Beer Baron

you want to know how to get bitches in japan? i just turn up to that ma-fker and open things up with a big KONICHIWA BITCHES! never fails. does he have some kind of lazy eye problem? the only good bit was. "when asking japanese people what they like they might be embarrassed as all they like is beer and video games." and he says. that's good. ask them if they like beer and video games. and when he says "some might say their hobby is sleep" sounds plausible from what I've seen in japan, many practice the sport of sleep walking, sleep standing and sleeping in macdonalds. I couldn't bare to watch it all. just skipped through a few bits to see if it got good. it didn't

it should do. they run with other e-manage and you can use the E-01's screen and controller to tune just like you can use the hand controller on a power FC. it's pretty cool.

ok, now the pic is better. and I agree that's the way it probably goes. but again, hardly anyone with a race car returns their catch tank to the inlet pre turbo as no one wants that oily mist running through turbo, intercooler and engine if you can avoid it. sure the vacuum may be desirable but I can think of dozens and dozens and dozens of cars that i've seen/worked on/owned/driven that were setup without that with no problem. and as for routing the catch tank outlet to the airbox i've NEVER seen that done. no body would ever have their catch tank venting into the airbox before their air flow meters. it's always done between maf or pod and turbo inlet but again most, particularly in japan just vent the tank to atmosphere with a little filter so that is the rocker covers are under vacuum conditions they are not sucking back in unfiltered air. and nearly all disable/block/remove the PCV. I know I have and everything is fine.

yeah, it is hard to tell a guy who does cars for a living what to do. many of them look at customers as retards with wallets and wont take kindly to some advice you got off some kids off the internet. BUT, i can tell you as well that for certain standard GTR BOVS that are in working order will EASILY hold 19pound and like andriano said they can hold a shitload more than that. I would be comfortable running them at up to 25 psi on small ish turbos. obviously it's not just a matter of pressure as a T51R at 25psi will need a lot more air bypassed than a pair of N1s at 25psi, but as far as just holding against the boost then it doesn't matter, pressure is pressure. bypassing/flowing enough is another thing, but the twin GTR bovs will flow a fair enough for most. failing that the big daddy trust Type R is hard to go past.

yeah it certainly makes things easier. shame some fkwit stole my set of 18s. they were actual wheels from the falken nurburgring car. have R34 GTR NUR 24H stamped into the forging and had the twin valve. I got them in japan and had them on my 33 when some arse monkey stole it along with it's superlight dry carbon wing blade and a few other nice bits. none of it was ever recovered, sadly the 17inch version I have doesn't have the twin valves. RIP to my old car and it's nice wheels.

it's funny looking at that porsche it just screamed american to me. I know it's LHD but that's not the give away. it's the cage design. the side intrusion design to be specific. so american. they all seem to do it that way with the ladder type side intrusion. I guess it's come because oval racing is their premier tin top racing and that cage design filters down to other categories. you would never see one like that in aus in any category. except benms lone nascup car which of course was US built or at least designed.

my god if I actually had any space and any decent money I'd start with: E30 M3 Evo - such a great car to drive. a mate has one in japan (they can drive LHD cars there) and I am insanely jealous) Gallardo Superleggara (took one for a spin recently and the noise is just insane and all the little bits of carbon are awesome) F360 Challange Straddalle (yeah getting on a bit next to a 430 but they are cool) I would also re-buy pretty much every GTR I've owned to have at once the complete collection (i did have 32, 34 and 35 at one point but briefly) I would keep the RZ RX-7 or maybe get a spirit R for something pretty much the same but a little different I would get Hayashi-san at Garage Saurus to build be up a serious R32 GTR I would get Nagata-san at Top Secret to build me something stupid, like the V12 Supra, or the V8 GTR he made etc. (though next to Saurus top secrets work looks a bit cheap, true). I would have for track fun my little GTST with 2.2L SR20 with TD06 or 3037 making around 300rwkw, with sequential box etc. would be great fun, and LIGHT. 1980s Alfa GTV6, great car and amazing sound track Get the DC2 type R in there, still a favourite drive and the EP3 Civic type R (JDM model not sold in aus) Then the old favourites, Lambo Countach in white of course and a lamba Diablo SV. my god do they still have presence on the road. it has that do not fck with me look about it! my "take the wife somewhere nice" would be an Aston Martin, V8 Vantage, just a nice car with nice engine note and a Lotus Esprit S4S, one of my favourite looking cars. I would also find the bloke that bought the 427 monaro for 1mil and promptly buy it off him. love that a few other monaros in there to, including an HK for me too. Ford Sierra Cosworth of 90s vintage, they were a weapon in their day. and a 997 GT3 porsche for some winding road fun ok, I've said too much! Basically my advice is drive as many cars as you can. if you have a mate with a cool car, ask for a steer! Pretty much anyone i meet if they seem sensible and trust worthy I will let them have a steer of any of my cars, because I love to share the driving experience. telling a bloke who loves cars how awesome your car is to drive is just cruel, but let him drive it and then talk to him about it and share that enjoyment. one of the best bits about owning a cool car is letting a mate drive it and watching his face as he first feels that thrust, or feels how sharp the turn in is, or how much grip it's got, or how nice it sounds at 6,000rpm etc. so the two pieces of advice are, drive as many cars as you can, and let as many people as you can drive yours. both parts are equally rewarding.

they have been for years. I have a set of NT03 Ms that were made for their 02 Nurburgring R34 24 hr races and they have 2 valves. and they've been making those long before that even. it's also used so you can fit gauge on one and air bottle/compressor to the other. and yes you can use it to try and purge 02.

lol, hope you get to keep the old one too.... then you now have a "track" front end and a "road" front end. or should that be "valet" front end and "Jeff" front end....

I even like the uras type lights on this one where they are covered. it would probably help the aero a bit as without that nice smooth cover it would for sure create drag or turbulence.

the GT500 cars have dry sump so very different in what they need. they can control things very nicely with their set-up where as with wet sump and standard type pump you are always being reactive in whatever you do. the pic you drew is definitely wrong though. the pipe going across the front of the cam covers goes from the thermostat housing, it's carrying coolant not oil. it's not connecting to the fitting on the sump.

i have driven one particular set-up that had it so bad it wasn't funny. it was an RB26 with the large R34 N1s but high mounted with custom piping etc big cams lots of good work but the shuffle my god man! the shuffle. first it sounded like a steam train going up a high. chuff chuff.... chuff chuff...chuff chuff.... chuff chuff...chuff chuff.... chuff chuff... the it would make some little sqwaking noises like it was a spaceship taking off. and from idle to about 6,000rpm it felt like it had all of 50kw max. but from 6,000 to 8,5000rpm it had 380awkw!!! the thing would scare the crap out of you at 6,000rpm as it just took off but it would literally take ages to get there. worst case of shuffle/reversion/whatever you want to call it, that i've ever experienced.

indexing the plugs is definitely a good idea. not sure how much gains you will get but it certainly wont do any harm. and yes you should be running as much gap as you can without missfire, maybe reduce it a little back from that point for a small margin of safety. the bigger the gap the longer the spark so the better things go. but of course if gap is too big spark can't jump the gap and you get it arcing out and missfires.

your tuner is flat out lying or just does not know what he's talking about. Power FC DOES NOT RETARD IGNITION ON DETECTING ENGINE KNOCK. I hear this myth all the time. the factory ecu certainly can do it, but power fc does not which is why a good tune is important. it is possible your high knock readings are being caused by a faulty knock sensor. but if it was real knock do not think the power FC will save you by reducing timing. cause it most definitely wont.

lol, there's a hole in that housing where the port should be mate... hehe. that will be nice. should slot those housings into my road car...

as usual Gerry is on the money. plus don't forget you have to actually be there in the UK with the car for 12 months. they ask for your passport and deduct each day you are out of the country. so if you are planning to just register it to yourself there and leave it in the garage while you are off working and spending lots of time in aus then it's going to take a shitload more than 12months for you to accumulate 1 year of being in the UK with the car. by the time you add freight, clearance, 10% GST, 10% Duty and the 33% LCT then it's not so cheap anymore and it's a pommy one with a dash in mph...

yeah you want some of these bad boys. it's the wtg for 180. in fact if I ever do a 180 it will be a replica of that one. I saw it when it was debuted at tokyo auto salon a few years back and it was awesome then, and it's awesome now! lol, and nomuken even signed shit for me next to it, then pulled funny faces while I took pictures. fun times.

well obviously the car needs to be presented with stock parts for compliance. it was not too bad as all the interior was stock, wheels etc were easy but there was still a fair degree of work in it. if you ever plan on importing a modified car make sure you discuss with your chosen compliance workshop first and be absolutely up front about everything the car has. no point them getting the car and finding out you lied about half the gear on it. that will just piss them off.

i know the stuff. A few GTI-Rs I imported had it on the quarter windows from japan. if it's a problem I wouldn't change the mounting. Just get a scalpel and cut a small circle out of the 'tint'. do it the same on each side for symmetry lol and so you can swap sides as needed. it will look neat, just find something circular to trace around like a 20c coin etc. or if no confident drop into a tint place and they will do it easy, cost maybe $10. and wont look bad at all.

yeah dude, definitely don't put it anywhere outside the car. on the front bar is insane! and definitely too low. it will get nailed sooner or later. attach to roll cage with zip ties or tape if lazy. it also means you can switch sides when you need to. point it out the rear quarter windows. window glass even tinted is no problem.

they look great. should be good on the track.

yeah!! go the stack! troy likes to have a stack too. just not quite the same....

I decided to move this thread into motorsport as that seems to be the place for all the builds these days. I know it's not an out and out track car but was built to do well on street, track and strip. and so far has done lots of different events in the hands of the new owner. it's a little bit different but was great fun none the less..

the full info on my car with specs is here:

interesting to compare this to my old GTR. very similar mods. mine was: R32 GTR with R33 GTR brand new crate motor Head porting by prime garage tomei expreme manifolds tomei expreme dump pipes tomei 600cc injectors nismo fuel pump nismo air flow meters Tomei pon cams 260/260 9.15mm trust full piping kit inc intake etc. HKS GT-SS turbos Apexi Power FC trust profec B II trust intercooler front pipes and 3.5 inch exhaust made 303kw at the same boost as you 17psi and on a set of R34 GTR 18inch wheels with average tyres ran a 11.7 @ 120mph with lots more to go in driver and car! BUT check out the response difference. at 4,000rpm you are making about 105kw at the same RPM I'm making 160kw at 4,400rpm you are making about 160kw and I'm making 210kw at 5,000rpm you are making about 215kw and I'm making 250kw. at 5,600 rpm you are making about 250kw and I'm making about 275kw (you are starting to catch up) at 6,200 rpm you are making dead on 280kw and I'm making about 295kw (getting even closer) and at 6,800 rpm you are making about 295kw and I'm making my peak of 303kw (very close now) at 7,400rpm we are just about dead even on 300kw. Yours revs a bit harder. mine was a fresh engine just run in so we kept revs down under 8,000rpm. we both have very similar set-ups and very similar AFRs and boost levels. what does your boost curve look like? I would have thought mine may even suffer a little in response as I have a 1.2mm tomei head gasket which lowers compression a little. the only real differences are I have mild cams and headwork. which seems to have done it's job. my graph: there may even be more to be gained from yours response wise with more tuning (timing) and maybe some cams? for a very similar set-up it does give away a lot in the mid-range. as much as 50kw at the wheels in some points.