Beer Baron

all of what the petroject bloke has told you sounds reasonable to me. and yes using high flow, high pressure EFI pumps as a low pressure lift pump can cause problems. you are far better off with a high flow low pressure type pump that is designed for that application. some high performance carby type pumps are suitable and not expensive.

$1800 is very reasonable to remove RB26, supply and fit oil pump and replace RB26.

yep, it's a great result and spot on for a healthy 33 GTR with a good tune.

get an oil pressure gauge. turn the engine over by hand until you see some oil pressure. if you get nothing stop what you are doing and consult someone who knows what they are doing. in fact, just consult someone who knows what they are doing now. it sounds to me like you are on the verge of loosing this engine. if you want to save it pay a mechanic to come and help you. or even better just tow it to a workshop.

yep, it's a rev limiter, with what sounds like stationary rev limit. adjust the knobs back where they were. have a look and see if there are any wires going to it from the speed wire, or the handbrake or the brake lights, or even a clutch switch. it will (should) have something to tell it you are stationary (usually wired to the handbrake or clutch) and it will then engage a lower launch RPM so that you can launch the car more easily, and in the case of ignition cut limiters you can build some boost on the start line. bear in mind ignition cut limiters are not kind to your engine, and RB26s have been known to damage oil pump gears from using one. the start knob should adjust the start or launch rpm. the gain will adjust the length/speed of the cut cycles and the rev will adjust the normal rev limit. just realised the knobs have been maxed out. someone has done that to effectively disable it. if you want to try it, set the gain to 50%, set the start to around half and the rev to a bit higher. then try free revving it and see when it cuts in. obviously do it when the engine is nicely up to temp.

sadly what you have described is the text book symptoms of a blown head gasket. what's happened is when your coolant pipe has failed your engine has overheated and the head is most likely warped and the head gasket has blown. this is why you are getting white smoke and coolant in your oil and oil in your coolant. sorry mate but the engine is gone, it's not the turbo.

filling the car with regular unleaded has quite possibly f**ked your car. it should be run on 98 RON premium fuel ONLY. mate if you only do a take every 3 months then it's not like the cost is massive either. remove the shit fuel from the tank (just remove the fuel return and pump it into a jerry can using the fuel pump), and re-fill with proper fuel. buy some new BCPR7ES plugs and check the gaps (should all be 0.8mm). install them and hope for the best.

mmm 39psi... have had boost control hoses fail before to give 'unlimited' boost before. can be great fun till something dies. a mate of mine picked up a heavily modified GTI-R from the docks years ago. unfortunately the fkers had pinched the ebc solenoid and left the wastegate without a pressure feed so it stayed shut. on the drive home he rang to tell me how wicked fast this car was. we had some great fun in it, till the motor lunched itself due to the 2bar+ boost it was running... d'oh! a boost gauge of some kind is always worthwhile. In the GTR I never look at mine, but it's set-up with a warning level and recall so if something goes wrong you know to get off the gas. great result on the E85. it really is the way to go at the moment if you want some good fuel for the track or strip. much better option than paying big bucks for ELF etc like we are used to.

if it wont even idle properly it's possible your ecu was tuned for some other set-up. try a standard ecu to eliminate that from the equation.

get some 4.4:1 diff gears (well 4.375:1 actually). get the 2530 like troy suggested, run a good boost controller to help bring it on as soon as possible. I'd run 18psi or so (if tuned well it shouldn't be a problem) get a power FC and have it tuned well. get an adjustable exhaust cam gear and have it tuned. get a metal intake pipe and ARC front mount with the shortest pipe run you can, or even an ARC sidemount cooler. nice cold air intake to the pod. don't get big nasty wheels, they will slow you down. some lightweight 16s or 17s with good tyres is plenty. don't get big brakes either, just some good pads, rotors and fluid in standard sizes will do it. that should be good for 230 or so rwkw and be a fun, punchy set-up. no it won't be the mines GTR that everyone wanks over (which by the way is nothing that special), but it will be a nice street car to fang around in.

they are the 2 leading turbo manifold makers in aus. I would say you will get a great result with either one. I would call or email them both with your requirements and ask for a price and turnaround time, see what they say, and make your decision from there. again, they both make great products. it's personal preference really that separates the two.

it's a tough one. 'feel' can be misleading. I have to admit it's a problem I've seen with a few RB30 combos that just didn't feel as 'exciting' to drive. on paper they looked great but just didn't have that same on the edge feel as the Rb25 and RB26s they replaced. It's possible that the old package was much more brutal in it's transition onto boost and that made it feel fast, where as the 30 with the new turbo builds boost earlier and in a more linear way. it is of course possible that the figures aren't exactly right. perhaps have it dyno'd somewhere else just for interests sake. just roll up to a dyno day somewhere, pay the $50 a get another set of graphs for comparisons sake.

I would go with the R34 GTR seats. I've had them in a few of my cars now. I love them in my 32 GTR and liked them in my 34 GTR too. the SR3s are nothing that great. plus the R34 seats will never give you any grief legality wise.

depends on driver. but if you are a competent amateur I would aim for a 1:50. how far under 1:50 just depends on how comfortable you are at EC and with the car. By amateur I mean non-professional driver, ie enthusiast. You had some good times for the first time out Jeff. 1:46 is fairly moving. just another demonstration of how capable they are for a stock road car. 240 on the straight is pretty rapid too.

wait till you hear what it is before you say yes!! lol. pm sent. thanks mate.

are you able to bring something from bris to sydney? there would happily be some $$ in it for you.

no matter which way you do the sums a decent R32 GTR track car is $80K+. and if you want to do it all with premium gear $120K+. a maximum effort time attack type GTR like Mark Berrys "hi-octane" 34 would cost over $250K to build. these are the sad facts. Even guys trying to stick to a budget like duncan will have spent that $80K. and it would be lots more except they do most of the work themselves. a nice 32 GTST track car on the other hand can be done a fair bit more cheaply. yes it would be outright as fast as the big boy GTRs but it will be within a couple of seconds of them at some tracks. and you'll be in a diffferent class (depending on what exactly you build). My super duper GTST track car would look like this: R32 GTST body (non sunroof model). Built 2.2l SR20 engine nice single turbo kit, around a 3037 or 3040/ TD06SH-20G. around that size. do the solid lifters, big cams etc. good sump all that gear around 300rwkw GTR front guards, GTR bonnet (or carbon) lexan window, strip out the doors strip out the car widen rear guards, or fit GTR quarters if you're really keen. might as well use a GTR rear wing, though a GT wing can be good too. get some decent brakes, around 350mm fronts with something like F40s, or D2s, or APs, if possible get something that can go under 17s. get some good sets of 17inch wheels and rubber. 265 rears and 235 or 245 fronts. Get some good suspension (crucial part). look at DMS, proflex if you have the $$. get GTR rear cradle and diff, and GTR hubs (all can be had cheap if you're patient) Get a decent box either an OS gearset, or there are some good sivlia gearset options, or a PPG box. get a good bolt in cage, good seat, strip the rest. ENJOY. it would be pretty quick, that's obviously a basic outline, there is a lot of detail work with suspension and set-up but that's the rough idea. RB25 or RB26 would work too, but the SR is light, and with a nice tomei or HKS 2.2 kit can put out decent torque, and with those good bottom end bits and some good head gear to match they can rev too.

yep, agree with that. I've tried lots of different combos and most of them suck. particularly with hire trailers. i've had one hire trailer that was near on 1,000kgs and with a 1400kg car on it, being towed by a pissy little ute was one of the worst experiences of my life. the ute would have been all of 1000kgs towing 2400kgs with an asthmatic 2.4l engine and 5 speed box it could not go up even the smallest incline in anything over 4th, and even on the downhill it would be lucky to hit 110km/h. At that speed you needed a spare lane on each side of you as the trailer was doing the driving. towing with a nice late model landcruiser or similar is a whole different experience. but if I could afford it I'd probably have an F150 or F250 behemoth. all the cool kids at the track have them...

it was a pretty bad mistake considering: A) their interiors look nothing alike and; B) the 370 interior has a GIANT "Z" on the steering wheel which is very prominent in the photo.

yeah you would hope so. but my advice would be get it leak tested HOT. people have been fooled before with 26 heads. the cracks is not always easy to find.

just some info I can add. I was the one that bought this cooler for charlie in japan. it was BRAND NEW ex demo stock from a tuning shops display case in japan. it was the premium cooler offered by Apexi and at the time was considered the absolute BEST GTR cooler you could buy and cost nearly $4K new. It's 150mm thick FFS! It's the same cooler as used in the apexi drag cars and many other top level pro class GTRs in japan. when they went out of production the price of the few new ones left went up. this one was a real find after ages looking and charlie paid pretty good money for it. I remember the express freight on it alone was something like $400! There is nothing that will flow like this bad boy. And for the 5,000km use I would say is very conservative. I reckon charlie would have done no where near those kms with it on. come on charlie it's probably more like 500kms! Bear in mind you can never buy this cooler new, and ones in this condition left in the world you could probably count on one hand. it's a steal for $1700 (or $1600). It's a must have for anyone with a big single street/drag GTR. honestly mate I would have thought this would be up for at $2,000 or so. it's worth every cent of that money. as for the full forged, full counter crank. all i can say is oh momma! if you want a big revving circuit or drag GTR that is the main component you need, a full forged crank with full counter weights. it enables you to rev it smoothly and reliably to 10,000rpm. there is nothing like a big revving RB26.

come on. please give it a rest guys. who gives a shit. trent merely wanted to share the DYNO result of an awesome car he had the pleasure of tuning. I don't think he intended it to become a zub measuring contest. he just wanted to share his excitement and results. no where did he claim it was any better than anybody else, except that it would make more power than his own project car... it's not up to him to prove anything. it's not even his car. ask the owner about it if you are genuinely interested. other than that I think it's time we all moved on. PS: GTRNUR your GTR looks awesome and strangely familiar...

looks good mate. best choice you could have made. I ran them on my old 32 GTR which had a full built motor, with serious headwork, cams, HKS turbos, power FC, 700cc injectors etc etc the full works and the stock BOVs handled the 20 odd psi pumping through them no problem.

you are confusing gap with heat range. that advice above is wrong. the number in the plugs for example 'iriway 8' is NOT the plug gap. that is the heat range. they are two different things. the stock plug gap is not .6mm. they are a heat range 6 plug, with a gap of 1.1mm. yes as you get more power you need colder plugs. that has nothing to do with gap. you want the gap to be as large as possible without misfiring or plug arcing out. usually with more boost and power and colder plugs you need to close the gap down to about .8mm but if you can run more gap by all means do so as it gives a bigger spark. there is also a suffix with NGK plug numbers. so a BCPR7ES-11 is a 7 heat range plug with a 1.1mm gap. a BCPR7ES with no suffix comes gapped to 0.8mm. a BCPR8ES-11 is an 8 heat range plug that comes gapped of course to 1.1mm and so on.

there is a review in the sydney morning heralds drive lift out today. it was quite a well balanced review. simple, to the point, and fairly accurate. There was one BIG blunder though, and that is the knuckle heads published a photo of the 370Z interior as the R35.... d'oh