Beer Baron

i'm not sure how you came to this understanding[i/] you have but it's more of a misunderstanding really. I would love to know who told you that personal imports are exempt from tax? if the car being imported is valued at more than the LCT threshold then you pay import duty, GST and LCT. It doesn't matter how personal it is or how many months years or decades you owned it in Japan. LCT is not based on how long you've owned a car or whether it's 'personal' or not. it's a simple math equation that is applied based on the value or cost of the car being imported into this country. if that car (including the value/cost, the import costs, the duty and the GST all added together) exceeds $57,108 then you will be paying 33% on the value over that threshold. the ONLY exemptions are: * A motor home or campervan. * A commercial vehicle, and is not designed principally to carry passengers. * GST-free and specifically fitted out for transporting disabled people seated in wheelchairs. * A fuel efficient car (combined-cycle fuel consumption of 7 litres per 100km or less) under the fuel efficient car limit, currently $75,000 (including GST and import duty)

yep, on point 1 now that all cars have to have the stupid secondard bonnet restraint most run a short length of cable which is good as it stops you reefing up the bonnet in a panic and allows you just enough to open it 10-15cm to see whats happening and where to point your extinguisher. lol, I'm pretty sure Russ's R35 gained a few holes pretty rapidly after taking it off my hands.... I think we can both agree that in the case of a REAL fire (ie not a small piece of dangling electrical tape burning on your exhaust manifold) then a single 1kg extinguisher or 5 of them will do bugger all. I still think discharging it into the air, or pegging it at the marshal will get quick response but perhaps you are right with just open the bonnet a bit, have a peak, then lob it in there like a grenade. the theory being if the fire is small it will burn out from lack of oxygen, if big it will explode the extinguisher like a fire killing grenade! win win.

well 25,000 people at Oran park is a bloody amazing feat since there is no bloody train within cooee of the joint, no buses I've ever seen go there and a taxi ride from the big smoke would cost you about $200 each way. in a car it's 1.5 hours drive from the city and when you get there, there's only parking for a small number of cars on any kind of flat surface (unless you want to walk 20min each way to the actual track). and if you park on the back of the track you have to take a nice drive down a dirt and gravel road with holes big enough for a family of 4 to live in. and there is seating for what? 1,000 people in one grand stand? on the plus side the track is great, pit access is good and easy to get close to the drivers and cars. there are also lots of different vantage points around the circuit which are all good viewing. so given those barriers it's amazing how many people they get. if they spent some money on good level parking, and upgrades to stands, food and access roads it would be a fantastic track for years to come for both drivers and spectators but we just know that's not the case.

yeah agree. at the entry level the biggest difference is in the driver. no point having an awesome car if you don't know which way to point it. in fact it will be easier to learn in a slower car as you will soon be able to get the most out of it. no point running round in a GTR capable of 1:45s at EC doing 2min flat... much more fun in a car capable of doing 1:55s and doing 1:56s in it knowing you are driving the wheels off the thing.

yeah the N1 bits are the bits stuck to the castor rod and are rubber (well part rubber). the channels from the ducts in the front lip are stock. just most poorly looked after cars have them missing. if anyone wants a set of the air guides (ie the bit that attaches to the castor rod and ducts air to your brakes) I have a set of spare UAS ones around here somewhere. They are the type 1 version. the current GTR ones are a bit bigger but are $295, these still work well and you can have mine for $75 if anyone wants them. they fit 32 and 33 GTST but I had some on my 32 GTR too for testing way back when. the new version II ones are the big ones and as above are now $295. you don't need the nissan air channels to use the air guides. the air guide attached to the castor rod is the important bit as it grabs air and pushes it onto the brakes. it will still have airflow without the air channels, but would probably work a little better with them. the ones I have are these ones, pm me if ya want em for $70.

nice, I'm digging the R34 Varietta john. hehe. it would actually be kind of cool to do it. would mean a nice earful of that RB26. but imagine the floppy chassis you'd be left with!

actually the stock tyres on the 35 are pretty good, though the dunlops are better on track for sure. but they suit the heavy car pretty well, you will probably gain a second on good semi slicks, but we found the car slower on toyo R888s vs standard dunlops. the real question is how did you go vs the 996 turbo and the AMG 63? also, yes any car with near 500hp will be a little taily! it's not an AWD car like your old STI was. you will find it must more rear biases. personally I find is much better on track in RROff. though maybe it's just more fun, not faster, but I do find the TC can be a bit intrusive at certain moments even in R mode. in a car with so much grip and that is so stable I don't think you really need the TC. enjoy.

yeah 1 X 1kg extinguisher is the minimum requirement for pretty much any entry level track event, and it also must have metal mounts and must be accessible to drive with belts on. of course if your car is really on fire it wont be enough. having more is good too, but a real fire will need some serious extinguishers and carrying all that weight is just not practical for most. but the marshal points all have giant 20kg+ ones which are exactly what is needed for any decent fuel or oil fire. the idea is if possible, if you think your car is on fire, is to stop as close to a marshal point as you can, get the fk out with your little weenie one, spray it in the air to get some attention then light another smaller fire under the nearest marshal to get him over to your car with his big boy extinguisher which can actually put the fire out. obviously if you know it's a small fire then pull off immediately and put it out yourself, but the closer you are to the marshal when your car lights up the better chance you have of getting it out of there relatively intact. conversely if you have a very small oil fire and have quickly shut of engine (stopping oil flow) or perhaps a small piece of insulation or something is on fire and know you can put it out with your small extinguisher do that. sometimes marshals get a bit over excited at the sight of a small flame and will discharge their massive extinguisher all over your engine bay and interior, or down your pants for good measure which completely fks everything up and makes a mess you can only imagine. some of the stuff can also be corrosive which is not nice in your predominately metal car. if it is a tiny little thing and you know it can be put out without all that then do whatever you can to stop the marshal blowing his load into your engine bay. the clean up is not pretty and could completely fk a number of things. even better is have a properly maintained and monitored car that doesn't catch on fire. that would be my advice.

I remember the prototypes... mmmm.

lol, everyone has the same idea. every single bloody set of arms or bushes for 32 does not give anywhere near enough neg camber. the only way up till now was cut and shut factory arms to get you that nasty 5 degrees neg you want. but if johnny listens to me (and he will or I will ridicule him for life) these will be the best arms on the market. cure the binding/bush wear issues and the lack of adjustment issues in one hit.

there is a whole thread on the cube in this very section......

yeah they make pretty much the whole range of defi gauges in imperial measurements for the US market. like temp in fahrenheit, pressure in psi etc. tell him to get with the times. we have the metric system and as such don't read pressure in pounds per square inch. lol. kg/mm or bar is the way to go. but if he absolutely must have it then try US ebay.

ummm nickR33 would disagree! 1st day out in his new GTR = bottom end goneski, but not back better than ever I hear.

ummm nickR33 would disagree! 1st day out in his new GTR = bottom end goneski, but not back better than ever I hear.

lol, it's the best thing I've ever seen them make. every other year the crap they bring to autosalon is just that....crap. at least this kind of a cool idea, an R35 Kei Car. schweet.

was it old standard balancer or a new one? if old one then I'd probably say you're right, it just gave up.

I think we can all agree hamilton is a cock. he's now known for his great hero moves that only ever come off if the other guy lets it happen, or he has a miracle. most of the times (like turn 1 nurburger) he ends up off the track and rapidly loosing spots. he really is a clown driver.

and djr81 is right, webber can drive like a bit of a cnt from time to time. i'll admit it. most guys who make it to the top tend to be just a tad ruthless and a tad loose in their interpretation of driving standards manuals... but he does cop it sweet too. and I would argue he's copped more than he's dished out.

why would he risk damaging his own car? that does not make sense! if chebacca lives on endor you must acquit!

I could live with that order.

should be mid 11s easy. with just 250rwkw an regular ol street tyres I ran 12.4 in my old GTR and I can't drag the skin off a bowl of soup. my next GTR with about 310rwkw ran 11.7 first time out on 18inch wheels with rubbish tyres and a driver who had never drag raced in his life. at 120mph you should be in mid 11 territory. just need more practice I'd say.

the sad thing is by the time you buy a full set of decent clamps (like sard dual bead, very good) and some decent joiners, and then get the bracket cut and re-welded, and then get the piping cut, and then get lips welded or rolled on all the piping you have spent so much time and money and yet you still have a 'cheap' intercooler. you could have just bought a good kit in the beginning and fitted it without hassle and without having to mod or change half the bits.

yep, the shorter the hoses the shorter the spike. ie the quicker it can respond. it's not much though but can be enough if you just have a tiny spike.

yeah that's the truth. I still personally think the penalty was un-warranted and inconsistent but in the end all it did was reduce his win from an absolute spanking (he would have been near half a lap up) to a decent spanking. and I do agree that he should play by the rules but honestly who the fk knows what they are? cause one week you'll get done for a certain move, and at the next race someone will pull it on you and get away with it and you'll think. wtf?!?

lol, it worked for schuey.... not many dared drive along side him for fear of the.....