Beer Baron

well there are base settings to start from (advance inlet a few degrees, retard exhaust a little) but it's one of those things you really need to do on the dyno so you can see the changes and get the result you want. some settings will give you more top end with no losses anywhere. some will give more top end with a loss in mid range some will give more mid range with a loss of top end some will give you less top end and less mid-range power and the money setting will give a decent midrange increase and a small top end increase with no loss anywhere. you really just have to test and see. every engine responds a little differently.

do yourself a favour and don't! T-bolt clamps are rubbish. personally I wouldn't use one to hold the expansion joint on my dunny!

it will affect the tune a little. personally I wouldn't do them on a stock ecu. if you're starting with a bone stock GTR my order of mods would be: exhaust (cat back and good cat at least, front pipes only if you really want to) pods or high flow panel filter ECU and EBC together. (power FC is good, cheap and easy to get tuned, and the hand controller is a handy monitoring tool) set boost to 14psi or whatever you're comfortable with. Cam gears. best idea is get the ecu, ebc and cam gears all together and get them tuned all together that way if it does affect your tune it can be compensated for. after that I'd add: nismo fuel pump (piece of mind, all GTR pumps are 10+ years old) some kind of hard pipe kit (stock piping set-up is pretty average) oil cooler (very good idea on any tuned RB26) then leave it there and enjoy 260rwkw without having broken the bank. That whole lot could be done under $5,000 inc labour and give you about 80rwkw gain over a stock 180rwkw 32 GTR. and it will be nice and responsive. yes it's possible to get your 240 or so rwkw but the stock ecu could well hold things up. Look at getting a nistune (apparently they can adapt a 32 GTR ecu to run your 33) or a power FC. they are the options I'd look at. second hand 32/33 power FCs often go as low as $800 or $900 which is a bargain. the biggest gain of the cam gears is midrange not top end.

the only place you can get them from... nissan. last I checked their 26 coils were about $300 each retail. why do you think people buy splitfires when their standard coils fail? it's not for the pretty blue colour that's for sure!

read before posting. it's in the first post. original engine was just tired. I wanted to do something a bit special with it.

thanks mate. and yes bonnet pins are very much a good idea on a carbon bonnet as they can and do flex when air gets underneath. even if they work with the factory latch at high speed air can get under and pull it out, or even break part of the bonnet so it's a much better idea to have it fixed at each side as well.

Hi Guys, I have 2, brand new genuine Nissan timing belts to suit any RB20 RB25 or RB26 engine. Going cheap at $80 each. They are good quality belts and worth replacing if you're fitting cams or cams gears or just due for major service. I also have a set of brand new R34 N1 Nur valve springs. these have a higher seat pressure and of course are brand new. A good upgrade if you are fitting upgraded cams to your R32 or R33 RB26 engine. It's good piece of mind knowing you have healthy valve springs in there. Going cheap at $220. brand new. All items in Sydney, CBD. Pick up from me in the city or chatswood. Postage $5 each item for most of Aus. Pics:

Hi guys, i bought this stuff on one of my trips to japan. bought it to give away as presents etc to friends and just forgot! was cleaning out some boxes and found them still wrapped up brand new, un-used. This stuff is 100% genuine and was bought by me direct from HKS and Apexi in Tokyo, Japan. (^_^) I have one of each. HKS T-shirt. it's a size L (asian size, so somewhere between Aussie M and L) It's white, has "HKS CREW www.hks-style.com" on the back and on the front has the classic HKS logo and underneath it says: HKS? It's a dynamic combination of creativity-the skillful manufacture of high-performance automobileparts and the people who design, distribute, and provide technical services. lol, more like a dynamic combination of english works to produce high quality japlish! but I love it. it's very nice quality like all japanese parts and is unworn still with tags. Asking what it cost me: $60 pics: I also have an Apexi Shirt. Nice and rear since Apexi went in and out of business and don't make much stuff like this any more. Grab your memento of one of the best tuning parts manufacturers in japan. It's grey, and is size M (about an Aussie size M this one). On the front it has the Apexi logo with an E beside it and underneath reads A'PEXi® | E2Ek1EL (ezekiel) on the back it has the apexi logo with A'PEX and EZEKIEL underneath. again it's high quality cotton and is a great looking shirt. It's also $60 which is what it cost. Pickup is from me in Sydney CBD, or post $5 each shirt. If you want both shirts I'll do the pair for $110 with free postage. Pics:

Can you believe I've had it nearly a year! I was planning to sell it much sooner, but it's hard to part with. someone will get a bargain. if I bought this car in japan right now and did the mods I did it would cost about $60K on road. luckily I bought when the AUD was buying 100yen so I can price it accordingly.

fatz you butt muncher, send johnnie my post. tell him to listen to me! I know the pivoting arm is the best thing for you guys since scented lube, BUT if these arms only offer the same amount of adjustment as every other set out there then you are only solving half the problem. I reckon make 2 types. A "camber correction" set for people who have very low street cars and want to 'correct' their camber back to factory spec for improved tyre wear. and make a "track spec" version for guys who want scope to run lots of neg camber at a reasonable ride height. OR just make one type of arm but with lots of adjustment both shorter or longer (I know this will make the arm weaker though). if you can do that I'll sell me $$$ noltec ones and buy some.

bargain! I might have to get some done on my povo silvia. BDAP 4 eva I say!!!

cool, thanks mate. who do you use to ship it and how much was the shipping on it? thanks again.

hi guys, Basic Specs: 2001 FD Mazda RX-7, 13B Twin Turbo RZ model (1 of only 175 ever made) 34,000kms 2,000kms on brand new motor and clutch (1,000kms on brand new Khumo Ecsta Tyres) All factory RZ parts still fitted. Excellent condition inside and out NSW Rego Owned and Garaged in Sydney CBD and only driven probably 2 weekends a month. The RZ was a special edition RX7 built right near the end of the production of the FD RX7s. It was the premium weekend racer type special and was the lightest FD produced. It had a number of little factory options that make it desirable and the RZ is the most collectible of all JDM RX-7s. It had the latest version of the 13B and the last revision of the turbos which pushed power up over 280ps from the factory. The RZ goodies: Specially made Recaro Carbon kevlar bucket seats in red, which have slide AND TILT option (very rare to be able to adjust the angle/height on fixed buckets) Nardi leather wheel Nardi Leather Gearknob RZ exclusive dials (nice white colour) Different leather trim (black with red stitching) exclusive RZ floor mats Soft touch dash finish No rear seats (has 2 storage bins instead) Passenger side big alloy navigators foot rest Drivers side alloy foot rest RZ Alloy pedals Drivers side left knee brace/cornering brace Drives side right knee brace/cornering brace RZ build plaque BBS 17X8 and 17X9 inch forged alloy wheels Bilstein sports suspension Exclusive RZ Pearl White colour (only used on RZ models and all 175 RZs are in this colour) red RZ decals on the C pillars Silver and gold "RX-7" Scuff plates Twin Factory oil coolers (one mounted in each side duct and they each have a drain plug for easy oil changes) With these options and the fact that is has alloy front guards and an alloy bonnet it has excellent weight distribution and is the lightest ever FD RX-7 coming in at just 1210kg. Pretty good for a car with nearly 300hp from the factory. This car also features: factory option CD and MD player factory remote central locking (remote built into key) tint Completely rebuilt engine, carried out after I bought the car at Pre-stage - a top Rotary tuning shop in japan. Cost over $10,000 and was kept very mild and did not remove any RZ options in order to keep the car original and collectible. Greddy front strut brace japanese stainless exhaust (beautiful sound - I wanted to keep the car standard, but an exhaust is a must for the sound and doesn't take away from the RZ options at all) All receipts for the engine work and parts purchased by me (totalling over $10,000) Photos of the engine build showing all the work and parts All the original log books and owners manuals Since it's time to end my rotor project and move on to something new here is the story of this car: I bought this FD RX-7 RZ model in japan about a year ago. I had just finished an R32 GTR/N1 Nur build and was looking for something special and different. This RZ came up at auction with just 30,000kms and was in great condition apart from the engine which was a bit low on compression. This suited me perfectly as I wanted a bit of a project. With that in mind I was able to buy it for a reasonable price (RZ's can command crazy money), and then spent around $10K having a brand new engine built for it at Pre-Stage in Japan (they hold 3rd place in the street class RX-7 drag records with their FC street drag car). A highly regarded rotor specialist in Japan. They are listed as a Rotary Pro Shop and acknowledged as having built national championship winning drag cars. The build included brand new factory housings that have received a very mild "street port" port job at pre-stage. It keeps the factory nature of the engine but a little more torque and power. I also installed a brand new clutch. The engine was built, tuned and run-in at their workshop in japan and then the car was shipped here to me. Since I've had it it's done very minimal kms and has had 2 oil changes to keep it healthy. The body is in great condition as is the interior. It has all the original RZ bits, passenger footrest, RZ dials, pedals, build plate, BBS wheels, Recaro Carbon Kevlar seats and the Nardi steering wheel and factory RZ bilsteins. It drives and handles like a new car. It's an exciting car to drive even at sane speeds. The only modifications to the car are a Ultra turbo timer/meter which displays speed, peak speed, boost, peak boost, and revs and peak revs and of course acts as a turbo timer. It also has a japanese stainless cat back exhaust which give the car a great note. It sounds beautiful. It also has a Greddy front strut brace. Apart from those minor mods it's all factory standard, and all the original RZ parts have been left alone. If you are after an unmolested RZ this is the one to get, as with the brand new jap built engine it should live a decent happy life. FD RX-7s have been known not to live long on their orignal engines as apparently the mazda QC was not that great. So buying a car that has a brand new 2008 built engine make a lot of sense. The car is registered in NSW and fully insured and has brand new Khumo ecsta tyres that I fitted all round when the car arrived in aus. They measure 255/45/17 rear and 235/45/17 front and are streets ahead of the rubbish most people fit during compliance etc. The car is available for viewing in the sydney CBD where it's garaged always. Since owning the car I also had the front lip restored back to the original factory grey look as it was ordered colour coded as a dealer option when new. I have loved the RX7 and found when I bought it I immediately stopped driving my R34 GTR and silvia in favour of the RZ. It's just so much fun to punt around in. The only car that got me out of it was the R35! It's now time for me to get back to another R32 GTR (my old 32 GTR street/track car) project so I really need to sell my baby. I've spent a lot of time and money on it so hopefully it will go to a good home. I'm asking $42,000 for it which I think compared to the other RZ models on carsales is a bargain considering the brand new engine in it and the fact that mine has ALL the factory RZ parts still intact along with photos of the build and all the supporting receipts and paperwork and the original manuals and log book. You will not find a better value or more collectible RX-7 for anywhere near this money. Some RZ models are going for over $60,000 and I've seen one that had half the RZ options missing and it was still $50,000. I have priced this for a quick sale. I don't really have any good pics, but these will give you an idea. To see how good it looks you really need to come check it out in person. It's a stunning car to see and hear. please contact me, Richard, via pm if you are interested. PS, sorry the photos really are crap but it's not easy to get good photos in a carpark! I will try to get some better ones this weekend. Half of these were taken in my garage, and the others were taken literally just after it got off the boat so it was a bit dirty. I have lots of documentation with the car. All the import paperwork, all the receipts for the engine build, the mazda genuine parts, the tyres etc. And I have the original owners book, log book and owners manual. Plus heaps of photos of the engine build that pre-stage took for me. one of the bills from pre-stage it still has all the tool kit and spare tyre etc too. Engine bay is neat and clean. The twin oil coolers. One is mounted in each side duct.

Hi Guys, As I have quite a few cars and do a bit of track work I'm forever changing oil. Since I only use the best stuff available (imo motul chrono) I got sick of paying retail for the stuff. So i went and did a big order and bought some at a discount. It's not huge discount but better than I could find it for anywhere retail. Now that I've done all my cars it'll be a while till the next change, so I have a fair bit left over. If anyone in sydney who wants some Motul Chrono 300V 10W40 I have some spare. I have some: Motul Chrono 300V 10W40, 2 litre bottles for $47 (retail $58) and some: Motul Chrono 300V 10W40 4 litre bottles for $93 (retail $110) Since I know a lot of cars use 5 litres etc and it's a bitch having to buy 6 litres one time then 4 the next I'm happy to split 2 litre bottles so you can just buy 5 litres or 7 or whatever you need. cost for 1 litre = $25 but you must bring a container to put it in. PM me for pick-details. Pick-up available in sydney city or chatswood. This is THE best shit for your GTR, GTS or GTST. I run it in all my cars from the stock NA subaru liberty to the R35 GTR and everything in between like the 32 GTR and RX7. Some info from motul on ester as a base: http://www.motul.com.au/fact_sheets/estel_oil.html and info on chrono 300V http://www.motul.com.au/product_line...4stroke03.html

mick personally I wouldn't go the 34 box. they are not really as strong as the 32/33 boxes. in fact a few 34 GTR owners both here and in japan have gone back to 33 boxes for their strength. the stock 34 boxes have problems with input shaft. though the nismo clutch kit for 34 comes with a new input shaft with different splines. plus if you go 34 box you need new clutch set-up and new tailshaft too which adds some more cost. I would look at getting something strong in the 33 box you have now, or consider OS88 or holinger but they are both $$$.

thanks mate, I will give it a shot.

HKS wont be of any help. they will just direct you to the retailer as they should. I'm not sure you'll even be covered by warranty as the goods were for use overseas. sadly it's the risk you take. if you want full warranty the way to get it is to buy from a local licenced distributor. hopefully they will accept it's a manufacturing fault and will replace it. but my advice is be prepared for the worst, and in the meantime try and get ahold of greenline.

it is most likely your 02 sensors. does the problem only occur when the throttle is held steady at a small opening? say 10% throttle, cruising along at 60km/h? does the car run fine through the revs if you floor it? at small throttle openings and low load/low RPM the cars ecu runs closed loop mixture control. so it's reading the values from the 02 sensor and adjusting fuelling to reach it's target value. if your 02 sensor fails then obviously it can't do this properly. the reason the car runs fine when you are acclerating is at those times the ecu is disregarding the 02 sensor input and is just running off the AFM, RPM and throttle position to give it a location on the fuel map. it's very easy to test the 02 sensors. if you have stock ecu you can use 'consult' or one of the products out there that interface with the diagnostic port and that will give you the 02 sensor readings. or if you have a power FC you can just look it up in the sensor check screen. I'd be checking the 02 sensors first as it's very easy to diagnose.

good choice. if you're in melbourne and want a big GTR engine built then you'd be silly to drive it past racepace on your way to a sydney workshop. hell you would probably pass a few northern GTRs heading south on the hume...

yep spot on. like you said if you are smart and come to the realisation that this "$20,000 track car GTR project" is realistically a "$20,000 this month but another $130,000 over the next 2 years GTR track car project" then you would be much wiser taking that budget and spending it on something else. a 996 GT3 cup car is a great choice if you have some dough. me and 2 friends ran one for a couple of years in prod sports (till my friend put it in the wall hard at T1 eastern creek). they are super reliable, and being so popular (well they were) there is a heap of parts and a heap of cheap second hand parts if you're on a tight-ish budget. being purpose built track cars they are reliable, tough, and fairly simple to work on and tune. and there are a heap of options out there that offer just as good value. BUT like I said there is something special about the GTR that keeps us retards coming back for more punishment and we should not forget they break because they are going way faster than they have any right to be as a 20 year old, japanese POS!

I think you meant to say... "expect to turn your wallet inside out".

yep, it's the wall thickness of the material that affects the sound though the material density does too. the big effects on sound are bends, mufflers and pipe diameter. but generally speaking mild tends to have a less tinny note than the cheap thin wall stainless exhaust (any of the china bulk produced ones). the japanese stainless systems tend to sound better. I love the sound of a big mild system too. but also love the sound of a high quality stainless system or a titanium system. they are all different and there are bad exhausts in all types of material.

noice. nearly done now. the intake was well worth the $ I reckon. nothing beats a multi throttle set-up. sound/looks/power it's the way to go.

nice. What type/brand of bonnet is that Andrew? it's nice looking.

good to see webber really does have the race pace. poor old basti is way off. a number of reasons for that though I guess. the chicane at monaco has to be one of the best in F1. watching them bounce through that change of direction you hold your breath every time.