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It doesn't have a "K" on them anywhere, the Falkens have a 200 treadwear, the AD08s on my 32 have 180 treadwear and the difference between the RTs and AD08s is unbelievable, but what you pay for AD08s new you would be better off getting the Federals Duncan mentioned earlier

mine was bottom of no2 as well, very strange, atleast you've found it and shouldn't be to hard to fix

are you sure I though it was a definite yes

location might help you?

yes

I have these on my 34 wheels and are rubbish, worst tyre I've put on a track, worse then my Bridgestone Adrenalines

try here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/268134-r33-gtst-active-lsd-information/

This is exactly what happened to my 32, and is why I suggested the brake cleaner as it doesn't leave any residue and will change the idle if there is a leak

on what side of gods good green earth is getting hit that far back on the passengers side of your car in a round about your fault, f**king sucks to be a red P plater, I would've fought that one, atleast sent a letter with pics to the SDRO stating your case, ringing never works your mate under age or criminal record ? how the f**k does not wearing you P plate pose a risk to anyone, certainly not enough to warrant two freakn points, I not once wore my Ps, but back then it was a $58 dollar fine

the only difference between 32/33 and 34 cams is timing and the CAS key, otherwise identical and heads are the same right through try spraying brake cleaner around the intake runner on number 2 and see if the idle changes, try compression test with throttle closed as well as open have you tried changing the CAS, but generally if you have fuel-compression-spark then you should not have a problem, so interesting, hope you find it keep us posted

I think you'll find he had it as a single setup on a RB25, so yes VERY responsive

Adjusted, Fixed seens a bit incorrect and impolite as you are right, unfortunately I'd say you are going to have to fork out for a good EBC, preferably with stepper motor, as it will help keep the wastegate shut longer and help the turbos ramp up quicker, also by reducing the overlap of the cams it will let the motor make better use of what boost it gets and load motor up better which in turn turns turbos quicker, aswell by adjust when the exhaust valves shut will force the air out through the turbos instead of letting the exhaust pressure back into the engine

33 wheels are 17x9 +30, 34 wheels are 18x9 +30, I had my 34 wheels on my 32 for a while with 255/40/18 tyres and no problems, fitted quite well actually, the normal wheels on my 32 are 18x9 +22 with 265/35/18 and they don't scrub either

tyre diameter differences are easiest explained by explaining how the numbers on the tyres work 275/35/19 as example 275 is the tread width in mm, 35 is the tyre wall height which is 35% of the tyres width, and 19 is the recommended rim size so 275/35/19 is 275mm width, 275 x 35% = 96.25mm wall height, so 19 inchs is 482.6 + ( 96.25 x 2 ) = 675.1 and 255/35/19, 255mm width, 255 x 35% = 89.55mm wall height, 482.6 + ( 89.55 x 2 ) = 661.7 so going from a 275 to 255 in the same profile and rim size gives a difference of 13.4mm in tyre diameter

$50 for the crank

I have the ATI balancer on my 32 and it turn a steering belt inside out ? but left it in place at texi a while back, not a problem I have ever had before, though when I line up the two wheels it looks like the P/S wheel on the balancer is 2-3mm forward of the pump one I am looking at the Ross one with the trigger gear on it for the 30 build I'm doing so interested to see am answer/solution also

See if you can organize some to grab this for you and send it over http://www.ebay.com....=item4ab19d4f69 Taller diff gears on a high powered RB30 are a good idea, lowers wheel spin, reduces gear changes and generally takes better advantage of the extra torque, especially on a RWD car the 4.3 ratios were for the RB20 GTS4 with 154kw and 265nm, the R32 and 33 GTRs have 4.11 with a RB26 and 206kw with 368nm of torque, so 3.9s or even 3.55s on a RB30 with 400fwkw and lets say 600+nm is only logical, my opinion

as I said once I stopped driving it on a daily basis it became a problem, if I left it for a week it was flat, this doesn't happen with a the lead acid battery for about a month. as for the Odyssey batterys going flat, the supplier told me that is normal for them as they are a deep cycle battery so either drive the car more frequently or get a charger and charge it before I want to drive it so for a second or even third car they are not ideal so I stand by my previous statement, rubbish and add expensive rubbish I get about 5-6 years out of all my lead acid batterys and at about 1/3rd the cost I know what I'd rather as for legality of a lead acid battery in the boot, it is fine in a GTR ( I have only looked into it for a GTR so is probable the same for other cars ) because there is a solid divider between the boot and cabin, where an issue arises is when they are put in a hatch where it is just a parcel shelf seperating you from the fumes created from it charging as you drive, aswell as that the 33 and 34 GTRs ,as you would know owning a 34, have the lead acid battery in the boot from the factory and 2 that is why they must be solidly mounted but more so it doesn't short out on the car body then incase of fire from it leaking why go to the expense of the dry cell battery and a trickle charger when a lead acid will do the job as good for a fraction of the cost

ah yes black pepper would help but if you go with that you would also need rock salt for its solidifying effect....... and as its salt AND pepper anyway way not

rims look good mate, big improvement

I have a easier test then buying one from bursons If you go to the fridge and grab a egg or two then throw them in the radiator and start the car, wait for it to get to op temp then go to the exhaust pipe, if it smells like poached eggs then gasket is goneski

I'll second the rubbish call, replaced it with a normal battery and never looked back

yeah you could, you would just put the left one where the measure marks put it then put the other one in a similar place on the other side ( you just have to make sure the belt won't hit the CAS bracket ), then get a old 26 belt cut it then run it around everything so the two end end up on one of the cam gears and count the teeth in between the two ends then search for a belt to suit this sit is a good place to start to find a belt http://seekpart24.com/search?am=audi&c=100404

Normal for the Odyssey to self discharge, I had one for a while then I got a work ute and the car would sit around for 5-7days and the battery would go flat, and as much as they are a deep cycle they can only do it a few time before they died for ever, I would suggest a isolation switch if the car is going to sit around for a lenght of time even if you put a normal battery in it you can get one from autobarn or the like that goes on the battery terminal and you just have to turn the knob and it disengages

1) I put the Walbro in my 32, was a simple process and basically a bolt in, you just have to run a wire from battery ( I went from the alternator ) to the plug in the top of the tank, the walbro needs more voltage to work it best 2) As SiR_RB said, which is why I suggested the Apex'i kit, they have one that adapts to the Z32s and is what I have on the 32 and made a massive difference over the HKS pods I took off ( they where modified to suit the 80mm Z32s ) The setup on my 34 was a really good street combo, PFC, 600cc injectors with nismo FPR and nismo pump, -7s ( though after seeing Seans 34 with -9s I say go the -9s ), full exhuast ( though since you have a 33 just do from the dumps back, 80mm cat and 3.5 inch back ) cam gears set for response ( I had poncams but not necessary ) I had stock AFMs with the stock airbox, if you where going to put a stock airbox then I would say Nismo AFMs but if your happy with pods then get the Apex'i kit and the 80mm AFMs, with that it made 310+rwkw on 19-20psi