Beer Baron

what the fk? I can't remember what it was before there? 80kmh?

well these are just undertrays. a front splitter acutally gives some aero affect in extending the leading edge of the front lip. have a look at what johnny's doing merlin. and funky, that one is awesome but may be a little too extreme! I was thinking 2-3inch extension or there abouts.

have had pistons ceramic coated before and with moly coated skirts. and bought HKS step 3 pistons before which have a ceramic crown, moly skirt and some kind of titanium coating on the ring lands. I don't really know what if any difference it made but the theory seems sound.

there is not much difference between the type A or B set. you'll be happy with either. and yes there is no problem with running different brand cams gears with the cams. though having said that I prefer the tomei gears to the HKS ones. but if you already have HKS ones I would just use them.

one suggestion I would have is making it a combo splitter/undertray. the splitter is very important.

yeah it's possible. they are without question the nicest fron pipes i've seen. the next nicest were the nismo ones but they are twin 60mm. I had the nismo ones and upgraded to the HKS. hmm, now that the nice big tomei dumps are discontinued I'll have to hang onto the ones I have. I have a feeling part of the reason for the new ones is ease and cost of manufacture. there is something nice about the old welded ones. they look more like artwork than car parts.

which ones is new? the one on the right? shame they are smaller now. I was talking about the ones on the left as being approx 75mm ID. as fas as I've been able to find the only common off the shelf front pipes that are that large in the primaries are those HKS ones. They are very, very nice. I think they are about $800 delivered or so from japan. I reckon they are worth it thouh, it's a shame to get nice large dumps only to bolt twin 60mm front pipes onto them.

yeah heat range 7s. 0.8mm gap should be fine. I'm lately a big fan of the trust irridiums. my bloody silvia will misfire on regular NGK copper 8s but runs sweet as on the trust NGK irridium 8s. both sets gapped at .8mm. the blitz ones are the same too.

yea mate that is spot on. Yes that set-up is illegal for road use as it vens to atmosphere but it's the best performance wise as none of the crap is making it back into your intake. if you want to keep it legal the end with the filter can be plumbed back to the right of that picture where the original set-up fed into the intake.

yeah the Tomei dumps are about 75mm ID outlet. the best match for them is the current model HKS stainless front pipes which are 76MM ID as well into single 85 or 90mm ID. they are much better than the old twin 60mm HKS front pipes which everyone copied and the new ones use better flanges, better pipe and the pipe is welded to the flanges on the inside of the pipe which creates a nice smooth almost bell mouth type effect. not cheap, but they are qualiy.

Taleb Tyres in sydney (tempe just near heasmans) have them in stock already. I think they have one set each of the dunlops and the bridgestones. their prices were good when I was there. I would call them for sure and ask. I'd say they'll be close to the cheapest place to get some.

yeah I honestly have not found any benefit in comparing what I pay with other people. all it will do is either make you feel good, or make you feel bad depending on how much others pay. but given how many factors are considered in your quote it's impossible to accurately draw a conclusion on which company is best. you just need to ring and get quotes from as many as possible and decide which is best for you. hell you could even ring the same company twice and get 2 different quotes with the same info depending on the salesperson you talk to and depending on how the interpret that info into their risk calculations. aside from that there is a lengthy thread on this exact topic in this section already. thread closed. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...mp;hl=insurance

just stick with the RB26 head, block and RB26 internals. it's not like forged RB25 internals are any cheaper. and there'd be no point in installing standard RB25 pistons, rods and crank into an RB26 block and head. you may as well use the standard RB26 gear if you're going to do that. yes the RB26 head is better than RB25. solid lifters vs hydraulic and of course it comes with the ability to use the nice GTR 6 throttle inlet and forward facing plenum.

fuel pump wont really help. the standard injectors and pump are pretty evenly matched. ie the injectors can't outflow the pump. UNLESS the pump is failing and not flowing it's rated capacity. just fit the turbo, then get it tuned straight way. best way to go.

this is very easy to fix. remove the FPR. and replace with standard. you don't need it. remove the Z32 AFM and replace with standard. the standard ECU works with the standard AFM. you cannot get any safe improvement by just bolting on a Z32 afm. your ecu needs to be re-tuned to suit it. so without a programmable ecu, or chip, or SAFC then forget the Z32 afm. do not bother buying an air fuel ratio gauge. they are a complete waste of time and money. if you really want to check your airfuel ratios then you need a proper wide band O2 sensor, a boss welded in your exhaust to fit it, and a wide band 02 display. this will cost upwards of $500 and to continue to work correctly you need to carefully use, maintain, and calibrate the sensor. they are easily damaged. you don't even necessarily need the bosch pump unless there is something wrong with your standard one. it's a simple matter to have your stock pump tested for flow and if it aint broke why fix it? if you really want to keep the Z32 then get the SAFC and get the car tuned. that way they can check your air fuel ratio is ok, and tune the SAFC so your car runs safely with the Z32 afm.

they are a good piece of gear. I had these on my 34 GTR. very nice suspension, gave it a great stance and handled very nicely. I honestly don't think the bilsteins would be much (any) better! they also have remote canisters on the front which is a good thing, enables them to hold a lot of oil. if they are in good condition then $1000 is very fair money for them. this is the height they were at on my 34. good ride height, maybe a little low with the deep front lip, but it looked and felt great.

the afms bolt to the airbox. and yes there is some ducting that runs to the airbox. and a hole lot of resonator noise reduction crap that you don't need. try and get one as complete as possible. and a small useless fact for you, the 32 airbox is metal. 33 and 34 are plastic.

I would guess standard, but if you tell me your chassis number I can check for you if they run a different clutch. there are a lot of little differences so it's possible.

yep, my money is on G4 cooking the ignitor, or possibly faulty earthing. both are easy to check/remedy. and no, the HKS DLI does not replace the ignitor. it's just added to the system.

ARC airbox is ok, but they are bloody heavy and pretty expensive too. if legality is a concern for you then the best option is to track down a standard airbox and fit a good panel filter (K+N are good). it wont stop you making more power. otherwise just replace the pods with some new ones.

yep, proengines has been making and fitting them for ages now. at $150 a pop it's hard to go wrong. can buy direct from their website too.

best one is one that fits between standard battery and headlight and use 22mm pipe to it. leave the bride from left to right cover in place. block the other outlet on the passenger side, then on the remaining drivers side outlet send that to the can. have a large vent on the can and put a filter on it as your engine breathes out as well as in! you can fit a 3l can in that space which is plenty. NOTE: this wont work if you have a big arse battery. switch back to a small stock size battery, not only will you now have more space, but you save some weight too.

hey brad, what type of sequential do you have that broke 3rd?

looking good fatz, shame about your head. tight body though.

honestly bearing type has about as much impact on the turbo power and response as the colour of the box it came in. the myth that if a turbo is ball bearing it's more responsive than any bush bearing is just that. a myth. the things that dictate power and response of a turbo is the sizing of the housings, their A/R, the matching of compressor size to turbine size, wheel trim, wheel size and many others. bearing type is at the bottom of the list. the main reason many companies went ball bearing was to increase service life. it's more a reliability thing than a response thing. a decent high performance 270 or 360 degree thurst bearing is fine. when running the shaft is floating on a layer of oil and not touching any metal. sure there should be some friction gain in ball bearing but it's hardly the deciding factor.\ trust make some great high performance aftermarket turbos but often get shunned cause they are not ball bearing. big deal. bush bearing are also easier and cheaper to rebuild the core. ball bearing s require a new bearing pack/core assembley which is up to $1000 for some models.