 or 8 litre like usual. prices are very good, a little better than the vic buy even I think. thread will be up shortly, but if you're in need send me pm.

hard to say, but personally I would think the only way you'll know for sure is try it. half of us will say it wont work, and the other half will say it will at the end of the day there is a sure fire way of knowing.....

where do you get that info from? it's not from anyone who knows what they are talking about that's for sure. type of import has no bearing on tax mate. that is also wrong. not even close. so you buy a USED car there for $80K you must have it registered in your name in japan, say $4000. you must live their with the car, every day you are out of the country is deducted so that's a full 365 days you must spend in japan with the car, you also need an apartment, and a parking space in your name within a certain radius of your apartment. even a cheap place in a big city will run you well over $500 a week but easily $1000 a week for something really nice so $26,000-$52,000. also what are you doing about your job in aus? do you have one in japan? then to import the car, ok $3,000 in ocean freight, if you bought a used one for $80,000 add $3,000 ocean freight __________ $83,000 X import duty 10% $8,300 ____________ $91,300 X GST 10% $9130 _________ $100,430 X LCT %33 on the amount above $57,000 ($43,430 X 33% = $14,332) _____________ $114,762 X stamp duty at %3 on the first $45,000 = $1,350 + 5% on the amount over $45K ($69,762 X %5 = $3488) ____________ $119,600 + rego costs, say $600 = $120,200 + the small amount of "compliance" work for personal import = $1500 I would say total around $125,000. that does not take into account the year of your life, any lost earnings, any costs of moving countries nor any costs of keeping the car and servicing the car for that year in japan. Even if you leave today the earliest you'd have one here on the road would be about december 2010 and who knows what they will be worth hear by then. I would say you wont save a dime. and bear in mind you bought a second hand car to start with, not a new one. if you bought a new one, they cost about 8,000,000JPY which is $105,000. so it would owe you about $160,000 or so. not a good plan. or you could try that thing that 'someone' told you how a brand new R35 is $80K in japan and you can just bring it back tax free, freight free, rego free, and have it on the road by christmas for $80,000 and save yourself the $80,000 like you planned and laugh it up. sounds like a plan. forgive my sarcasm but I'm getting tired of this question getting asked about once a fortnight for the last 2 years. always by people who heard this, or got told that from some experts. instead of talking to your mate who flips burgers for a living about complex importation and tax problems how about you either ask a reputable importer or actually do the really smart think and ask DOTARS who regulate imports and the ATO who levy taxes in this country.

agree with that, but not all RB26/GT-SS set-ups are the same....

well he himself said it was revv'd to 8,5000 not 9,000rpm. so assuming he's telling the truth then peak TORQUE is about 6,500rpm and peak power is about 8,000rpm and held to the 8,500rpm limit. not sure where gary got the 4,250rpm for peak torque if it's being revv'd to 8,500rpm?!

good man.

one other thing about the car lithium mentioned, mark and russ's R32. it's a pretty special case. it has an engine built with love by mark who learned a lot of tricks building his RB26s and is very handy to begin with. they were running all the good stuff, super rare GT block, Tomei top of the range full counter crank, good rods and pistons, well chosen cams, good tune, LOTS of boost and no real corners cut. not sure how much lighter it was though, it had very extensive cage, GIANT size brakes which weigh a tone and lots of other gear added to it which kind of negated the weight saved from the few carbon bits on it.

there are definitely enough difference I think that make the HKS turbos worth buying. mark and russ's "hi-octane" R32 is one in particular that made me question my faith with their results another set-up is ronin_09 who has a stock RB26 with the 2530 sized garret equivalents. the other thing is, when you buy a set of say HKS GT-SS turbos, you get: both turbos, with high quality, adjustable actuators fitted AND adjusted. they definitely do cast their own exhaust housings and in some cases both housings. I have also been told that their exact wheel trims/specs despite being made by garret cannot be bought by anyone except HKS. HKS design the turbos to work specifically on certain engine and car combo. the garret wheels will not be much different though these days so that advantage is only small. with the HKS turbos you also get every part needed to fit them. oil feeds where needed, oil drains, nuts, bolts, ALL gaskets (including manifold gaskets etc which amounts to hundreds of $$ to buy separately). they are always very nicely finished. i've often seen generic garrets that could have used a bit of hand finishing. their performance and quality is well proven. and by the time you option up your garrets with all the other little parts often the cost to go HKS is not much more. I think either option represents good value, but personally go HKS.

oh, and your car will be bullshit fast on the strip if you drag it. 10s here you come.

no need. you can see if it peaks at 8500 that each line is 3,4,5,6,7,8000rpm. it's interesting that my 26 with headwork, small cams and GT-SS made 160kw @ 4,000 vs 150kw on the 30 with GTRS, and at 4,400rpm mine was 210kw vs 180kw for your 30. at 5,000rpm i'm making 250kw and you have 230kw. at 5,600 I have 275kw and you are now just overtaking me with 290kw (also getting very near your peak torque). and then at 6,000rpm I have just 290kw you have 330kw and from 6,000rpm to 8,000rpm you run away with the bigger turbos and make another 100kw. it's interesting though that the 3 litre doesn't make the GT-RS turbos as responsive as people make out. there is still a lag price to pay when you see that a little ol 2.6 with the baby GT-SS are about even with it up to 6,000rpm. having said that mine was only running about 17 or 18psi at the time as I was being a bit conservative, it's now running 23psi in the hands of it's new owner and I think with that more boost, and it coming on sooner it would give the RB30/GT-RS combo a good fight up to 6,000rpm and would probably feel more responsive/torqueier down low on the street. the top end power can't be denied though!!! and when it comes down to it they are two different dynos so it's hard to really get any truth from it, but it is still interesting. I've no doubt though on the whole the 30/RS combo is faster. but i'm not 100% sure which would be the better street car/hills thrasher... ?

it's simple, if you want to run 2530s and get anything even close to their potential out of them you need: nismo fuel pump (recommend new power feed to pump too) 600 or 700 cc injectors nismo or VG30 AFMs Power FC or whatever ECU and a good tune then you're home and hosed. no point trying to save a few lousy dollars wondering will your fuel pump die or not... nismo pumps are very reliable, well priced and so easy to fit a child could do it. and whatever AFMS you buy, my advice would be buy NEW ones. so many people ahve had problems with used ones, and with buying the 'generic' Z32/VG30 ones, so buy either genuine nissan Z32s or nismo afms. they are not that expensive.

very unfortunate accident. an unlucky bounce and bad timing caused his death. any number of small factors changed and he'd be alive and no one would think anything of it. a least it may cause people to look into the design and construction of the FIA required wheel tethers for open wheelers as they are clearly not doing their job, which is supposed to be to hold the wheel to the car specifically to stop this kind of death from occurring. it's a problem I guess that is really unique to open wheelers/open cockpits as the drivers are protected well in pretty much every direction except from stuff falling on their heads. unlike in a closed cockpit car where this is not a problem due to cages etc. anyway, my condolences for his family and for another young life cut short. the only consolation being he died doing what he loved.

it's an awesome result mate, just one thing and this bugs me all the time. and that's people confusing the dynos measurement of tractive effort (expressed in N) as torque expressed in Nm. that is not 930 newton metres of torque and sadly you can't really compare it to manufacturers who quote for example 320kw and 600nm of torque. it's 9000N. it's a measurement of tractive effort, yes, but it's not the same and not directly comparable or easily converted to NM. it's one thing that always pisses me off that dyno's read 'torque' in this way. it does look to me it's making about 75kw at 3,000 and 150kw at 4,000 but by 5,000 it's making 225rwkw and is well on it's way! 6000 is making 330rkw, 7000 = 375kw and then it's making 400+ from 8,000 onwards. it would be pretty hairy from about 5,500 when the torque is ramping up hard and hitting it's peak at 6,000 or so. it's a lot of power in a road car and will keep you entertained for a while I reckon. Greg builds great engines and I've recommended him to a number of people over the years all of whom were very happy.