Beer Baron

I would not make your own out of earls fittings and hose. since you can't pressure test, or whip test, or QC them properly yourself then you are leaving yourself open to problems. they are subject to some pretty hardcore pressure, and pulsing. the nismo ones are well prices for what they are. they will fit perfectly, they look good. they have a nice protective coating over the braid and they will keep you safe.

beer baron need money. hence RB26 out the door! it's fully running and with good compression (had it checked before it was pulled out of the car). has a brand new sump on it too as it was replaced with a new R34 N1 Nur motor and for ease of install we took the sump off the 32 motor and slapped it onto the 34 motor. it wasn't out of a wreck or anything. Just clean 1994 R32 GTR we bought and put a new N1 Nur motor in. anyway, if anyone wants it I'll be putting up a FS thread soon.

the iphone app looks good too. I might give it a crack for fun. try it against the mychron and see how accurate it is.

yep, hence why I said "if there is room to use one". sadly on so many 90s turbo jap cars there is not enough room to turn one in there. you may find it easier to jack the car up or put it on a hoist and get at it from underneath though.

yep, there is supposed to be clips. from memory 2 on top and bottom and 1 on each side. they are sort of a spring. so you can push the vent in, then the spring pops out and holds them there. most likely the vents you got are not genuine. edit, they look like this. you can see the clips along the top.

fark 137kegs you will look positively anorexic. no need for $10K engine. I have a nice, complete RB26 out of a 1994 R32, wide crank drive, excellent compression, all yours for $3750. guaranteed to chirp something...

avoid punching a screw driver through it if you can. I have done it before when I've got the shits with an overtight filter and once when some clown installed a filter with the wrong thread but it's very, very messy and even worse it means if you still can't get it off you're not going anywhere as you now have a nice hole (or 2) in your oil filter. you can get a strap type tool which is quite good, or if there is room you can use the tool with the fingers on it that you operate with a ratchet. sometimes a small sqaure of that non-slip stuff you use to open jars etc can work too. make sure your turning it the right way too! sounds silly but I know blokes who've gotten disoriented and been wanging it up tighter and wondering why it wouldn't come off...

this is what I use. easy to use. easy to set-up. easy to read. and so many people have aim sports timers so there is always plenty of beacons at the track if you can't be buggered putting yours out. and they are well priced. and you can do sector times etc if you want (with extra beacons). http://www.aimsports.com/products/tg/index.html

well it's been a while since I looked closely at an ETM but the ones I have seen were ok port finish wise. matty he's not talking about cosmetics. he's talking flow wise. I do agree though the recent 6boost mani's i've looked at have very nicely finished ports and collector. and they always do.

here is a text book case for you. guy bought new rear tyres and fronts were worn. all tyres were the same size etc. car started getting awd faults. when it faulted into 2wd car drove ok. when it was in 4wd car would surge and shudder... what do you reckon the problem was? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/At...ng-t130266.html

so your not recommending it now? just arguing it can be done? well that's a one sided argument. I agreed it could be done in my first post, but that it SHOULDN'T be done. you agree it can cause awd problems but you want to continue arguing with me.... so if you know it's a bad idea why did you tell him to run 235 fronts and 255 rears? is that the best set-up in your GTR circuit experience? I look at probably in the hundreds of circuit GTRs every year ranging from road cars that do 1 or 2 track days a year, to full on half a million dollar race cars and they ALL use the same size tyres front and rear. but if you know better tell me why it's a good idea. Perhaps they can all improve based on this new revelation. you keep arguing it can be done. I know it can be done. I acknowledged that in my first post. of course it can be done, but again what's the point? It's like saying you can drive a car with no gearknob. yes it may cause a sore hand. and it may not. but either way it offers no benefit so why would you bother? it is a dumb idea. it's worse performance wise and it MAY cause problems. so why on earth would anyone waste time trying to get it to work, sitting their calculating how to get the same diameter out of different width/profile tyres is a waste of time. as for evidence of worn/new tyres causing attesa problems, have a search of this forum and you'll find some. or talk to any good GTR mechanic and he will have seen some over the years.

ok, that changes things. if the only thing that's changed since it was driving fine japan is piping then most likely you have a leak somewhere, or something is not connected properly (ie hoses back to front, swapped etc). you need to go over all the piping again. why was piping removed between here and japan?

well they have made a few of those rads now. having said all that their gear is top shelf. once you get through the standard order process of receive, swear, return, receive, swear, return, receive, rejoice, use. then it's all good.

how good are the ikeya front LCAs dazzmo? they are THE front LCAs to get. a much better design over others that just mirror the factory ones. and how farken huge are the castor rods. they never look big in pics but in your hand they are about 1.5 times the diameter of most aftermarket ones, and the way they mount into the LCA is so much better. you'll love them.

lol, I see you have given PWR exact measurements and application details before with an order only to have something completely wrong turn up. I thought me and the 300 other people I spoke to were isolated incidents... so you order a custom rad. give them all the details, maybe even a cad drawing if you are so inclined. they say 10 days to make. 20 days later you get a box unannounced. inside it is a radiator. completely different to what you wanted. you call and say WTF? they say, "oh" sorry, do you want to keep it for 20% off? we don't really want it back? you say no. they say ok send it back. they then say, oh, we have the one you wanted here off the shelf, we can send tomorrow... WTF??? send the rad. this time it is right. then they might send you another one and bill you twice just to keep you guessing. lol.

yeah I would just send your turbo to him. and the wastegate(s) too for that matter.

but for the love of god why would you want to? it looks worse. it handles worse. it's less economical. and yes sure you can make it work, but often it doesn't. so why?? and the tolerance is not that much. it's small enough that people have had problems when fitting new fronts with worn rears of the same size even.

it could be so many things. search for attesa diagnostics either google or in the forum and run the diagnostic sequence then check the diagnostic light flashes to see if any fault codes come up. if they do follow up whatever they indicate is not working. if nothing comes up check the basics first. do you have the same sized tyres all round? are all the wheel speed (ABS) sensors intact? they can be easily damaged as they are quite exposed. you've already checked the fluid level. can you hear the pump prime when the car is turned on? go to a workshop and get them to put a pressure gauge on the pump. good workshops will know how to test the awd and know what type of pressure the pump should be outputting under certain conditions. anyway, start by checking for fault codes.

DJR is right too, the best bang for buck wheel and tyre package for a 32 on the track is a set of 17X9s somewhere between +18 and +30 with some 235-255 semi slicks on them. there are heaps of wheel and tyre choices in this size. 33 GTR wheels are not bad at 17X9 +30, are forged, sort of light weight, strong and cheap and plentiful. a set of those with some 255 RE55s bridgestones will be good as a set of track wheels. I actually have 3 sets of 17X9s for my 'track 32'. BBS LM GPs for street in +20, Enkei NT-03s for circuit in +18 and weds sport TC-05s in +20 for circuit too.

yes I am serious. I don't need to "check the specs" on the R35, I've owned 1 and imported 3 of them. and driven many. yes they run different tyres front to rear. it's also a completely different car with a completely different AWD system and is designed to run with those sizes from the factory. R32, 33 and 34 are not designed to run different sized tyres from the factory. i never suggested a GTR would explode by running different sized tyres. I just suggested that it was a dumb idea. and it is. you only have to look at the number of people with awd problems in their GTRs after fitting different sized tyres to know it's a problem. and again why would you do it? tell me what is the benefit of running smaller front tyres? I would have thought less front grip was a bad idea not a good one.... unless you like sliding wide at every apex on the track. to re-cap. the benefits of running the same sized tyres front to rear on a GTR: you get more front grip for better handling balance you can choose from the wide range of GTR suitable offset and size wheels (which are all in pairs of 4 the same size) you will have trouble free AWD operation you can rotate tyres front to back (important as the fronts will wear faster, you get a fair bit more lift by doing this) running different sizes: will be hard to find GTR suitable offset and size wheels less front grip will give you plenty of understeer the now smaller front tyres will have to work even harder as there is less of them and will wear even quicker than they normally would you can't rotate them front to rear anymore which means less tyre life you may have AWD problems (the fact that they will wear even quicker than usual often means you may not have problems when they are fitted new, but as the size gap between front and rear grows with wear you will run into problems as the wheel speed sensors detect what appears to be front wheel spin ALL THE TIME) your GTR will look silly with it's small front tyres.

lol, yes that is the problem with the overboost protection features. they only work if everything is working. and if everything is working why is it overboosting? hehe. the only time is if it's tuned wrong so i guess it's mildly handy for that. but yeah, once a hose or fitting splits the overboost protection does bugger all.

yep the PWR rads with oil/coolant heat exchanger are the way to go. when you look at the price of a nice rad like a koyo and a good oil cooler like say a trust kit then the price of the PWR all in one solution makes a lot of sense. and like DJR81 pointed out you then have the passenger side duct free for something else like CAI.

nope, look at the pics. see the caliper with the line still attached? it's the left front. it has the bleed nipple on the left of pic. so when on the car it will be pointing at the ground. no big deal though as troy said you'll need to swap the nipples with the bridge line so the nipples are up the top of the caliper when fitted to the skyline.

i'm sorry but that was poor advice. you need as much front tyre as you can get on a GTR. and a 235/45 is not the same as 255/40. one has a sidewall height of 102mm one is 106mm. it might not affect attessa, but then again it might. it's not worth the risk, and again you are just wasting front grip by running smaller tyres on the front. you can easily fit 255s on the front. what the absolute max is I don't know. you could get custom offset wheels to maximise every mm of available clearance both inner and outer but bear in mind every car is different. castor setting, camber setting, height setting, wheel offset and even tyre brand and model (all are slightly different) will have a bearing on what size you can fit. so there is no real hard rule. what will easily fit on one GTR will rub on another. to be safe you can comfortable run 255s on your R34 rims and they are a good size for that wheel. I would go either 245s or 255s. if it's for track use and you are using semi slicks a 235 or 245 will be a good fit (semi slicks tend to be wider in any given size than road tyres. a 235 semi slick will be about as wide as most 255 road tyres).

ideal choice for 280rkw = ARC front mount.