XKLABA

yes, most every thing from the 33 will fit the 34, i just brought a Apex'i radiator for a 33 and it drops straight into the 34

at what stage is this, ie is the head bolted on, does it have cams and the covers on etc. if not does it have a head gasket and what is the comp ratio set at if the standard head gasket was to be used. location ?

willing to separate and send crank only to sydney

can post a pic of the intake/turbo side of engine, as you say it has a TD05 so the piping may have been changed, if the stock intake pipe is still in place then there will be a port to plumb it back into. if the TD05 turbo has the standard T25 flange setup them just buy the dump pipe as stated already, pic of screamer from turbo would help with advise aswell

nice car, I live not to far from mounty and am at bucks alot and haven't seen this car, when you say Z31 motor is it a VG30?, I only ask cause I believe these cars where the test bed for the RB26. Unfortunately as per forum rules you are required to give a price. ps don't use caps, people think your yelling

make sure the coils are in place properly ( the right way around and all the way down ) and the plugs are on the coils correctly

here is one that was done not long ago Wilwood link

or it was 1000 Shetland ponies

Thats gold, hahaha :rofl2:

fairly sure the sensors in the road that detect your speed should also be able to tell the cops what lane the speeding car was in, other wise the cameras take two pics so the car that moves further from picture to picture wins the ticket

i have black one and am in sydney

Agreed, except boost, 12psi is stock on a GTR, pull out the restrictor and you get 15psi, a good boost controller will help boost come on a bit sooner by not letting the waste gate "creep" open. I use 15psi everyday driving/track events and 19psi for drags and dyno with no problems on stock turbos

what size is the silencer and how much power/air flow is your car putting out, the more power you make makes more air flow, the more the silencer become a restriction

When i pulled out the rear steering of the 32 gtr I wondered how hard it would be to use one of those lines for fuel supply and the fuel suppy line as the return line ?

This means get a timing light, remove No 1 coil get a old school lead for twim cam cut it in half stick one end on the spark plug and the other end in the coil and read the timing light off the lead, we on the other hand just open the timing light reader and hold it against the front of the coil with it still in place, to check if you base timing is correct. + 1 on comp results as for the dump pipes, it was a suggestion for something to check as a possibility, coming from things i have exprienced in the near 10 years i have been playing with these cars and was something I reseached heaps in the path of getting the 32 as fast as it is. The front pipes on 34 where the HKS ones with a 76mm in and 80mm out equal length, I don't think there was 20kw from changing them. Just trying to help

when you say it holds boost on the street, are you running 4th gear to the rev limit same as the dyno? or is it in a lower gear, cause in a lower gear the engine isn't loaded up as much so it isn't sucking the same air. which stock intercooler do you have, because all 3 GTR intercoolers are different with the 32 one being best for flow but not for cooling,if it is a 33 intercooler ( which i have one here ) I would start there next and make sure it isn't the issue, cause if it is a resriction then it could be lifting the intake pressure to the intercooler higher to get the pressure at where the reading for EBC coming from to 18psi which would increase intake temp aswell as add back pressure to the exhaust manifold. I have seen these intercoolers make close to this power on a 2.6 but the 3ltr might use more air, also what comp ratio do you have

hahaha yeah pain is arse, but got it thanks, 5 inch cordless angle grinder with a 1mm disc, cold chesiel and a big hammer and it fell right off so now i can send the crank off for preping tomorrow, cheers mate

how do I get it to come off straight the problem I've got is I can't get the puller on it anywhere so it looks like a screwy in behind with a hammer : (

trying to remove the timing belt gear off crank to get oil pump off so i can drop crank out, does anyone know an easy way cause this one has got me f**ked

also just cause something can handle a certain power that doesn't always mean it will help you make it, as John from UAS says "good is the enemy of better"

you can run that boost for short spurts, dyno and drags but not burnouts or track events and have done so for 8 years now with two sets of turbos, first set had to be changed cause the bearing where gone with 4mm + shaft play and no damage to either wheels. yeah comp test is a good start but if it isn't given a slight wiff of blue smoke from exhaust then i'd say comp would be good, a small but consistent leak would be over come with the boost controller making the boost level, also check there isn.t a leak around the exhaust manifold before the turbos, even a small leak will rob power. Joe, the design of the dump pipe can make a big difference ( bigger then front pipes ) in both responce and power and if you get to see the CES comp series pipes in real life you can see way they work so well, I've tried a few styles on both the 32 and 34 and i have CES on both now, the normal ones on the 32 with equal lenght front pipe and the longer comp ones on the 34

I have 12 degress on intake and 10 on exh, and with stock cams and stock turbos the R32 makes 292rwkw @ 19 psi, the 34 has 10 degress intake and 4 exh with poncams and -7s made 310rwkw, so 8 in and 4 exh i doubt thats going to cause the problem. I'd be looking at the intake pipes for a leak or crack, check all hose clamps are on right and tight, check the BOVs bolts are done up tight, even go around the plenum with a can of brake clean with engine running and see if idle changes at all to see if a gasket has given way or a small hose hasn't come off. 6/7 kw is a sizable loss but not what your looking at as the problem but something I'd be looking at improving Take out air filter and stick a screw driver handle in the airbox to hold it open and see if that helps them mayby look at different dump pipes as x-force are an upgrade to only the stock 32/33 stuff but only just and are not the best, I picked up 20kw (290 awkw to 310rwkw) from changing from HKS dump pipe to the CES Comp Series dumps and front pipes, I hate knocking stuff so this is really only a suggestion

got an alarm with immobiliser, had something similar happen to a friend and his 180, just a suggestion

disc size

+1, read his build thread, dude knows his shit, after reading his build i know where i want my engine going