Beer Baron

that's the spirit troy, put gary and his tarted up forklift motor in his place!

johhny mate, if you so much as smack a GTR in a dream you had better wake up and apologise!

Rob, sure I can ask Tets at prime about his thoughts, but to be honest the advice from djr81 and sydneykid will be just as accurate and relevant. also I wont get a response for a bit as it's a japanese national holiday at the moment. the main reasons they run the 2 piece in factory road cars is: 1. to reduce NVH and 2. safety. running a 1 piece without a tailshaft loop or 2 can be a problem as if the uni joints at the front fail the thing can become a nice long pole vault as the front digs into the tarmac sending you on a merry journey. it's not common by any means but can happen. though this problem can be minimised wih a simple loop to catch the shaft if this happens.

nice one duncan! you are a champ mate, good to see you out there battling on. a credit to you and your helpers.

looks like another top weekend. well done to all the organisers, it's a credit to the club. very sad I couldn't make it.

better than fatz for the arse bandito award.

why would you refit standard dash and seats? it can never be used as a road car and those parts are not suitable for track use? it will take probably at least $100K to turn it into a decent track car, but i don't know what (if any) class it would be elligible for. so then you have one mighty expensive track thrash car. Think of all the gear you need to get RB26 engine loom all the intake gear brakes, all the brake piping heater gear box all the drive shafts hubs arms basically every little nut and bolt. really what you would have to do would be buy a second working R34 GTR. then transfer over every last piece to the shell. then you need to start adding the track oriented gear another $50K there. it would be a good buy for a couple of grand but not much more than that.

F1s run V8s.....

don't know if I'd go that far. conventional manual transmissions are fun to drive. but in this case a conventional manual box would removed the biggest feature of the car and drastically diminish it's performance on the strip, the circuit and the street. like I said before it's the DSG that makes the GTR what it is and is the main secret behind it's awesome on track pace. so yeah, no way will they be removing it.

now that you have a rebuilt engine, some rebuilt turbos, and bigger injectors your best bet is to bite the bullet and buy a Power FC. it can be easily tuned for your larger injectors and I would say you can safely run 18psi. that should give you around 300rwkw and at this point your air flow meters will be maxing out (not a huge problem though, it can be tuned around). mines ecus are not the death boxes people make them out to be. japane hi-oku (hi octane fuel) is not some magic fuel. yes it's better than our 98RON but not by much. back when we had only 91 and 95 sure there was a big difference, but not so much these days. yes many mines maps run very rich and also run lots of timing. providing you get it checked on a dyno and look at the AFRs and have somone listen for detonation they can be fine. but yeah, in your case now that you are after more power, switch to something programmable.

add to that Jeff and his crew at brandster have been developing 32 GTR race cars for years now and there is a lot of know how behind them. Fark, I've been in Jeffs garage at his work and there are enough GTR parts in there to sink a ship. many of them modified and/or developed or refined by those guys over the years. They have been one of the few real serious guys working at making a 32 GTR fast over race distance in the last 5 years. I would say Jeffs car with dave behind the wheel will be top 5 for sure and most likely top 3.

yep, the apexi Z32 intake kit will work fine. it will just mean selling your current pods and adapters and buying the new gear. not the cheapest way out but probably the easiest.

I thought I was the favourite? or maybe fatz?

well my feeling is going from a 2 piece to 1 piece will definitely indtroduce some more NHV. the factory one with the centre donut obviously dampens things nicely. as to whether or not it will be unbearable on a GTR I'm not sure, I haven't specifically used a 32 GTR with one in it. in some models of car the are fine, in others they are pretty average. also consider unique autosports: www.nismo.com.au sell 1 piece alloy shafts for about $400 and are still very light.

I would not get too excited about the Spec V guys. everyone seems to think it's going to be a wild beast with 100 more hp, and hundreds of kilos lighter with carbon everything and a conventional manual gearbox. look to the past. V Spec versions have typically contained mild changes and with a car like this anything they do will be fairly subtle too. My predictions: different colour options (possibly trim options too) different wheels different suspension parts and set-up differen brakes or at least different pads lighter curb weight but not by very much I'd say less than 100kg lower weight than standard possibly more agressive engine mapping and raised boost to give around 50ps more power other small detail changes (a bit of carbon or titanium here and there, some decals/badges etc) possibly a differen exhaust (titanium would be nice) what definitely WON'T happen: they will not drop the DSG for Spec V models. no way, no how. it is what makes the car so fast and so special, and a Spec V would need about 200hp more than the standard car just to keep up. no way will they make a new more expensive version that is slower than the base model. they will not find some magical weight saving netting them 350kg off the standard model. it's impossible they will not have a wild power increase. certainly not the 800hp some people are quoting. I would say any power increase will not be more than 100hp tops. I am actually surprised people are so excited by the spec V. sure it will be nice, but I really don't think it will be anything that much more special than the regular R35 GTR.

well this should explain my resolution question. and why mine defaults to 720p. pinched from another forum: "There are 3 types of HD games on the PS3. Games that are 720p native (will not run at higher resolutions). Games that are 1080p native (will run at 720p, 1080i & 1080p). And games that support 720p & 1080i. You can't force or "trick" a game to run at 1080p if it doesn't support it. What you are doing is getting it to run at 1080i, then the PS3 is outputting the signal progressive. The reason games that support 720p and 1080i default to 720p is that 720p outputs at 60 frames-per-second, and 1080i is half that (30 fps). Visual detail on a moving image is about the same for both resolutions (1080i is twice as many pixels, half as fast) but the higher frame rate is better for gaming. So when you try and force a game to 1080p you are actually getting a lower frame rate, and no increase in quality. The reason they put 1080i support in games is that some older HD sets do not have 720p (they are 1080i only for HD), and on those sets a 720 only game ends up running at 480p SD resolution (Sony never enabled full hardware scaling for HD games). The game knows the best resolution to run at, so don't waste your time trying to "trick" it because you can't get 1080p out of a game that doesn't support it. Games that have true 1080p support will run at 1080p. If the game picks something else then that is the best resolution for the game. NOTE: COD4 is a special case because it does "support" 1080p output, but it is not rendered at 1080p. COD4 has software scaling built-in to the game engine. It is actually rendered at 600p and scaled to whatever resolution your TV requires, so the game is not really a 1080p game."

nah, they are one piece. the two piece one is the standard shaft. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=148802

I'm not so keen on your spot andrew. very prone to damage, I also question how much good airflow it's actually receiving there especially considering on that angle it's only showing a very small frontal area.

lol, it looks like I may have helped after all!

no problem driving the car for a while on the base tune. personally I wouldn't be taking it to the circuit or drag strip in that time but just driving around will cause no problems.

from memory it will flash the check engine light dunc, not the cat temp light. don't think that will help you though

yeah sadly it's getting more common in 32 GTSTs now that they are nearly 20 years old. the nicest solution is to just fit a GTR tank which as mentioned above is plastic and doesn't suffer the problem (obviously!). it's probably better than going custom. and being plastic they are a bit safer too

yeah? hmm I'll have to pay attention again, but I swear it said 720p.

I say get it for the one which has the controller you favour.

fair enough. I do know from experience PWR can be a bit hit and miss to deal with. they have some nice products though. maybe worth shelving the holy war on paul weel and just give in as it's a known performer. I agree it's a bit of a beast but by golly it works well enough for mark and russ and they are making 150% of the horsepower of most of us, and I know they punt their car pretty hard.