Beer Baron

yeah $50K is way over the budget. like more than double. maybe triple even. I certainly wouldn't pay $22K for a 40inch LCD. I mean my bravia XBR 46" retailed for about $5K when new and even that was pricey I thought. so yeah, I think the BO gear might be out. If I went for cheaper speakers, and maybe skip the beosound5 then it could be doable, but when you are up $1100 for a remote things can easily get out of hand.

I don't think you'll be disappointed with the DMS 50s. can't wait to see the pics. what was the ball park on cost for the DMS, install, set-up?

lol, shut up shan-chan...

beosound 5: http://www.bang-olufsen.com/beosound5 beolab 9: http://www.bang-olufsen.com/beolab9 (these and the beosound in the lounge room) beovox 1 in the kitchen: http://www.bang-olufsen.com/beovox1 beolab 6000 for the front of the house. http://www.bang-olufsen.com/beolab6000 and for outside can probably use the sound from the beolab 9s with the doors open. but to be honest I think the BO stuff might end up too $$ in the end. I mean their 40inch LCD High def Tv is $22,000 FFS! and their stereos only work with their TVs... also considering the beosound 3200 instead of the 5. http://www.bang-olufsen.com/beosound3200

well got a quote from bang and olufsen the other day. some really nice gear. looking at the beosound5 and some beosound 9 speakers, but the speakers are stupid expensive. $13K for the pair! makes the bose stuff look dirt cheap, and the sonos stuff seem like it must be stolen... the actual BO system is not too bad. about $8K for the beosound5 which is awesome. lossless CD conversion to it's hard drive. and it has net radio etc. and the interface is sooo cool. the bloody remote costs $1100 though which is a bit rude, but BO stuff has always been expensive. so I'm still kind of deciding what to do....

yeah it's a bummer. but to give users some privacy even admins cannot access other users pm box or read or delete pms in there. so it's not easy to combat. common sense is the only weapon you have. so let's use that! if you get a pm from an 'administrator' that signed up 2 days ago, has no admin tag and sends you to a site that ends in .ru then I say think carefully before clicking. for those that don't know if you mouse over a link your browser will display the URL that you're going to in the bottom left corner of your browser window. so you can check without clicking it.

tein HAs, are entry level, twin tube cheap coil-overs. they are pretty average. and yes I've used them years ago (i don't think they still make them new anymore). I bought some brand new and thought they were awesome. but in 10 years I've learnt a lot....

lol, get me a warnie jersey. it will be a big hit at the pub.

if it comes down to it you should be able to run the track day without the O2s. just use bolts or the old dead sensors to block the holes, and if you have aftermarket management turn 02 feedback (closed loop) OFF. then it will be sweet, possibly a bit thirsty on cruise unless you tune to suit but other than that no problem.

I just realised not one of you arse clowns has answered this poor gents question properly. rezz, is still around from time to time. he is no longer a mod (his choice) as he no longer is on the forum as much as he used to be. he still has his website 7tune I believe and is still in japan.

well either commit ritual suicide in shame or try harder...

yeah I always dial up about 6,000rpm in the old GTR and step off the clutch whenever I am bogged off roading in the swiss alps... lol. works very well... at spraying skiers with snow and mud. I guess you could say. "sorry officer, I saw a patch of snow on the ground and had to use my snow release mode, i then only accelerated for 4 seconds to make sure I was clear of it. and somehow ended up doing 120 kp/h. I didn't think that was possible.".

what oil are you using dundan?

yeah I have a feeling you are right. as I remember someone saying the improved TC is what gives the better time. does the S2 GTR even have LC? I thought it didn't but all this talk of "LC2" made me convinced it does. I understood when they released the S2 GTR that it did not have any type of LC. you just nail it off the line and go from there. so you can't hold it on the brake with the clutch disengaged at 4500 rpm anymore. I don't know for sure. I haven't had any serious fun in a S2 GTR. all S1 JDMs for me.

RRR is not how you launch on LC1 cars. so i'd say the process would be the same for LC2? it's R R off. and remember the first R drops out if you switch between man and auto modes etc. and it will re-set sometimes. the best bet is to drive normally in normal mode. then come to a complete stop. then switch to R, R, Off. then go for it.

forget the kinchrome one anyway. the one you want is the bluepoint one. it's much lower, goes under the car much further, and is not much more exxy.

d'oh I forgot to check. out of interest what did the black one go for Kristian? I didn't watch it.

sticking with power FC for now. nothing too fancy. running sard 700s, nismo AFMs, nismo pump (but will switch to external/surge set-up). engine is fairly tame, though the head is pretty heavily worked fully ported, squish zones removed on one side, chambers CC'd etc. mild tomei cams, small HKS turbos. I'm going to drill tap and plumb in the 2 nipples in cyl's 3 and 4 before I put the plenum and throttles back on in case I decide to do to DJETRO or something else. but I think the PFC will run this one fine. it will only be around 350rwkw or so. but should be very responsive and do some decent revs. thanks for the offer mate, I will definitely talk to you before I come up. the more advice the merrier.

agreed, and all indications were that the STR F was better than the RBR R last year. and yet webber still showed up vettel on a number of occasions. not just with pace either. webber will either beat him, or I'll find some good excuses and bury my head in the sand.

thanks for that mate. you half read my mind. i've been thinking about giving the blokes at cnj the gig for the 32. certainly marks and russ's cars all seem to run pretty sweetly, and all seem to hang together (though that is as much a credit to mark and russ's work as it is just tuning). so since I'll be up north it was a thought I had. to be honest I am pretty dissatisfied with most of the tuners i have used over the years for one reason or another. and you're right on the attitude adjustment. that probably goes for half of them. the problem is most of the 'big name' shops wont put in much effort unless you're a repeat customer, or have a good and long relationship with them. some of the other guys I just doubt they are any better at it than I am, and many of them are worse and have less fundamental understanding of engine tuning than my own limited expertise so bugger paying for that. some others who are good but will only spend 1 or 2 hours on the thing and then expect to get paid their 'standard' $1000 for a tune which is farkin bullshit in my opinion too. no matter how smart they are $250 an hour for the tuning and say $150 an hour for the dyno (standard hire out rate in syd) is bullshit. I mean $250 an hour. people with a bachelors degree don't get that, and I don't know many tuners who spent 4 years studying engine tuning 3 days a week on zero pay... the tuning I've had done in japan has been excellent. the guys there have had 20 years experience with RB engines, and tuned thousands. with a new engine they spend 8 hours with it on the dyno and 1 or 2 more on the road. they have 3 people with the car at all times. 1 tuning, 1 checking the engine bay, 1 to do other bits as needed. and they know their shit. and the price was fair for the full day they spent on it. but shipping a car to japan just for a tune is not worth it. there are plenty of tuners in sydney I haven't tried, but don't really want to 'experiment' with a $20K engine. lol. i'm half way to tuning it myself, but I know my limitations and want it done well.

now you're talking!! but sadly I have no idea of anyone who'll have a car like that. as far as I know in aus sports sedans if you wanted to run an AWD, turbo car in sports sedans it had to retain the factory floor-pan ie no space frame in combo with FI and AWD. plenty or RWD, NA, V8 spaceframe getting around though.

not quite. san = everyone. people you just met, people below you people above you. it's just good manners. and it's ALWAYS surname-san. chan = girlfriends, daughters, little sisters that's about it used with first name or shortened first name/nickname kun = boyfriends, little brothers, male friends (sometimes, especially used by teenagers etc). never women. also used with first name and/or shortened first names and nicknames

exactly like I said above. you use kun for like little brothers etc. but girlfriends also call their boyfriends -kun. sometimes even with a nickname-kun. but I do know guys (japanese guys) who call each other firstname-kun who are of equal standing. but you would never call someone higher than you anything other than surname-san unless you were really close friends which would changes things a bit. although as foreigners you tend to get away with mistakes anyway without causing any real offence. although just to confuse you some guys nicknames do have chan. like a mate of mine tomonori akai (excellent drifter and now competing in MSC pro class). some of the guys call him tomo or tomo-kun. but he has a nick name. papa-chan. and he even has stickers made with his likeness in cartoon form and papa-chan underneath in katakana. but admittedly that is not common. and a special case as it's a nickname/joke. so for the tomo example. people who don't know him or just met him. akai-san friends tomo close friends (equal or higher) tomo-kun really close friends papa-chan 1 man, many names. lol. just like here cutesy nicknames between couples is common. like if my girlfriend was japanese and called Yumiko Makoto I would call her yumi or yumi-chan. and she would call me riki-kun or richado-kun. as andy pointed out even though i've heard some blokes given nicknames with -chan kind of as a joke I've never heard of a chick being called anything-kun. I don't think they'd see the funny side... but again, anyone you meet you will be calling them surname-san. especially people who are older than you. like everything in japanese it seems overly complex but is not really if you understand how things work. there is just one word you really need to know. for when you fk it all up.... ごめんなさい gomenasai (sorry) (^_^)

the JIC ones are pretty basic, and entry level teins are twin tube and pretty rubbish too. the top level teins are miles better (mono-tube, alloy body, better valving etc) but cost more than you can spend. but look, honestly if you don't have the money and want to buy something then just go ahead and buy some of the 1500 dorrar ones that everyone buys. G4/D2/HSD/ISC/tein/JIC. basically all the coil-over kits at that price point will be twin tube (or cheap monotube) all will have simple adjustment and will all be pretty average in the valving department. most of those places make one shock and just add different attachments to suit different car mountings. they don't actually valve them differently for different models, they just try and cover it up buy going heavy spring rate on heavy cars and lighter rates on lighter cars. at least the crappo gear you get will be new, and it may come with some kind of warranty which is good. and if your factory gear is stuffed (quite possible after 15 years of going up and down) then it may even be an improvement. and for drifting at least the high spring rates will reduce roll which will make the car easier to break into a slide. so it's not all bad. but really the good stuff starts with top level teins (RA, RE, RS, N1), the top shelf Greddy gear with remote canisters is quite good too but $4K+, ohlins gear of course is very good. there is good bilstein gear too, and the DMS are a good option too and have some budget-ish choices that seem to be good value. then you can go up to pro-flex, penske, sachs, top ohliins etc and spend $20,000 and more for a set of 4. so considering the best gear costs over $20K, now think about what goes into the $1500 stuff... oh, and for the record in my street/drift/fun silvia I have HSD HRs and I wouldn't buy them (they came in the car). they are ok on the track but about equal with their $1500 price tag. in the circuit GTR I have top shelf Ohlins remote canister 4 way adjustables and they are miles ahead both on the track and on the street even with higher spring rates. and they handle the bumps very nicely.

well my advice is if the car looks good, have a bid, but bid say 200,000 less than you would be prepared to bid for your 'perfect' car. that way if you don't win it, no big deal. and if you do win it you've saved 200,000yen by going with an interior that wasn't your first choice. but if you really couldn't be happy with it then obviously don't bid.