Beer Baron

my advice, make them able to go more short than long. so many aftermarket arms can go long enough to help people who have stupid low cars and want to save their precious 20inch white walled tyres. but honestly who cares about them?! they can buy any of the arms out there that already do this. but so many guys who have bought aftermarket arms have been dissapointed when they wouldn't go short enough to give them the neg they wanted. don't make this mistake. cut down the ends a bit so they don't meet in the middle without enough adjustment. OR the other option is make 2 types. they don't need to be radically different. one type can cater to say 10mm short and 10mm longer than stock. the other type cater to 15mm shorter and 5mm longer than stock. that will be the winning plan. listen to me john. I'm smart.

depends on what you consider to be lightweight? there is no strict definition of what is 'lightweight' and what is 'normal weight'. weigh them and then you can tell us if they're light or not. personally for a 17X9 inch wheel I'd say under 10kg is lightweight. under 8.5kg super light weight. over 10kg normal over 12kg heavy.

would you believe it was completely stock suspension wise in that pic! stock arms, bushes, shocks the whole lot. so no neg other than whatever was standard. the wheels were sitting nicely flush with the front and rear guards and it had a good ride height too. they really made the look of the car. great rims. you can see in the on track pic it's a bit lower as I'd just installed some teins. and like you said, tyre performance on track has little to do with size and everything to do with type of tyre. a 235 semi slick will far outperform a 265 cheap road tyre. those particular tyres were pretty average falkens. but I did love those rims on that car. I actually pinched them off my soarer and then bought some volks to go on the soarer in it's place. lol it looked pretty funny on GTST wheels for a few days.

wow. I thought it was a typo and was meant to have a -R in there! yeah the sunnny GTI is AWD non-turbo. pretty average piece of gear. they must have been pushing it pretty hard to get that far up the order. well done.

fark it's p1ssing me off. I've tried every way I can think of to load it but nothing is working. argh. what am I doing wrong?

Hi guys, Can someone please help! I have a PSP. it's an original Jap PSP with the good screen etc. Still running native V1.50 firmware. Also running devhook with 2.50 to play newer games (would love a reboot.bin for 2.71 if anyone has it so I can use that firmware too). My problem is I downloaded GT2 from PS1 PSX to play. In the download I just got one folder which contained the eboot.pbp and a keys.bin file and a readme. the readme just said put the GT2 folder in your PSP/GAME folder. So I did. Most of my other folders in there like nesterJ etc have a folder (nesterJ) and then another one (nesterJ% or %nesterJ). Now I seem to remember like when I installed daedalus I just installed the one folder. I went into the PSP and tried to use it but it didn't work (cannot start game data is corrupted). I then turned it off and turned it back on and it created that daedalus% folder for me. I notice in the main folders they have an eboot.pbp file (say 3mb) then in the % folder they also have an eboot.pbp file but it's much smaller (sometimes as small as 1kb). So how do it get this to work? I tried making my own GT2% folder and putting it in there and copying over the eboot.pbp but it didn't work. or do I need to put GT2 somewhere else? Any help much appreciated. also, is there any better N64 emu than daedalus? I really want to play goldeneye but it's unplayable on that emu. games like mario kart 64 are playable but the sound doesn't work properly and sometimes you get massive slowdown in the game when lots of stuff is on screen. Thanks guys.

yes you can. in power FCs there is one unit for R32 and R33.

yep, I had power FC in my first 32 GTR for over a year with no problem ever. then one day it started. paul, I'll get my info for you over the next few days. always happy to help the cause.

The thing I like about keeping the stock manifolds is that they will be much better at keeping the heat (energy) in the pipe which is what we want. the tomei ones are better than most as they are quite thick walled and of course the shape of the primaries and the collector and the flanges are better than stock, but even though they are better than most stainless/mild mani's they still can't match the stock ones for heat retention. I am going to give the stockies a going over and see how closely I can get them to match the ports of the head and of the turbine inlet. Like I said the tomei mani's worked really well on the last set-up I had and I'm sure they played a part in how 'urgently' it came onto boost and how it didn't drop off up top, but the stockies well ported may not be far behind. the other thing to consider though I guess is if you were paying someone to port the mani's and it took say 8 hours work (not unreasonable) @ $80 an hour you are not far off buying a set of tomei or 6 boost ones. but as a DIY it's the way to go.

yep the guy in sydney who was doing the extrude honing has given it up and sold his gear apparently. nice little test greg. have you tested the tomei twin manifolds? if you're keen to test them on a ported or standard head I'm happy to send you some to use.

the oil should always run from the engine to the filter to the cooler then back to the engine.

# 138 Peterson -Booker 1994 Nissan Sunny GTI 8PRA 8PRA RM5 305 was that a GTI-R? pretty good effort for 5th in rookie in a little hatchback. good to see a GTI-R out there, I still have a soft spot for them.

yeah I would probably got a 235 all round. I used to run 235/45/17s on my 32 GTST all round on 17X8 +30 blitz wheels and they fitted fine. I personally wouldn't go wider than 235 on an 8 inch rim either.

no. when you run more boost generally you need to close down the spark gap. not make it wider. the standard gap is 1.1mm mate. and no 8mm will be out of this world. I think he means 0.8mm gap. no plug could give you an 8mm gap and no ignition system could give you a spark strong enough to jump that gap.

crank will need to come out for the main bearings anyway. you probably could fit the collar with the crank still in the bottom end, but certainly not easy if the engine was still in the car. far easier to do it when the crank comes out.

I am in 2 minds at the moment. about to bolt on a set of HKS GT-SS, tomei expreme manifolds and tomei dumps to my heavily ported head. I used the tomei manifolds on my last set-up which was very similar. it had ported head (a bit milder than this one though), tomei manifolds, HKS GT-SS and tomei dumps. it was very responsive. the path through the manis is very direct and they are very open so the exhaust gas is hitting the turbine very hard. the turbine entry on THE GT-SS needs some opening up itself. and you can see the turbo mount flange on the tomei manifolds is huge next to a stock one. for this engine I'm thinking of trying stock manifodls ported out. but on the other hand the tomei mani's are a work of art and seem to work pretty well.

well there is word that the current ross balancers are better. but I can count a number of people I know personally who had a ross and stopped using it in favour of an ATI. I know 1 case where the guy had a ross, had it replaced with a newer model ross and still had to go to an ATI in the end. yes the ATI cost more, but I guess it's a case of getting what you pay for. the precision parts ones look good but I have no experience with them. if you are really hard core consider a garage saurus crank pulley. they are solid, no rubber. but supposedly if engine is balanced well they are a good way to go.

are you sure they are rips and not the factory cuts to enable it to be put into position in the car? the car carpet is pretty thick, hardy stuff. I can't imagine it ever tearing unless it was really worn. it would be hard to repair neatly. you're probably better off buying some second hand.

weird. I bought a jap launch 60gb PS3 in tokyo way back on launch day 2006 and it's still going strong. also have an aussie launch 60gb ps3 and it's still going strong too. touch wood!

that's a big 10-4. 32 diff gears are plentiful though if needed for anyone. in a slightly related matter I just got a line on sets of brand NEW 4.375:1, R32 GTS4 diff gear sets for front and rear (both crown wheel and pinions). they are not much more than the $$$ people charge for second hand ones to poor GTR owners like me.

no RB26 has VCT. not 32, 33 or 34.

ATI is the best choice.

hopefully they will reimburse you the $210. that is surely cheaper than if you had used their fed-ex account to send it back, then they balance it, then send it back. the one way postage alone would have been $210.

oh baby! I have been waiting for these for a long time. I have the noltec arms which WERE by far the best ones for 32, but they are apparently out of production and were about $500 or $600 when you could get them. these will be even better again.

the symptoms really do point to an air leak. even more so considering the chain of events: car started, idled and drove fine. you left car piping was removed/messed with piping was replaced car wont idle, run or drive properly I know where I'd be hunting the problem. leaks wont always be visible to the naked eye. go over every piece of induction piping.