Beer Baron

nice roof! where did you get that bad boy from? I want one for my silvia.

lol, yes when they take gear to TAS, it's always a good idea to go past the stand on the sunday afternoon. they don't like taking shit back and will happily sell at a nice discount. good score. I regret not buying a set of each that first year they introduced them. the best thing about those covers is being dry carbon they shouldn't fade, warp or discolour the way the knock offs do. all the knock offs I've seen are NOT dry carbon. the only other really cool ones are the Super GT dry carbon kevlar covers. they make a 26 look positively short!

lol you take that back about Russell! he's as Australian as Ampol!

the VT V6 with a supercharger is a complete waste of time into your 32. they are rubbish. go the LS for sure if you are going to that effort. you may have thought it a great motor at the time but I'm guessing you don't have a lot to compare it to as they are pants. I'm sure people in east berlin thought their worked wartburg 353 went hard until they drove a reliant robin too...

he's posted in this thread. send him a pm, tell him what you want and he will tell you the cheapest way to get it. he buys from yahoo and from parts wholesalers etc. you pay him a small fee and for that he will use his contacts to buy you the parts, send them to you and will save you some ¥.

great choice of cams mate. and they look excellent. you're right on the price of tomei springs. even the type A's are $$, I have the type B set and that was silly money and the type C is off the planet. I have heard that the supertech springs are excellent too.

nope, it's definitely not a cut out or vent. it's the same dealie as the kagotani one. a negative pressure scoop/inverted wing type thing and it's all sealed, no hole anywhere. trust me I have held one in my hands... I just think the angle of it may be a little to severe for best results but again I could be wrong on that point.

it's the box that's farked. send it to me, I need a spare one. cheers.

looks like one the pins that holds the pads? call nissan. take the one you still have down there and they will get you one.

earls sell a oil-state too as do mocal. but it's easiest if you can get one built in to the take off or the filer mount, like Trust ones are.

well it's hard to say as I never drove the same set-up minus the head. all I can say is the ones I've used so far I loved. the one about to go in will be the test. hopefully it will be good. opinion is split pretty evenly on the combustion chamber shape, some argue that removing those pads is an old school approach and takes more than it gives, but tetsu has tried all ways and does what he says works. so I was inclined to trust his advice and go with it. I don't know that there is much in it either way.

this will explain it nicely.

lol, do not temp me (or troy for that matter) we may just take you up on it! the only matter is can your seat accommodate me. when I'm booking flights I have to ask at check in: "hey mister... on the plane I'm going to need 2 seats..... for the twins... " I guess at least if I break yours we can build you another one out of all my bits... then we can store it for you in aus and you can come and break it at phillip island, or eastern creek or something. in fact next time you're in sydney give me a shout and come drive something here. I always have something half worthy. not quite GT viper worthy, but fun all the same.

oh, and my own experience. I've now had 4 heads done at prime garage. first one had squish zone left on both side and it went into the grey 32 that I sold last year. the next 2 heads had squish removed on one side and one went to a friend for his car, and one is going into my current 32. the fourth my mate mark has in his silver 32 and it was a street car with N1 turbos so it had squish left too.

yeah, the pics I took were before he started on the exhaust side but as you said you can see where he's scribed the line for what's going to be removed. I was surprised too at just how much material is removed on the exhaust ports. you can see a pic of one finished or near finished near the bottom of the pics. the lump is completely gone. most guys I know who have tried and tested various porting jobs and have results to back it up tell me that they subscribe to a rough guide which is. street car/mild tuned car, leave squish/quench alone (the trade off cannot be capitalised on in a mild-ish set-up) street/track car or mid-tuned track car, remove squish zone on one side (this enables more timing and boost without detonation and the small trade off of low down response is not felt on the track) full on circuit/hard tuned/drag - remove squish completely. there is no noticeable problem with low down power and they can safely run more boost and timing for big powa. this is hotly debated though. sydneykid for one says it's BS.

no prob. yeah the guys there did an amazing job on cutting and welding the sump. in fact they did great work on all aspects of this build and 2 others for me. I don't regret getting the work done in japan one bit. plus travelling over there I got to see a lot of the work in progress. well whilst we are on head porting I'll add a few pics of mine for comparison. I do think yours looks excellent by the way. head porting is one area though that looks don't really tell you anything, you just need to try it and see. scary! luckily for me Tetsu has been porting RB26 heads for street, drag, circuit for nearly 20 years! he's literally done hundreds so he's learnt a lot through trial and error and he knows what works. he also built yoshioka's D1 AE86 engine which he had custom billet forged crank made for it (only 5 made), it makes something like 350ps, NA! with NOS and big revs. and it lasts. here are some pics of it. sorry some are not very good, I didn't take all of them note most of them are progress pics as I wasn't there to capture the finished product, but I have some of them finished, just not very good. here is a pic of the crank I mentioned too since we are on cranks. have a look at the difference between his custom crank and an HKS crank. he said the HKS ones is rubbish! lol, most people would kill to have it. I believe his engine revs to some astronomical rev limit well north of 10,000rpm. While we are talking heads, what did you do regarding squish/quench zones? and why? there are lots of different theories on this, it's probably the most debated part of RB26 head porting...

Supercharged 6 would give less room I reckon. the V6 is not much more compact than the 8 and the you add the supercharger (and cooler if you want etc). also depends on the type of blower you use. and what 6 would you use? cause the old holden 6 is absolute crap. and buy the time you buy the 6, trans, blower etc it would probably cost more then the LS 5.7 and make less power. waste of time.

well ones like the HKS Kansai one, and the garage kagotani one we use on marks R34 are NOT flat. they incorporate what is essentially an upside down wing. it provides front downforce. and plenty of it. have a look again at the kansai one, and the garage kagotani one. they are acutally diffusers unlike undertrays. splitters are a whole different thing again and are very useful too. Ant, they are not ducts. they are sealed. they don't extract or introduce air to the engine bay. they are aero devices. have a look at the shape. particularly the garage kagotani one (bottom pic). you can see the same is basically like an imprint of a wing. the kansai one looks like it's a little steep to my naked eye but I could be wrong, I'm no aero expert.

nice pics of the DS set-up. I could stare at that for a while... how cool are the HKS Kansai Dry Carbon Kevlar covers? I was in tokyo about 4 years ago when HKS Kansai released those covers (and the plain carbon fibre ones). I was speaking to the owner of HKS Kansai (turtle man!) and he was so proud of them and wanted me to understand that they were REAL DRY CARBON. I said, nice carbon covers. he said NO! Do-rai ka-bon keb-lar! ka-bon keb-lar! then he proceeded to take one off the wall, put it on the floor and jumped up and down on it. he then asked me to stand on it. I really didn't want to, but gingerly put some weight on it. it held. they are very nice and actually reasonable value considering they are not much mroe than all the rip off ones out there and the rip offs certainly are NOT dry carbon. I regret not buying some. as he was leaving he offered me the last 2 sets very cheap so he wouldn't have to take them all the way back to osaka with him. I already had more shit than I could carry and had in fact just lost 2 bags full of gear like trust jackets etc due to having too much, so I turned him down. d'oh. bad move. anyway, it looks like you are 9/10ths of the way finished. now the set-up can begin.

and you could always grind off the logo on the front if you wanted a more stealth look for your sump. just remove the lettering and leave the big oval and maybe get something engraved on that base?

yeah I considered local sump too but had heard a few leakage problems (not just hi octane, theirs is one of the best. I went trust. my only real criticism is that it may be a little low and perhaps could have better baffles, but the design is simple and apparently works well and it comes with a whole new pick-up to take away any problems with modding the stock one. pics for reference. I had it welded up at the shop in japan that did my build, prime garage. I also used a brand new R34 N1 Nur sump as it came on the crate motor I started with. I also remove the 34 gears and used R32 GTS4 gears in their place. if only we could get an aussie sump that is a good design and had a finish as good as the trust kit. the trust kit is quite cheap too. just a fair bit of labour to fit it and fit it properly. I wont post any more pics in your lovely thread. I'll make one of my own soon. carry on bomber man!

I have no experience with the R6s but I have tried the R888s in 19inch on an R35 on the track and they were not as good as even the factory dunlops. so I'd definitely give them a miss for your 35. if the R6s are supposed to be better they are certainly worth a try. for wheels consider some 19inch TE37s. Russ has used a set on his 35 and they looked and worked fine. a nice, good looking, tough wheel. being light and strong doesn't hurt either. the only downside of them is the price but they are not silly expensive for a good forged wheel.

crystal is in chiba near tokyo which is no where near nagoya. best off using streeter to buy you some on-line. just like in aus, in japan the cheap deals are on-line. get streeter to buy the stuff you want (he can even do it before you leave) then have him send it to your hotel so you can carry it home so save that $50 on postage.

GTR LSD is 2 way clutch type LSD. GTS4 ratio is 4.375:1 GTR is 4.111:1. the higher the first number in the ratio the quicker the acceleration, but lower top speed. I would just start with a GTR rear end. if you find it's ratio's unsuitable then try something else.

traitor!!!! kindly return my RAs and pepper mill now! ok, well now that i've calmed down a bit I reckon I can forgive you AND let you keep the RA's as long as I get a steer of the viper to ummm see how, *cough, bad it is...