Beer Baron

who is measuring the camber? sometimes the problem is in the alignment gear. also, have you adjusted castor since you had the -2 with the bushes? with the arms being 10mm shorter than the old -2 set-up with the offet bushes you obviously should have more neg not less. has the height of the car changed since you had the -2 with the bushes? that will affect the camber too of course.

nice one mate. nothing ever goes perfectly but those problems are only minor. and one missed trackday is no biggie. mmm 300 @ 7 will be some serious fun. what are the ratios like in the box that's behind it?

turbo. by far easier and better.

and he's now been banned and all his posts deleted. carry on.

OS88 box is a good thing. some people i speak to in japan rate the hollinger, some rate the OS88 or HKS sequential. almost none use the trust/quaife box. yeah i've used an ikeya shifter. it's ok. not sure it's the best money spent and not sure it really imrpoves lap time. it does mean you wont miss gears i guess. it's also only as good as the box you sit it on top of. don't expect it to turn a standard nissan box into anything like that OS88 above... it also takes a little getting used to at first! their paddle shift set-up for standard boxes looks quite cool too. but again, not sure it's worth the dough. the one above probably looks savage next to marks hollinger as mark is using a strain sensitve gearknob which activates the ignition cut for smooth gear shifts. not sure that the endless car has that, from the look of the vid i'd say not. they just bash it into gear. edit: I should mention a friend in japan sent me pics of that car when it was getting built and when it was finished a year or so ago when we were just building the hi-octane R34. It was one of our benchmarks in look, and quality of finish etc. and I think we did even better.

I have found a pass that works on trains, subways, vending machines, planes, bars, brothels, ramen, and mos burger. it's called yen. carry lots of it. it's the one pass you need.

yes you need the GTR rotors. also the bolts will be too large to fit through your hubs so you either have to get the caliper lugs helicoiled (well time sert actually) to accept a 12mm bolt, or drill out your hubs to accept the 14mm bolt. also, they wont fit under most 16 inch wheels. you'll need 17inch+.

it's an OS88 full sequential 6 speed close ratio box. nothing like a conventional box with ikeya shifter.

I would be very sad to see Ferrari leave F1. but it certainly wouldn't be the end of F1 for me. it would be a big blow though.

but did they pressure test it hot? I know of a few now that did not show up under initial testing. car was puit back together and it happend again. crack was only opening up at temp. new head and the problem went away. it can sometimes be hard to diagnose. pourus block is less likely in my experience.

yeah but it would need new diff ratios at least. most likely running 4:4s and it's close ratio box. but yeah, no first gear corners at fuji!

great vids Ben! and nice work. and the ol RB20 sounds sweet as a nut. put a porsche flat 6 to shame in the noise stakes I reckon.

interesting. what's the whole thing look like?

soon mate, I'll be in touch. looking forward to a little break up north soon and if things go well I'll bring the 32 to play with.

the problem is the track and the driving style. of course it's going to be a bit of a handful when you are taking most corners in first or second gear! that is a pretty dinky little circuit, not really suitable for the car, and even a mild track GTR will light the tyres in first and second gear coming out of a corner....

yep, the above mods will get you the 250awkw but if you really want to enjoy it you'll need: clutch first. some decent tyres a few little suspension mods to get the most of the power. some decent brake pads and fluid and that should keep you happy for a while. if you want to go harder than that prepare to open your wallet wide.

the radiator mount ones are ones that mount between the intercooler and the radiator. they mount to the front of the radiator. the problem is with no ducting there and other heat exchangers (intercooler, air con core and radiator) they don't get good airflow and don't work as well as they should. I have used one that way (a trust kit on my old 32 GTR) but it was not as efficient as the exact same core duct mounted in my other 32.

on paper the GTR callipers and rotors are slightly better than the 33 GTST stuff. the GTR rotors are 2mm thicker and the callipers are supposed to be a little stiffer. in practice you would be hard pressed to pick any difference between them since they are the same 296mm diameter, are within milimeters of being the same thickness and the callipers are very similar. so I would personally not bother 'upgrading' your 33 GTST with 32 GTR brakes.

exactly. to be honest 1 type S will be much worse than stock, and even two Type S will be certainly no better than stock, and possibly worse as they have a very small valve. either keep the stock ones which are great, or get the type R one which is actually good. if you just want BOV noise then get some pods and a alluminium hard pip kit. at least it's actually beneficial as well as noisy.

The simple recipe for 250kw in an R34 GTR is as follows: high flow cat good cat back exhaust 14psi boost via decent boost controller (buy one now, you'll need it in future anyway, trust profec B II is good, simple and cheap). Apexi power FC high flow panel filter, or pods if you like them adjustable cam gears front pipes can do them if you want but they are not 100% needed. but they are easy to change so may as well do them (HKS ones are the go). get the boost controller, power FC and the cam gears tuned together on the dyno. it will take no more than a couple of hours and net you easily the 250awkw you want. it's a really sweet spot for a GTR. doesn't cost much. doesn't hurt reliability much. doesn't hurt response at all (better than stock) and the car will be great fun to drive. it's basically what you expected a GTR would be like standard! One other thing I'd suggest if you like driving hard and plan on some track days is get an oil cooler. it has lots of good benefits and will help your RB26 live a long life.

the best option is simple. and i've tried, or looked at, used, felt most of them. Tomei dumps with (the new) HKS front pipes. it's not the cheapest way, but it's the best. the tomei dumps are the only true 70mm+ dumps I've seen and are beautifully made. and the HKS front pipes are the only true properly made twin 70mm front pipes (most GTR front pipes are twin 60 or 65mm). the trust kit which is split dumps and fronts combined is also very nice, but it's hard to fit, and very, very heavy.

great news mate. looking very strong. I bet you can't wait to get it out and have some fun...

well fuel pumps can start to struggle the higher the pressure. and then their flow drops off. i have never seen a need to increase fuel pressure. if you need more fuel flow get a better flowing pump and some bigger injectors. I could only see it being worthwhile if you find you need just a little more fuel and are not planning to ever need more power. then by all means gain that little bit extra by upping pressure a little. and yes the higher the pressure the higher the risk of leaking injectors, leaking hoses etc.

buy a trust kit. sure there are cheap kits at only $350 or $400 but at a workshop they can cost up to $500 to fit as there is a lot of stuffing around to do it properly (route the lines, make a duct etc). The trust kits come with thermostat which a lot of the cheap kits don't. they come with good cores. they don't come with bonus bits of swarf or dags inside. they also come with lines that are the correct length not crazy long ones that have to be looped around. they also come with adapters to fit the proper filter for the car. they also come with quality re-usable earls fittings, not cheap fittings. plus they seal and never leak. they also come with all the extra little bits needed like mounts, ducting, conduit to protect the braid etc. It's easy to see where the money goes when you compare a $1000 trust kit to a $400 chinese kit. I know which one I'd buy. and I have used a number of trust kits now on my cars. one tip is do not get the radiator mounted one. get a kit that mounts the core in either of the side ducts. much better.

Vspec II. 2001 model, january. colour QX1.