Beer Baron

d'oh! where is the smiley for eating my word?!?! just goes to show they are better than most but still not perfect. where was the crack? on a weld i'm guessing? they main improvement they have over 90% of stainless manis out there is the fact that since the pipes are extruded in the shape they need they don't weld sections of pipe. only weld pipe to flange and the collector/turbine flange. so that's really the only place they can crack and can be stopped buy a few little bracket I reckon. they are still the best option out there i've seen. check out the difference in flange outlet size between standard and tomei on their site. I really don't think you can port a set of stockies that far. in the graph they post they make a decent gain over even the N1 manifold.

the only real experience i've had using NEW slicks was on the porsche cup car. we mostly used micheliens and liked the way they felt and they lasted quite well. we occasionally were forced to run the dunlops (rules) and found they were more expensive and not as good. don't know of any of the big categories/competitors running falken slicks in aus so can't really help with them.

god i hope you bought that one troy!!! 35,000 JPY. noice! please tell me you bought it and will get it cleaned up and use it....

argh!!! I know you mean well but argh! yes I know what a PCV valve is, where it goes, how it works and what it looks like and even what it smells like. their rocker cover ventilation system does not incorporate it. it has two giant green pipes going to a catch tank system which as far as I know is vented to atmoshphere. there may be a hidden pipe conntect at one of the turbos inlets but i'm 90% sure it's not. the other pipe going into the left side of the sump i'm talking about is from the drain/vent fitting on the back of the head. you kept asking where it went and I'm fairly sure that is it. we are getting massively bogged down in minute detail now. it really doesn't matter....

I can't be sure but look at the intake side of the sump. I would guess that that is where the rear head fitting is plumbed into the sump. it's the same pic you posted before. I have lots of pics of the m-speed engine bay somewhere. if you have time have a look at my japan photo diary. there are bound to be some in there (link in my sig). otherwise if I have time I will try and find some on my other pc. I also can't see any connection between the rocker covers and the PCV. as sydneykid states it's not being used for that.

yep, you will love the AGY SS690 dual cone synchro box with the OSG gearset in it. they are very good. make sure you get genuine HKS kansai covers as far as I know they no longer produce the carbon ones, only the carbon kevlar, and when they did make them they were dry carbon. the ones in that pic like like they are wet carbon and look like the copies that are around. have a look on that N1 parts site and the pic you posted looks different to the other pic they have with them fitted to an engine. the ones on the engine look genuine. see how the ones on the engine do not have that real glossy finish, more of a matte finish. that is what the genuine ones are like. I just don't want to see you pay genuine money for non genuine covers! it will be awesome when it's done.

i've had both black and silver in the same car. I think I like the black a bit better but they both look good. if you're after one I may actually have one FS.

what would I know? i've only seen the car in person with my own 2 eyes about half a dozen times. I cannot see anywhere that shows a line from the catch tank back to the inlet. can you?

power FC just runs the fuel pump at constant voltage. at least it does in Nissans.

their catch tank is not feeding back into the inlet. it's vented to atmosphere.

i would not take what is on rhdjapan as gospel of what that product is for. they would have written that themselves going by what they 'think' it's designed for. that is not neccisarily what auto staff or m-speed use it for.

the pic you posted i'm pretty sure shows it. you can see the fitting going into the side of the sump on the intake side.

your heavy breathing is mainly caused by a diet of guiness and meat pies. if you get a catch tank for your nose it may muffle the noise a bit and let gemma get some sleep...

yeah I agrees 100%. and that's the way i've done it too. nice enlarged oil galleries to let it drain nicely. as you know my one was done in japan too and very much in the same vein as m-speeds philosophy. and I think quite possibly on the same track as your head and block theories.

definitely do not wait 5000kms to give it the full tune and full boost. the engine will be half worn out by then let alone run in!! lol. listen to greg. he built the thing. between 1000kms and 5000kms nothing is going to be achieved by running on a rich, conservatively timed, low boost, low rpm tune. except frustrations and boredom! if you've done 1000kms then it's well and truly ready for the full ponies! get the wick turned up and enjoy.

yep, powerplay certainly do not have R35 compliance. in fact as far as I know they do not comply any cars? IMG most certainly do (I had my last one complied there). I can't say for sure if TGI or Enterprise do but everything else costco said is correct so I've no reason to doubt that. either way I would go with IMG. the problem you have is we are now in late 2009. you can only import BRAND NEW 2007 or 2008 models. as you can imagine there are few if any cars that would fit that bill now. The reason for this is simple. when R35s were put up for eligibility for compliance that was applied for as low volume new. most cars on SEVS are on the list elligible as low volume used. Like S15s for example. as they are elligible as low volume used you can import used S15s up till nissan started selling them here. that is not the case for R35s. any R35 you import under sevs must be brand spanking new and must be a 2007 or 2008 model bought new, by you, from a nissan dealer. if you bought the car at auction with say 150kms on it you may find it gets knocked back as tecnhically it's now used. as someone bought it from a dealer, then put it up for sale as a USED car at auction. even if it's really low kms and still wrapped in plastic, technically it's used. due to intense pressure on both DOTARS and customs from nissan to stop grey imports of R35s they have been very strict. to the point of insanity. I imported on R35 GTR back in 2008 as a race rally import. It was a legitimate application and has since competed in numerous tarmac rally events including rally tas and targa tasmania among many others. since it was a race only import IT WAS NOT SUBJECT TO THE NEW CAR RULE. it was however a brand new car with 80kms as delivered by nissan. still wrapped in plactic and not driven at all on the road in japan (trailered directly from the dealership to the boat). however nissan put so much pressure on customs they didn't even bother to check what type of VIA (vehicle import approval) the car was brought in under and sent a full team of investigators up from melbourne to sydney docks to try and prove that this car was not new and therefore not eligible for import. haha, had they done a simple 2 minute check and read the bloody VIA properly they would have seen that this car was not intended for SEVS compliance and thus not subject to that restriction anyway. they wasted a week or so of my time with the car sitting on the docks. they came out a number of times and took numerous photos acting very secret squirrel about the whole thing and did in fact allege that the car was used! this despite the fact that I bought it brand new from a dealer in japan and had the invoices etc to prove it. we could have bought a used one but wanted it straight away and we had ordered that car in 2007. in the end of course it worked out ok, and had that car been imported with a SEVS VIA I would have contested their finding and won anyway as that car was as brand new as it can possibly get. in many years of importing cars under 15yo rule, old LVIS/CPA scheme, SEVS, Race/Rally I have never experienced anything like it. they practically wanted to put a bore scope in my rear end. my point is do not even think about trying to slip one in under the radar as it just will not happen. there is and has been intense political pressure on the various government bodies involved in car importation to limit R35 imports as much as possible and they did a damn good job of it. even guys like me who always operate 100% within the rules and the spirit of the rules were looked at very closely. it pissed me off to no end to be treated that way, but having done nothing wrong I didn't have anything to worry about. As you mentioned the state of the AUD makes it not viable as well. it was only barely viable when the AUD was buying 100yen, now at 75 it's not worth it. I would suggest that it may well be worth looking to buy a lightly used JDM R35 that is already imported into Aus. you may well pick one up for a fair price and capitalise on the original importer having bought it when the AUD was strong against the yen.

yep this is what the guys who built my current N1 nur based engine did. deburr block, enlarge/port internal oil returns, oil restrictor in head oil feed, and recommended running a trust sump extension and extended pickup which I am. also fitted mines cam cover baffles and run a 3 litre catch tank with 22mm hose to it, vented to atmosphere. hopefully it will work well enough for it's expected 350 or so awkw and circuit use. they have built tons and tons of RB26s so I trusted their recommendations.

yeah it could well be a vent. it's certainly not as low in the head as it could be, and it does semm to have another small fitting on there (for a pressure/vacuum gauge perhaps?).

I reckon if when the engine is apart you enlarge the internal oil returns, and put a smaller restrictor in the oil feed to the head then the battle is nearly won. apart from that the common sense stuff of baffled/enlarged or both for the sump and sensible oil catch tank arrangement and it should live a happy life.

love them both. if we were talking the monaro 427 that was supposed to go into production at $250K or an R35. I would have to say I'd go the monaro. I love my japanese cars and have had heaps of them inc R35 GTR but deep down I love my aussie monaro and reckon the 427 would be a goer with all the gear that was on them. one of my favourite cars and i've been in some good ones over the years! I was gutted that they never went ahead with making more. I mean just look at the engine in the thing... and the interior.... hmmmm.

I can't believe you looking at RX7s troy. don't tell me i've been a good influence with all my talk of how long my RX7 has been between engine swaps? yeah I reckon it'll last 3 days of you and snowclown. you're both pretty soft really. the T-hachi-hachi would be pretty gay though unless you can crank the boost to about 25psi and the rev limit to about 10,000rpm. in that case make sure you ask for the first lap as that's about all you'll get! it will leave 2 nice black lines all the way round the ring. and another thin brown line all the way around your ring.... S14 is probably a safe bet. but the SR20 is not exactly the powerhouse of reliability either and an S2000 is an awesome engine wrapped in a massively camp car. perfect for you 2 fun boys to get around in with the top down looking like a pair of gay german tourists in town for a nambla convention. nothing is camper than two blokes in a convertible. it might get you back to dance central in hamburg in time to see kraftwerk. just mind the cd stacker in ein trunk dumpkopf. just take over your bigger TD06 set-up in hand luggage and chuck that on the RX7. nice punchy 250rwkw it will be good.

eastern europe..... it's a kind of europe... ps, I shouldn't laugh, I'm a tad eastern bloc myself...

I just had a call actually from a mate living somewhere in georgia. wants to know if you can tune the nos jets in this beast. needs a bit more kick as it comes on to cabbage boost...

don't forget this one piece of advice. and I could go on and on...

guilt toy driving his new 'steed' at the local drive through...