XKLABA

it's amasing what can be stuffed in a bag and shoved in the over head, I have Excedy twin in the 32, and Excedy triple in the 34, not had a drama with either, the twin is silent and drive better then the factory clutch and has about 1000 7500rpm launchs and this kind of abuse the triple is a bit niosey and a bit bitey, but takes the same abuse without fail

It's the new merterial one I am expecting, Ito have heard of the new spline, but that would mean putting a new crank collar on, which is ok if you are about to or in the strat of a build but to just replace the pump means a far bit of work

double post

oil filter relocator is the reason it went and your 2ltrs oil is in the oil cooler, same thing happened to mine, did oil change drove for one day then to EC for track day. car got to temp and thermostat in oil system opened and let all the pressure go to the oil cooler and let a air pocket from the cooler into the engine and bang lost engine. $35,000k for this car is a real bargan, worst case $1500 for a new crank, $1000 for rods $150 for bearing and $350 for a head gasket + labour, so for under $40,000 you have an awsome car. GLWS

me to, especially with the RSs to see if it also help them come on sooner

this, I am expecting mine this week, when I recieve it I'll post a few pics

any chance you had just done an oil change? I did a spun bearing in my 34 and the crank looked perfect just a bit of scuffing on the big end, had it checked and it was 30tho bent and cracked, has the crank been checked for this ?

no dramas

3.0ltr, go the 2530s, slightly "bigger" then -5s and would respond better on a 3.0ltr then -5s on a 2.8

perfect sense, which means the water level in side your engine is the level of the top radiator hose where it meets the engine, if you put the the front of your car on ramps and get it high as possible air should come out the radiator cap

the colder thermastat need the cold maps on your tune changed or the cold map will be in use and it will run rich, and may even heve the auto chock on, if the motec has it active

where is the feed for the turbo comming from, if it from the factory turbo feed then you need to get one that conects higher in the head to get the air out from there

your fastter then me at typing, system sounds good, the factory thremastat opens at 76.5deg, what we have found is there is a cavity in the head that unmodifed holds air from getting the the bleed valve and that air that came out when it got hot and expanded and there fore pushed its way out. you can jack the drivers side up higher and that will get some of it out your system sounds fine

Yes every thing seems good wih flow, the bleed valve, I asume you are refuring to the bolt on the balance pipe above the throttle bodies, then no that should be opened when cold and gravity will bleed the system

could it be just a bad batch off fuel you picked up ? I ask cause you said you only noticed it after putting in new fuel

yeah no worries it was just a suggestion, there is a gap between the bonnent and grill, it is that air that is getting redirected, but like I said just a suggestion. every time I look at the two engine bay photos I am amased at the difference, it looks soooo much cleaner and more organised

I missed you have a 65mm radiator on it, the problem with the skylines and big radiators is the inlet and outlet are on the same side of the radiator, so the thicker you go with the radiator then the less it spreads across the top and the more in goes in-down-out. don't worry about bearing as the oil takes care of them, and as Jez said who needs cooling, the water cooling for the turbos is more to stop heat soaking from the exhaust side to the compressor then anything else.

there is nothing wrong with changing the FPR, way go to the expense of injectors if a FPR will "fix it" if it doesn't need them, ie if it is getting to 99% duty cycle and the op isn't going higher with power then way not just do the FPR and give himself some headroom and save some coins, other then "it's not the right way to do it" cause the higher ressure will also help atomisation

although joels wording is rough he is right, there is no direct path of flow for the turbos they have a banjo fitting on the side off the block, which when the thermastat is closed is a closed system with the water circulating around the block through the head a around again, so the flow of water for the turbos comes from the water getting hotter in that closed system faster then the water outside it there fore expanding faster to and then pushing through the turbos around the thermastat to the top radiator hose where the pressure/ heat is less, then when the thermastst opens the pressure changes and the water changes direction and gets pulled back into the block in a see sawing manner, if the its not getting hot and the temp is fairly consestent then I don't see a problem, but either start the car with radiator cap off and watch, when it gets hot and the thermastat opens the water will flow past the cap. when that happens give it a rev from the throttle cable and the water should fluctuate in the radiator, less will only happen at or near full operating temp just cause you have been on here for a while doesn't mean you know anything, and how do you know what joel does for a living just cause he is new to SkylinesAustralia doesn't mean anything about his knowledge of cars, so get off your high horse and think about what someone writes and see if it is correct. but by all means if the op wants to go to the expense of changing the thermastat and pump off bad advise he got off a computer then go right ahead

It was serviced with a clean bill of heath, then a few things to look at, if the pods are HKS, change em quickly, check what cat it has and maybe change it to a good metal cat if it is the compliance still in there, then cam gears make a good difference, change the plugs to a 0.8 gap and reset the computer

looks awsome massive difference and I love the colour on the cam covers, but do your car a favour and remove the air spliter from the radiator as all it does is redirects the air from the top hole between your grill and bonnet away from the radiator

1.6 60ft is quick, especially considering your on 19s, my R34 GTR ran 11.8 @ 118mph with 297awkw with -7s on the factory rims and 1.8 60ft. what capacity is your engine, -10s are pretty slow to respond between gears on a 2.6

thought I saw it some where

ok, yeah haven't seen it poor op,if i'm correct he asked how to make the best of this set, NOT should he run GT-RSs or not and instead of people helping him out he gets hammered with GT-RSs are crap or go single, people should be ashamed I will say this big duration low lift cams are not the way to go, these turbos need backpressure between the turbo and engine, so the less overlap the better, and as little as possible out side the turbo, higher static comp ratio will help to by loading up motor better, I am also cleaning/smothing the exhaust ports aswell as a minimium, 3" dump pipes to a 4" exhaust would also be a minimium after that remember how they went on so it will be easier to change them to something not garret. I am still going to use them as it is a street car and the steep ramp rate will make it feel fast for a mates

oh ok, doesn't say engine or chassis dyno so I couldn't tell, though he has posted some where 533wkw in the 33 with -10s.