Beer Baron

tell the truth. you shift at 7 cause you are flat out gay. you like the company of men. hairy ones with presents for you. still can't deny you are a good looking bloke and have a toit body. yesh toit. turbo is shit too. made heaps of noises when it was banging around loose in the boot of my car. at one point a spanner i had lying in the boot got jammed into the compressor wheel and when I pulled it out the farking head of it was gone. if you find my spanner head in your turbo, engine or cat then kindly post it back to me you cnt as without it my spanner is about as useful as your tiny penis. thank you.

well strike me down if the full story isn't completely farken different to the first one. so the real answer is: the car was dyno checked (not tuned) at godzilla and made X amount of power the car was fiddled with including cas being misaligned resulting in base timiing being out. car was driven to CNJ again to be dyno checked. car was massively down on power but of course it was as it was in a different configuration and on a different dyno car was driven to mercury where the story came out about what it had been through and where the problem may well be. problem was fixed car was back to it's original performance. I think the main issue here is someone needs to understand the definition of a tune.

footage and sound seem good. still would like to see it on track. many cameras look great for a spin around the block but how well they can handle the g force, wind noise, vibration, and loud exhuast noise of a race car is the real test.

oil cooler doesn't really help with oil starvation directly but it helps keep RB26 engines alive on the track. without one a hard driven GTR will heat it's oil well past it's useable temp. then the oil stops lubricating properly, film breaks etc and it becomes very thin. hence engine failure. the extra volume in the system compounds the cooling advantage too as there is physically more in the system but again doesn't really help with the pick-up getting starved during cornering etc. but it's a must have none the less.

clean it, then heat with oxy torch or similar (gas cooktop may do it) until it's dull red or even cherry red (obviously don't melt it!) then let it cool down or can dunk it in some water if you are impatient. you can just hold them with pliers but rotate to heat the bit that was held by the pliers or hang it from something with higher melting point works too. try and heat as evenly as possible. not need to get it to orange or white hot. a nice red is good enough. you should do it each time a washer is removed and re-fitted as they get work hardened by being done up tight. annealing them makes it soft again. works for copper and alluminium washers too. doesn't work on steel obviously.

the washers are (or should be) domed to fit one way. are they in the right way? though I wouldn't think having the dome the wrong way would make them leak but it might. also they are probably work hardened and I would take them out and anneal them first then re-install at the correct torque. i usually anneal all copper washers before installing as they are often hardened during the manufacturing processes.

tokyo mart is about as good as it gets. a few random chinese/korean/japanese supermarkets in the city near my place carry some japanese sweets but you need to just hit up a few as it's a bit hit and miss. stock does vary from time to time at tokyo mart too.

You can buy a prepaid phone and sim card from SOME places without an alien card. just a passport but they all have different requirements and some will require an address in japan etc. it can be a bit of a hassle. personally I just got a mate in japan who had an adress and an alien card to sign up my account for me, but I do remember another mate doing it on his own, with some limited help but it took about half a day (4 hours+). really unless you are staying more than say 4 weeks, or planning to go there at least twice a year for the foreseeable future then the hire phone is the way to go for most people. the only reason I stuck with my pre k one was that it was nice to keep the same number from trip to trip, and I liked the horrid old school phone, and being pre-paid made it easy to control what I spent (and it could call local and international at different rates where as the hire phones if you go international you get stung hard on local calls).

an update for anyone interested. in the end we did get the bang and olufsen gear. got the beosound 5, and the beolab 9 loudspeakers (or might have ordered the 10s in the end, I forget now), and some more speakers and multiroom gear, another remote (cost about 2 bloody grand!) and even got their beocom2 cordless phones which are kick ass. http://www.bang-olufsen.com/beocom2 in plain aluminium of course. I'll let you guys know what it's like once it all arrives and is installed. the beosound 5 system is pretty cool and gives lossless sound from CD unlike MP3 etc. the only real downside of course was that it smashed the 20k budget. on the plus side I think the BO gear will hold it's value fairly well and should last forever just about.

any aussie dual band GSM phone will not work in japan. BUT ANY 3G phone will work fine. I've used both aussie vodafone and aussie optus sim cards in japan with no problem at all (except for the massive bills afterwards!). just make sure you have global roaming enabled by your phone company before you leave aus. having said that since you get absolutely raped on the cost the best idea is still to buy or rent a japanese cell phone. also get one that can only make local calls. as the ones that can make international calls charge a shitload for both the local and the international calls. and the local only ones can of course still RECEIVE international calls (even though they mostly wont mention that). so then anyone international can call you and it wont cost you anything, and you can still call any japanese cell phone or landline. and for international calls use your aussie mobile, or calling card or skype depending on your chosen budget to convenience compromise. but bottom line is in japan 3G aussie phone = ok. dual band GSM = no good. I for a few years now have had a japanese cell phone that I kept and just recharged when I was in japan. it was Tsuka pre K (pre paid) but they have switched over to softbank now. I've also hired from http://www.jalabc.com/rental/domestic_eng/index.html for my gf when over there. the ABC service is great as you pick-up and drop off at the airport and the cost is pretty reasonable. plus you get JAL mileage points. SUGOI!

exactly. well said. yes rotors eat oil like fuel (and they eat lots of both) and they can and do fail if poorly built, poorly maintained or poorly treated. but like any good engine if properly built/tuned/maintained/driven then they will live a happy life. and worst you'll need to tare it down every couple of years and replace a few minor items which wont cost the earth. and when going well they area stonking good engine. the built 13B in my FD runs very strong. really torquey and the bottom end from 2,500rpm is surprising, as is the rush from 5,000 to 8,000.

ATS carbon twin = excellent clutch, only driven 2 but liked them and heard good reports. OS twin = good for the money. and easy and cheap-ish to rebuild with genuine OS parts (no need to re-line second hand plates with new friction material etc). I've had a few and a triple plate as well. Nismo twin = excellent clutch too. probably the best street/track compromise clutch. ORC also make very good clutches. a little more exxy than OS but in my eyes just a bit nicer too. I've even used a blitz/ORC single which was awesome (made like a multi plate but with just one plate if you know what I mean) I haven't tried the NPC but looking at the pics it's made the right way and has the right ingredients to be a very nice clutch. I would certainly consider one. those extreme clutches are shithouse. I can't count the number of failures i've seen in everything from silvias, to GTI-R pulsars, to skylines. they are just shit. I wouldn't normally generalise about any brands product like that but I think i've had enough first hand experience of those failures to say so. and having driven on them they are not even nice to drive. shit shit shit shit shit. be thankful it's f**ked now so you can move on to something nice. for your car I'd probably just go the OS or ORC twin. or look at price of ATS carbon twin and the NPC twin too. if the NPC twin is less than an OS or ORC twin then seriously consider one. they look very good.

clockwise = harder. knocking is not normal. something is worn.

the money in big brake kits is often in the rotors and hats and hardware. so getting cheap calipers but finding you still need expensive rotors and compromised mounting you'll end up spending near as much money but at the end you still have those cheap callipers. lug mount is not the way to go unless they bolt straight on. either find some suitable radial mount calipers or tread the proven paths. yes they cost a little more but brakes aren't cheap. many have tried to come up with budget big upgrades. tried and failed!

lovely looking fuel set-up and fairly nice looking power curve too. it will be pretty aggressive to drive.

for starters they are not really an upgrade and the flanges are different. complete waste of time and money. there are plenty of actual bolt on turbo options for GTRs in both single or twin set-ups to suit every possible power/response/budget compromise you can think of. use one of them.

always go back to the last thing you changed before this problem started as your first check point. in this case all signs point to the cheap-o walbro pump as being the culprit. sometimes they seem to work fine, sometimes they don't. however a lot of the time it's in the installation. are you sure it's installed correctly in the tank, pick-up facing the right way, nice and low, no kink in the pick-up or any obstruction etc? and check the wiring too.

yeah the factory fan is a bastard for power sucking (and noise!) but it cools miles better than 99% of thermo set-ups I've seen on RB powered cars. almost without fail every guy I've seen switch over to a thermo or thermo's has had problems.

hey big boy. I was gutted I couldn't get out there on friday to see the beast. but so pleased it went well. R32s trying to swap ends under brakes is a very common trait. a few things that will help. what are the current camber and toe settings front and rear? if you don't already some toe in on the rear will help stop the back from trying to overtake you round the outside! also driving style helps too. the R32s do not want you doing any turning under brakes. trailing any brake as you turn in will see it want to swap ends. this is especially prevalent at turn 1/2 oran park as the track slopes down a little that way too. after you've done any alignment and driver adjustments then look at springs/shocks/bars/geometry changes. anyway, spinning off a few times at least shows you are trying and no doubt when you get the hand of it you'll be quick. well done.

can you? yes. should you? no. well not with a stock ecu and a new engine. at idle and on cruise the car will be running excessively rich. so make sure you do not leave the car idling or at steady state (small-moderate throttle openings, low load, low rpm) cruising for any prolonged period of time. you should be doing that anyway but with it being all the more rich the last think you want is all that fuel washing down the bores.

look, if you had owned 5 GTRs and been through 3 different RB26 rebuilds and had built up relationships with various tuners and workshops and suppliers then it's probably a reasonable idea. but since you don't know a lot about GTRs, or engine builds or any of the specific problems they both have I would say you are leaving yourself open to a world of hurt. given how stupid cheap all model GTRs are right now there is just not a good reason to make your first GTR one that isn't working. enough of them go from great to broken as it is! at least start with one that works. if down the track you decide you want a project then by all means go for it. but I just think it's a bad place to be with your first GTR. there are so many nice, neat, running, cheap GTRs out there.

why ask for advice then if you only want to listen to people who tell you it's a great idea? as someone with experience with lots of engine builds I can tell you $4.5K will get you bugger all when it comes to an engine that is stuffed and full of ceramic. especially since this engine has had turbine wheel through it most likely head is throw away, block too, new head and new block, new pistons and if you're smart new oil heat exchange and new intercooler, and then start on the rebuild, plus labour to remove and re-fit and the bill starts mounting up. but hey, if a workshop that is looking for business told you it's true then it must be. I can think of plenty of people who get 'quotes' from a workshop only to end up with a bill at double the original price. did either of those quotes include 2 new turbos? because you would have to be retarded to put some ceramic time bombs back on your brand new engine. so figure at least $2500 for some steel wheel garrets. that's half your rebuild budget gone just on the turbos. but what would I know.....

personally I have a rule. if a car is worth less than $25K in aus then don't import. the fixed costs of importing/complying/registering a car from japan run to $8-$10K. so even if you got a car for free you are looking at $8-$10K on the road depending on the model. so if you buy a car for say $1000 in japan you have now spent $10,000 on a $1,000 car which is now way over capitalised. You can stretch this rule down to say $20,000 value cars. but considering how cheap R33 GTSTs are these days I don't think it's worth doing unless you really want something that's hard to find here.

actually, i've changed my mind. it sounds like an awesome idea. I say go for it. buy this otherwise immaculate, non-wound back, good grade 33 GTR with blown engine, get the $3K halfcut or the $6K forged rebuild and please post a thread up about the process. it'll be great.

well they are even more plentiful in decent condition.