Beer Baron

the 35 is every bit a drivers car. you just have to understand it has much higher limits than most and drive accordingly. turn off all TC/ESP and enjoy. It's very easy to slide and great to balance and steer it on the throttle. You can hold nice long, high speed slides in it and even pluck gears mid-slide without un-balancing the car. sure on road you don't get much sense of it as you can't sanely drive i fast enough to get it moving around, so in that respect on road you could argue a honda DC2 type R is more of a drivers car, or a 2 litre 1984 alfa GTV, BUT get the 35 on the track where you can exploit it's strenghs and it's character comes out. you just have to squeeze it a bit. steering is very comunicative, the engine is super responsive and the chassis does what you ask of it, with good pads and rotors the brakes are great too. it has all the boxes ticked really for a good driving experiece. and i'm a hack and I still find them easy to slide around. just ask russ! lol.

yeah there are tons of cool bits on the RZ that make them much more desirable and valuable than other model FD RX-7s. if you put a price on the bits it would be scary. The carbon kevlar seats alone are $10,000 a pair as they are specialy made for that car, not the mainstream recaro buckets you can buy anywhere. the BBS wheels would be $4K or so, bilsteins, all the alloy bits, exclusive colour. it's all nice stuff. I personally think it's well worth spending the extra money over an early model or regular FD model to get a spirit R or an RZ.

that is a real shame you had bearing problems. anyway, back on topic. car is still for sale. had a few interested parties but no one follow through yet. someone come check it out so we can go for a test drive, I love driving it and need an excuse to get out.

it's not that far. in fact I bought my silvia in melbourne. it's a good chance to fly down, pick-up car, then enjoy one of the nice vic race tracks and then drive it back. seems like pretty good value to me too.

nice, it looks like yahoo, k-parts if I'm not mistaken. looks good. HKS Kansai make a areally nice 32 undertray too.

interesting. so much for the aus ones being every bit the performance of the jdm spec cars. still boost is a thing that is easily rectified.

yep, healthy stock coils and HKS magic gold box is the way to go if you want fat spark. if your stockies fail and you don't want to spend $1500 on new ones then splitfires are not bad but definitely not an upgrade over stock that's for sure.

the greddy irridiums are a good budget-ish plug at around $15 each. and the proper greddy racing plugs are excellent but a bit pricey at $25+ each. the ones i use in the silvia are these ones 13000078 (T7340T-8) and in the GTR the $$$ racing ones are 13000108 (R7419-T8) I used to think they were just a wank and was happy enough with the $3 coppers, that is until I actually tried them.

I have some F1 news. A mate just returned from OS and bought me a nice red bull racing jacket. it's pretty cool, in black. go webber!

actually it doesn't even mean anyone bought it. just that the auction finished.... not every car listed on j-spec as sold was sold by them.... when they list auction cars the car could be bought or sold by anyone and they update their 'ad' to say finished as it can no longer be bought.

I know better to argue with you dazmo about the 32/33 vs 34 gearbox strength as my opinion doesn't come from any analysis of the components themselves but from experience with broken ones! personally I think both the 32/33 and the 34 boxes can hold a fair bit more power than most give credit for. It's quite possibly the synchro arrangment on the 34 boxes that is weaker than 32/33 the gears themselves may be as good or better. I don't know for certain. I have seen a couple of twisted input shafts in my time though. I'm not sure about this $16K hollinger price? who is that through? I reckon I could flog a few at that price. I thought currently they were more like $22K. I do agree with dazmo that in many ways your best to either spend very little or spend a lot. the midrange options seem poor value. if you keep breaking them you keep spending money and the PPG and PAR boxes need a lot of maintenance. you'll end up spending the $20K or so over a few years anyway so you may as well bite the bullet up front and go hollinger.

you are right about the cruiser. they are not cheap. I must admit I haven't been in a cherokee for a few years but the ones I have been in and drove I hated. but it's possible I'm way off on the current crop.

one like this is probably a bit closer to budget. the R8 is still the cool choice though. http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...8&silo=1011

something like this, only older and cheaper. plenty of room for stuff like jacks, tyres etc in the tray, and the expensive tools fit safely inside cab. they are a nice little truck. and you can get a white one to match the GTR... noice. http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/demo/d...id=11EBBF8BEB96 this is getting to be more like it: http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/dealer...id=11EBBF8BEB96 http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/dealer...id=11EBBF8BEB96

well I've towed with a fair few over the years. a decent new-ish toyota landcruiser is pretty sweet. and you can get some optioned up like a rolling lounge room. plus they fit heaps inside. we've been using a Nissan Navara ST-R turbo Diesel for a few years. it's good. has 4 doors, has a big tray in the back and tows GTRs, GT3s etc with ease. plus it's a nissan so that's kind of cool, and we got a chip for the ecu and a boost controller and now it does chirpies which is awesome, and drinks heaps of fuel which is not. it'll tow and good speed though which is nice. having said all that the 2001 clubbie R8 does appeal to me too, but your tow car will probably break more than the race car if you get one. I guess you can fit a tow bar to the GTR. cause every second track day you'd have to put the holden on the trailer and tow it home with the GTR... kekekeke. the jeeps do not appeal to me at all. yankee rubbish. the 'cruiser is probably the best, most reliable option but probably the most $$$ too. patrol is good too, but if you buy the same type of car as fatz you risk being labelled as a massive shirt lifter.

c'mon! don't tease a bloke. I need facts dammit. or at least some well worded lies?! give me somethng.

nope, they didn't make it knock. it's just wise to be vigilant when making any tuning change that's all. and make sure they remember the difference between crank degrees and camshaft degrees.

do tell?

80-90mm should to it. something around that will usually have a wide enough range to fit. if you have to choose 80 or 90, I'd choose 90. things get pretty big by the time you add pipe OD plus joiner OD.

and another opinion on those "awesome" t-bolt clamps... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4486391 get the sards, or these ones: http://www.norma.net.au/norma-constant-ten...ose-clamps.html

sure, you can still do the cam gears on the stock ecu. like I said it's not ideal, but it should still work. definitely do it on a dyno though so you can measure any changes in afr and it's much easier to listen for detonation on the dyno too. change your timing belt when you do the cam gears too. and if you don't have a timing belt I'm selling some genuine ones cheap. so buy one off me.

noooo, they are the cheapest and best marketed ones available! not the best. they have flat insides and due to their design are usually way over tightened. you should not be using clamp force alone to seal the pipe. you want a clamp with beads in it to create seals and with rolled edges. sard dual bead clamps are my favourite but they are just re-selling another company's clamps i'm sure. the norma constant tension clamps look good too. you want the clamps that have an inner ring, with dual beads, and rolled edges and then a clamp that goes over it. these wont cut into your joiners and they don't need to be wanged up to 1000ft/lb of torque just to seal either. In that thread above I think someone posted a link to another brand of dual bead clamps, but even the sard brand ones are not expensive. plus it's not like you have to keep buying them over and over. these are the ones to get: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4455418

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...sn-t259242.html

yep, that's the ones.

well one thing I'd look at is plugs. as you run more power and more boost you need to think about the heatrange plug you are using. for a standard car 6s may be ok. personally even with light upgrades I'd go to 7s and with more boost and different turbos you may even need 8s. my silvia will miss heavily as it ramps onto boost with 7s, but runs amazingly well with a set of 8s in there. I know coppers are cheap and are "ok". i was a big fan of using cheap $3 NGK coppers and changing them a lot. but now having used true high performance Greddy and HKS plugs I can tell you there is a big difference. Since they use irridium tips they can run a very fine 0.6mm tip which is a good thing. high performance car should have high performance plugs.