XKLABA

don't worry about me I'm just shit stirring I don't move the car till the water temp needle moves and with the setup on my 32 I can get full boost (16psi) by 2800rpm so even light throttle gives me boost This is some good advice I am just going to add some stuff

is it the whole diff you need or the crown and pinion gears, if whole diff upgrade to something like the quafe, if its just the crown and pinion I'm happy to post to you

I pulled the restrictor out of my 32 the week I brought it, 10 years ago, a year after that I fitted a boost controller and have run 15-16 psi since for daily driving with the occasional spurt at 19psi, have replaced the first set cause the bearings went the stock ecu will run 19psi and on which I ran 11.9 driving style will kill turbos faster then the boost level run

where are you located, i have a 32 front diff I am about to pull apart to change to 3.55s for my 34 build

??? is heathcote a bit gripless

go the evc6, I had a turbosmart eboost and it was to slow to catch how fast the car would come on boost and would go into warning mode and turn off boost, I tried everything I could then gave it to CRD and still would do it, so I put a HKS EVC in and straight away it worked properly and no more issues

how long is a piece of string ? I regularly run 19psi but only for very short periods, dyno power run or drags, no burnouts and 15/16psi for the rest of the time including trackdays, but I never do burnouts or powerskids where boost is on full for any length of time and this has been the norm for 10years and two sets of turbos, first set was replaced cause the bearings were gone and the wheels were scraping the housings this is in my 93 model R32 GTR

thats good to hear. going slowly, finally got the oil pump last week and now trying to figure out how I'm going to do the external feed to it and keep the aircon. otherwise all thats left after that is the harmonic balancer, electric oil pump and the braided lines for turbos,breathers,pump and cooler. still a ways off yet hahaha yeah texi, not this one unfortunately but was going to PM you about maybe helping out, but won;t know till closer to the day. wanting on a answer about a job in Gladstone

just finished reading the thread ( holy shit, frikin awesome build ) and your drawing the line at shocks ? really ?

If you remove the swivel from the bottom that will leave a smooth surface and if your lucky enough it will fit straight in, if not you could make a sleeve you would have to measure it all and see but something to think about

ya both wrong, I sure you'll find its 97cm, 97mm is the required flamage to make sure the thermostat housing has sealed properly

rear steering, I removed the whole thing right to the pump including the pump wheel, about 25kgs inside sound deadening, 9kgs, not worth the effort on a 1400+kg car and makes the car horribly noisy to drive on the street

I've done 11.1 @123mph with 293rwkw, so no traction and 119mph is pretty good and with good tyres and some practice you should get deep into the 11s is that with 365rwkw

this, but I still prefer a stand alone unit, I use HKS EVCs

had a quick skim, great write up, just another option for the spigot bearing removal soak some cardboard in water and then pack it in the same as you suggested with the grease and with a drift ( or an old input shaft which is what I use ) that fits tightly in give it a good bang, has worked for me half a dozen times in both the 32 and 34

have you got a proper electric boost controller

yeah the 2530s are a bit "bigger" then -5s nowhere near as big as -10s, or GT-RSs -10s are very similar to GT-RSs, just a diff comp housing I think

nah just zip tie the mouth of the timing light open and hold it against the front of No1 coil, works fine, as Jez said the "timing loop" can show upto a 15deg change in actual timing I know if I check the timing on my two GTRs before they are full temp they can read up to 27deg adv at idle, depending on how cold they are, so full op temp before you check it having said that if the car was/has been tuned like it is then put it back how you found it and ask the tuner next time its tuned

cam gears, boost controller ( get a good japanese one ), -9s turbos, front pipes ( the stock 33 dumps are good at that level but the a good set like the CES ones will give a bit more and since you'll be there any way), Z32 AFMs ( get the apex'i pod kit to suit ), 600cc+ injectors, nismo pump and a PFC then a tune open up the out let of the stock manifolds when fitting turbos this with 19-20psi will see you clear of 300rwkw this is basiclly the setup I had on my R34 ( I had -7s, stock AFMs and airbox ) and on 19psi it it made 312rwkw

I had heard a rumour about 18 months ago about a preposed track at nowra, suppost to be an old air field already brought with money made from selling oran park, but this is the first I have heard sence so who knows. would be awsome though a track at nowra, alot closer the wakie or marulan and possibly from the same people responsible for oran park, brilliant

oh yeah that $500 included clean and grub screwed oil galleries

I had one supplied and fitted and crank bearings machined for $500 + balance

My 34 did this, I got a big flat rubber washer and stuck it in the lid so it ended up between lid and bottle and that seems to have fixed it, in the 34, I'll asume the 33 is the same,there is 3 groves in the lid to let air in and out and they still work with the washer inplace

hahaha, they will let anyone join ha