XKLABA

. just throwing it out there

Dave posted saying he knows how to "fix it" and he does, last time I was at Enique I was shown why they don't work when not submerged and it is a quick simple thing to fix, shot Dave a pm and I sure he would be willing to explain it, he is a really nice guy if you don't make yourself come across as a f**k stick

looks stock and 470rwkw+, sounds like a challange I to am building a 30 with RSs ( though was looking for T618ZS ) and was aiming for 450, though I have seen a couple of poeple on this forum make 500rwkw+ from RSs Dealing with the backpressure from the mismatched wheels when the exhaust valve opens is , I think, the key to making then work Lets face it if you want 450rwkw+ that looks stock then pretty much your only option is RSs or T618Zs

can you do any smaller then 1mm ?

just a quick Q, wouldn't a comp test give you dynamic comp ratio and not static?

maaaate that is a clean car, I really like the rear bar extension, very subtle

I forgot about that, you still have shipping, stamp duty and GST, so probably closer to $8k, plus labour is the whole motor gone or is it just the head and gasket, if it's just the head buy a second hand one with a gasket and put it back together, if it's the whole thing then it depends on how much you want to spend and how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. if your happy with how much power the car had before buy a motor of ebay, there on there for between $3000 and $4500, and drop it in. if your chasing more power, pick a number and build it to that, no point spending $20,000 on a motor to take 1500hp and only run 600hp, on the same note don't spend $5000 on a motor to take 600hp and try a push 1500hp through it

thats about what my 3.0 is upto so far, you will spend $5k+ returning to stock or spend the extra while its apart and have it alot stronger and then you are only paying extra for parts as labour should be the same ether way from memory the BC 2.9 was between $5500 and $6000 for the kit, which is the way I'd go if I did it again

diffuser is $4000 new, bonnet is $8000 new not painted, nice car, this is the colour I wanted but instead I got the bayside blue v-spec II for a great price

isn't that the head? the main studs from ARP have the same part number for 20, 25, 26 and 30

As i say "If it isn't broke don't fix it, if it brakes fix it properly" look for BC0239

yeah still going with the same set up I was going with when we talked at texi

yeah now Gregs got his hands on it it will get moving. god I hope so, been waiting for Sutton just hope the turbs aren't going to negate the benefit of the stroke ps thank for the help the other night

nah,justjap have the 150 tooth belt I want to use the 152 tooth, it's ok greg has a spare he can use to line up the idler wheel

just kicking around and found this info and thought i would share the dayco 94407 timing belt used for the rb30det hybrid builds is from a Mazda 323 1.7ltr PN diesel 85-93 that makes a whopping 57hp

did you weld the top too for strength, I would also try and weld some tabs on top to help. The idea is good but you are trying to weld to cast, was something I thought of doing but was advised against and brought the platinum adapter instead, so am very interested how this turns out

+1, in before you get if you haven't got something nice to say or genuine question, piss off and look at a different car

hahahaha mine, click the link at bottom

the 32 gtr and 34 gtr do not so I'd guess not, I just found the wires to the tank, ran a hose from the fuel filter to a jerry can, and put voltage to the pump and pumped it out

you can have ant gearset done not just oem and it would help strengthen ezy_09s, there is a place at Silverdale I was recommended for my excavator teeth, try google a see if they come up

or behind on payments ? or lost job and needs money ? or can get more from insurance then selling it ? oh thats what Terry was saying

gen stock has 8 small fins/blades where the N1 has 6 bigger fins/blades with a plate closing the back to help stop cavitation,having both in hand I can't see how the stock one flows more. I wonder how many people with an issue have put on a big thick radiator, which is not a good idea on any skyline, or a non genuine pump

if your a bambling man you could see if the three 10mm bolts that go through the head into the block go in ok, ifso then you could assume the head is straight, I'd pull it a part, getting the head off is not that hard just might need a head gasket

three nismos should fix any fuel supply problems