Beer Baron

guys if you want I can sell you some. I buy them from japan direct though. trust ones or HKS ones. both come in either 4mm or 6mm. they are not expensive for a small part but buy the time I order and post them etc I'd say HKS ones about $20 and trust ones about $15 each. unless you buy a couple then it would be cheaper. I will say one thing. the genuine trust and HKS ones are actually made to handle both vacuum and boost conditions. I've seen heaps of the cheap non genuine ones crack/split and just generally fail as they are piss weak. even the genuine ones can go hard/brittle over time but they are miles better. edit: yeah trust ones $14 for 4mm and $16 for 6mm and HKS ones are $20 for either 4mm or 6mm. not cheap, but it's an option if you can't find any locally.

yep, delivery date is mid july. will get some pics for you then.

the muffler looks a lot like a lambros hi tech one. do you know if the exhaust was bought/made in aus or was it on the car from japan? get more pics of what is under the car, not just the muffler.

OS triple are good. I had one in my 32 for a while. I liked it. replaced it with an OS twin and was just as happy. it was a pretty brutal clutch though (the triple). solid centre so not much give either.

nooo. on the track generally you will be lowering from your street pressure as they will rise with the added loads of track driving. it's really down to the type of tyre, type of use, manufactures recommendation and personal preference as to what is best on the street. as a general rule the more pressure you put in the 'sharper' it will feel handling wise. it will feel like it turns better and it will transmit more bumps etc to the cabin. over a certain point though traction will be reduced as the reduced compliance in the tyre means it will loose traction more easily. less pressure will give you a little more roll and give a nicer ride with less bumps etc transmitted to the cabin. too low though and it will damage tyres sidewalls and will give poor handling and traction, the trick is to find the sweet spot. I would start at around 30-35psi all round for street driving for most regular radial street tyres. adjust a little up or down within that range and see what you prefer. keep and eye on the wear too.

exactly. he is on holidays. he'd decided that if the car is not good enough for consistent wins then why bother. as he is the new senna why should he put up with sub par machinery? wanker. as I said before, guys like webber drive the balls off the thing no matter what they are given. hell even sato put the effort in (even it if was a bit misguided and lacked the talent to go with it) when he was running up the back and mid pack. lewis is just another bloke that unless he has the best toys he just does not want to play. so he just turns up, puts in the minimum required to get his fat pay cheque and give his daddy something to do. I can remember back to when schuey had what was far from an ideal car and he was all business. all focus. his arm candy was at home watching the race on telly whilst doing the ironing where she should be. no distractions at the track and no bullshit. just hard work. hamilton always has to have his gf out there perhaps so people will stop accusing him of being gay. fact is hamilton is having trouble consistently beating kovalinen which shows just how little effort he's putting in. looking back at results, china, lewis went from 9th to 6th but kovie went from 12th to 5th to beat him. at monaco lewis qualied 20th vs 7th for kovie. at the sphincter of the universe he just beat him by one spot but was out qualied and we know what happend last weekend. his only half decent stab has been bahrain. when he was actually making an effort he was spanking kovie at every meet, both qualie and race. now it's tit for tat between them. the REAL top drivers like schumacher would put in 100% if you gave them a billy cart to drive. and in a year or 2 they'd have helped you turn that billy cart into a front runner. hamilton took a top level team and car, drove it with varying degrees of competence (and plenty of f**kups) for a year or two and now that things are on the downslide he is on vacation.

i've used both. to sum it up the coppermix will hold as much power as the gmax but is miles more user friendly. quieter than the gmax too.

single key set-up sounds like winner too. the stock ones are definitely pussy.

hey mike, if you need new bits to repair the crank i have some genuine nissan half moon keys.

same as an RB26 then...

yes everyone knows i'm jealous of fatz. he is like the james bond of motorsport..... ie, has a puncey accent and drinks gay cocktails...

it's injectors. what happens is when you rev they are running. as you quickly step off the throttle for a split second they all shut and are quiet for a moment, then as the revs fall and return to idle they start again. GTR 440cc injectors are very noisy. I have to lol at the number of people who have told me they have noisy tappets etc when it was just normal RB26 injector noise. tappa tappa tappa. i have no idea what the second noise is. get it checked out. but without hearing the car, what you described first is the injectors.

I'm not sure where that comes from? the ones I've seen measure a small amount of vacuum and will read to almost 2 bar of positive pressure. ie atmosphere plus 1.8-1.9 bar of boost. I can double check this but I'm fairly certain the ones I've played with read to near enough to 2 bar positive pressure. also the djetro does not ship with any map sensor/s, you have to buy it/them separately. you also need to buy nipple/s and the harnesses. none of that stuff is included if you just order the Djetro power FC.

I would say kimi is relaxed enough to have power naps on the straights.... mmmm micro sleep.

lol, 1993 FD with 25,000kms... muhahaha. it must still have the original tyres, pads etc with those kms. it would almost certainly have to be one owner car too and therefore have all supporting log books. let me guess... they don't have them. better check that you can comply early model FDs. I'm not sure that you can as they were sold here. afaik only late models (like 2000+) are eligible.

honestly. save your money and use good old plain compressed air. I've tried both in an R35 and oilbeefhooked if I can tell the difference. edit: also don't worry about topping up with plain air etc. that's fine. it just dilutes the nitrogen a little and has no ill effects.

ok, now this makes more sense. I doubt they would ever reveal a long running stig. in reality it could well have been half a dozen different blokes over the years. it's encouraging though that MS can still smash their dicky little test track record in a car that as you say should not be the quickest on the list.

power FC bug. no doubt about it. you have described it exactly. some people have had success with adding grounding wires in particular add additional/better grounding point to the ignitor. search power FC missfire and I'm sure you'll find it. and yes it happens even with 8.04a version PFC.

thank you. if you have an oil cooler, and add 2 litres to your oil change. it will be 2 litres over full. which is bad. if you want 1 litre over, just add 1 litre. no matter how many oil coolers you have.

the bubbling and popping noise is more often air bubbles in the coolant rail that runs along next to the fuel rail. it's most likely air in your cooling system, pocket of coolant are boiling because of it, hence the bubbling noises. bleed the head via the bleed screw and see if that helps.

yes they are there to protect the solenoid, the map sensor or any gauge sensor. they are a good idea. I wouldn't say they are essential but if you can get some and fit them then by all means do it. they ensure only clean air gets to your device. just watch they don't get blocked or split/leak. it does happen.

no idea. I only have the smh article my gf sent me this morning to go on though. it could be a joke....

drive an R35 as it is first, then try and say they with a straight face.... I honestly cannot imagine anyone who had driven an R35 properly would wish a manual box on it. like I said I love the box on my R32 and many other cars I've owned but I wouldn't want it anywhere near my R35...

from everything i've personally seen the original hard core launch on the JDM cars is quicker. I know they quoted quciker times from the version 2 cars but I have a suspicion that was just to tame peoples dissapointment at having the nice 4800rpm LC removed. on the JDM cars I've done it on they all launched very smoothly with some wheel spin and all pulled between 0.9-1.1G on launch according to the dash. no times from me but they were all insanley fast and smooth. I could be completely wrong though as the official word is the ADM cars have better launch, more power etc etc but the small amount of evidence i've seen seems to suggest otherwise. as for speedo difference. every type of car i've tested with a factory calibrated speedo was between 5km and 10km out at 80kp/h. so it's pretty normal.

small question. what laps did vettel stop on? and when did webber stop?