Beer Baron

all pumps are rated at a particular quoted pressure. at least the nismo one is quoted at the actual base pressure of a modern EFI system. 3 bar. sure pumps flow changes with pressure (they will increase to a point, then hold, then drop and some like walbro's will drop drastically at a given pressure). all skyline systems run a 3 bar system + boost. I haven't seen a nismo pump @ base + 1.5 bar be unable to supply 6 X 700cc injectors at around 90% duty. They are designed for boosted EFI applications so they do handle pressure a lot better than some pumps that are designed for high flow, low pressure systems. which is where people get caught out. when you say it flows less than 276l/ph @ base + 1.5bar, how much less does it flow? I'd be keen to know what you found as I'm running one in the new car too. and in my previous experience it doesn't flow less than quoted.

awesome. is that for the dealer option alarms? Like my 34 GTR came with a red prox immobiliser piece in the standard 34 GTR key, and it had a little keyfob with GTR on one side and the button on the other side. it was a cool little remote.

yep, that all is about right. and if you []i]really[/i] want to have fun it's not hard to spend decent money in Tokyo. I've spent over 100,000JPY one 1 dinner for 3 people. It was good but not super extravagant. especially when you're on holiday you don't want to be worrying about money. well at least I don't. just enjoy and worry about it later. oh, and the 100,000JPY place was porterhouse in azabu. it was amazing. the best steak of my life. and the alaskan king crab cakes were excellent.

the ones you pictured are the nismo ones for R32 GTR. they were fibreglass or FRP maybe, and were about triple the size of the stock ones. the stock R32 ones were rubber and are in that parts diagram posted above. I think the stock castor rod deflector ones were only on nismo 32s, v specs and v spec IIs, and N1s. but all cars had the ducts under the bar that bolt to the front lip holes.

all of what they have told you is pretty sensible. yes a good track engine is very different to a good street engine. and yes racing places some supreme load on stuff. I know N1GTR says what's the point if you can't thrash and track it, but steve your first 26 blew up at the track, then the new RB30 hybrid only lasted a few weeks (days?) or so, and then the next one did the same and went after a track day if memory serves. so that's 3 engines done at the track. duncan is worse having done what must be close to a dozen engines at the track, but he is a bit different doing door to door racing and in a controlled class where engines must be standard. so yeah, to run reliably at the track with decent power does take some though. if your engine was built 5 years ago then it's quite possible they have learnt some new tricks since then about making them live at the track. having said all that if you do want to track it do the following: make sure you have a decent oil cooler, preferably mounted in one of the ducts, not just slapped between the intercooler and radiator. get good quality oil temp, oil pressure and water temp gauges or an all in one monitor, but must have adjustable warnings with buzzer and light. use good oil. a group V base stock would be the go, like motul 300V. at the track keep the revs down - a quick blast on the street to the redline in 2nd is no big deal. strapping down the straight to the redline in 4th lap after lap is very different. on the track knock 500rpm or so off what you usually consider max revs. it wont hurt your times considerably but it will help your engine live. when you get out there take it easy. do a few laps, build up some pace/revs. watch the temps and pressures. if you guage can do it, set it to record say 2 laps flat out. then pull into the pits and replay the gauge. watch to see does oil pressure drop under hard braking or cornering. if it does drop a lot you have an oil surge problem and will need to be carefull. if that all goes well, then get out there and enjoy. just keep an eye on those revs, temps, and pressures and it should be fine.

GTR nismo pump flows 276L per hour. with the stock/nismo wiring. and with good power feed with flow every mil of that if not more. a set of 6 700cc injectors can flow 252 L per hour at 100% open. so in my eyes nismo GTR pump is the perfect match for 700cc injectors. it should be just able to oversupply them. edit: I've run nismo GTR pumps in a number of my cars, with stock 440 njectors, 600cc injectors and the sard 700cc inejctors. no problems with any of those set-ups, but never really stretched any of those systems.

and where have you been hiding?! anyway, try the above about disconnecting everything etc. but sadly if that doesn't fix it, it's most likely the HC dying. there are a few places that can fix them. try nams auto electrical. he can fix just about anything that is electric and import related. Nams Electronic Services 391 Enmore Rd, Marrickville, NSW 2204 * Phone:(02) 9550 4144

what kind of yoghurt?

UAS is good too. in seven hills. www.nismo.com.au or try envy imports in brookvale. they have just invested in a new awd dyno and purpose built tuning workshop.

paragon mate, I don't think trent claims to be a 'tuning god' but he does have a lot of experience in tuning and driving a lot of different set-ups. I do too and I can tell you the only good thing about the microtech is it's price. and even that is not great. they are very basic. for starters they have only a 16X16 map which is pretty average for a full standalone ecu. even the plugin PFC which costs less and is easier, quicker and cheaper to install and tune has a 20X20 map for ign and fuel. and the microtech wont run the factory AFM either. I could go on and on, but the reality is they are just not a good option for any model skyline. for basic mods like this guy, a piggyback like the emanage represents great value for money. the car will still start and run like factory and retains all the nice features of the factory ecu, but can be tuned to get the best power and economy out of his set-up. and for more serious set-ups a power FC can be bought cheaply, needs no more than 5 min to install and doesn't require any wiring, is easy to tune and can be tuned at practically any tuning shop and gives great results. it's all the things that the microtech isn't. and look at stuff like haltech platinum that has 32X32 maps and loads and loads of features. anyway for this application I don't think there would be a worse choice than a microtech. the emanage is a good choice in this case.

from the little info we have I would say it's a poor tune. simple as that. the car should not run poorly over a change in altitude of 400m.

I would say 20,000JPY a day will be enough. I mean if you have one good meal a day in tokyo there goes 8,000JPY. drinks in clubs will be around 1,000JPY. a taxi or two each day for short trips will be 2 or 3,000jpy. and if you want to buy anything then add that on top. but if you just want to eat cheaply then you can get a meal for around 1,000 but beer is the killer at most places, even cheap ramen bars etc. basically like in normal life you'll have to tailor your spending and activities to your budget. I could easily spend $1,000 a day in Tokyo without going stupid. and I could probably live on $150 a day if I really had to. the fun zone is somewhere between the two.

bummer on the whippersnipper motor failing. time for some nice bits. there is so much good gear for that motor. then turbo it.... oh yes.

awesome news mate! it's given me a little motivation to finish mine. I've been on the cusp of packing it in and putting everything up for sale this week.

best idea of the thread.

ok, to be honest why do you want to fight what is normal? just run the same size and width all round. it has a number of benefits. 1) all the right GTR offset and 'face' wheels come in sets of 4 that are the same size. if you stagger you'll have to be buying unsuitable wheels 2) proper GTR offset and faced wheels look good. 3) you wont have any AWD problems 4) you can rotate tyres front to back 5) the handling balance will be right. running smaller front tyres wrecks the way a GTR handles and just gives you lots of understeer. as for offset there is no magic minimum offset that will clear the sumitomo brakes, simply because all wheels are made differently and have different shaped spokes etc. 2 different brand wheels with the same size and offset will have different amounts of brake clearance. seriously running different width wheels on a GTR looks lame. it's for muppets.

most speedway in aus is dirt track? is that really what you are building? a speedway R33? if it is being built for dirt track racing then suspension will be very important. you'll need to talk to someone who regularly sets up speedway cars.

any good qual dot 4 will mix with it fine. any of the 600degree dot 4s will be good. RBF600, AP600 etc. all fine.

yep, I reckon you could definitely have bagged that hottie upstairs over those few days if you had gotten off your arse and spun some good stories! and paula was keen when you tried to bet the gallardo in a hand of poker at crown. not sure how happy james would have been if you lost it... all lies.

lol, crazycroat. don't ask! and why am I telling you? the last thing I want is you killing me too! you should help me. help me jeebus.

yeah there are plenty of cars beating the 35 in the looks and sound stakes. no doubt about that. but for outright pace it's pretty hard to toss.

yep, they used to try and force anything jap and quick to run in SV which is BS. as you suggest it's to protect all the old alfas, commodores etc that race in types 1, 2 and 3. and then you turn up in say a stock-ish S13 expecting to run in type 2 only to be put in SV with kit cars, purpose built race cars etc. stupid.

lol, well you have the right market. 33 GTST and hyundai sonata's - the worlds ugliest car... I'm sure it'll be a great hit amongst the hard core hyundai tuning community. mmmm so hot. almost looks like a ferrari or some other kind of supercar...

the worst that could happen? new engine. piece breaks up, damages piston, things start falling apart, catastrophic engine failure. the best that can happen? nothing at all, it gets blown out the exhaust and somehow doesn't damage your turbo. my advice would be try as hard as you can to get it out before starting this engine. you do not want it bashing your piston to pieces. a dropped piece of plug (usually tip) or dropped valve head is a very common cause of engine failure. and it can be very final.

lol, it's not going to eat through your gearbox and synchros. it's a lubricant. and a good one at that. so no, it's not corrosive...