Beer Baron

to read the plugs you need to do a full power/full revs run and shut the engine off at the top of the run. then remove the plugs to read them. if you let the car return to idle, or just drove normally before removing the plugs then it wont be as meaningful.

lol, power FC limited to 600cc injectors eh? hmmm. as a few fine gentlemen before me have posted that is most definitely not the case. I have run my own GTRs with power FC with both 600cc nismo and 700cc sard injectors and you can run 1000cc if you want. skys the limit. and nick makes a good point, it's worth getting some new o-rings from nissan before fitting them. the sards don't come with the lower injector o-rings so it's either pull the old ones off your old injectors or buy new ones. I know which route I'd take.

go the gas you heathen! glad to see it's up and running. tank looks just like the ones I slam my luggage into when hopping into a taxi. nice.

another reason why the trust gear is worth the money. i've now used the kit on 2 of my GTRs and love it. glad they worked well for you. though some would have you believe the stock pipework is better.... hmmm

I agree with all those points 100%.

good stuff. I know you trent. we used to do business years ago when I was importing GTI-R pulsars. I bought tons of RB74 brake pads from you for some GTI-R groups buys. probably 7 years ago now. well since I bought that cooler for charlie in japan and had it sent here I can tell you whatever you paid up to his asking price was a steal as it was not cheap at all. we scoured shops and yahoo etc for ages in japan to get it for him as he had his heart set on that exact cooler and nothing else. it was like christmas when we found is as since they had been discontinued we had given up hope of finding a new one for less than about $5K. lol, it was bought for a pretty penny then stashed in my friends apartment in azabu-dai, tokyo where it took up half his living room... as far as real big power drag type coolers go it's the daddy. I can't believe you sold it so cheap charlie. your car will be off the planet with the T62R etc. as far as I know there are only very few T62Rs in aus. a mate here in sydney currently has a T51R SPL BB that was about to go on, but he's now seriously thinking of selling it in favour of the T62 as well as he wants over 1000hp at the wheels. so who bought the crank charlie?

what you want to make will look something like this (this does the same thing, used as a 2wd/4wd switch in 32 GTR).

you just replace the ABS fuse with a switch. simple. remember to run a fuse though inline with your switch rated the same as the one you've removed.

yeah the 370z is a pretty cool car. I think it will be pretty popular.

yeah. now we're talking.

nah, most of those new teams will get knocked backs this time around. probably only USF1 make it in. and I think marco means 2010 as 2009 is half way over... to be honest all the politics nonsense detracts from the sport, not adds to it. I like the races, the drivers, the cars and the development behind the cars. but all the bullshit arguments is boring as hell.

d'oh, what time was it on?

they are $1100 for a piece of piping because they took the time to develop them from scratch (not by just copying someone else) and they spend the time and money on good materials, qualified and dedicated staff, excellent quality control and top quality materials. and of course our weak aud doesn't help. they do sound nice I guess.

I second that notion....

mark has moved to melbourne. I know he's had a lot of other GTR projects take up his time. but i'm sure he'll post soon with an update.

nice choice of crank and pistons. neither will dissapoint. the v-max crank is pretty horny though too...

yeah do the timing belt. in fact you can buy a brand new genuine timing belt off me! I'm selling two spares ones cheap... *cough... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Br...Rb-t272004.html

well that seems like the way to go. but try taleb too. they are good guys and can do pretty decent prices in my experience.

yeah that's probably the easiest way. plus they can post it so you don't have to pick-up.

well I've never cracked the old ones, nor heard of them cracking. but certainly the new ones would be even less prone to crack. any time you have welded pipe that is subject to wildly varying temps (from 0-800+ degrees) you have the possibility of cracking as the pipes heat and cool... expand and contract. but it was never a problem as far as my experience with them goes.

yeah bummer about that. I still kind of prefer the old ones. the manifolds use the same casting for the pipes and then welded together. this helps them resist cracking as the pipes have not been bent or section welded to form the bends, they have been cast that way. they are very nice too. you can just see the inside of the welds inside the collector. so nicely made. here's some pics of my tomei dumps. i've now used them on 2 of my GTRs and had a few sets for mates etc too. still have one set new in their box at home for spares! I would say the main reason of the move to the new style would be ease of fitment (with smaller pipe), ease of casting, lower cost to produce and most importantly consistency in manufacture. since having a few sets of the old style ones I did notice some were just a tiny bit better than others. obviously made by different people/different day etc. but still within an acceptable range. I sold that set above for about $600. how much did you guys pay for the new ones?

price drop. $55 each or $100 for the pair. rock on.

all the diffs have front and rear bushes to mount them to the subframe. GTST and GTR.

cam gears are definitely worth doing. cheap to buy and fairly cheap to install and need 1 or 2 hours of set-up and you'll get good gains on stock or small turbos. up to 30kw mid range is possible and usually some decent top end gain too.

you can just buy one from nissan. not sure on RB25 but RB26 is 12309-05U00. cost about $10. and if you're replacing the bolt replace the washer too it's 12308-05U00 and cost even less. and a good idea to replace the backing plate too if that was worn, 13023-05U10. the whole lot should only be $20. it's a bloody important bolt and gets some serious torque on it. I'd buy genuine for sure.